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Rebuild about done

Thanks guys. The starter is one from Autozone. I'm wondering if my son used the wrong bolts when he installed it. I know I had everything lableled. He knows to install that little bracket on the end of the starter. I told him if he doesn't it will crack the block with the starter weight. I better double check.
 
It's not just the weight of the starter, it's the shear torque when spinning the engine over. my poor rig is living proof of what can happen. luckily it's still running. PO didn't use the bracket can broke the block. he had it welded up and rethreaded, when I had to go in and replace my flexplate I discovered the weld repair along with the starter bolts that had bent. lol when I unbolted the starter, the starter was dancing back and fourth as I turned the bolt. I had the bracket in place then as well but it had sheared off the stud on the starter too!

I recently went in with the powermaster starter and cut down a piece of angle iron to make a beefier bracket to help contain the twerking starter .
 
Just got the truck back from the shop with a new flexplate and starter. Trying to set the TDCO with no luck. When the truck is running TDCO reads 0. When I turn it on it runs rough dies and then reads 2.02. No matter how far we move the pump either direction this is the same reading. Obviously we turn it too far and it wont start. Under current codes we get 88 TDCO Error. Under history it gives 74 - Trans input speed sensor circuit, 88 - TDCO, 86 Low ratio error, 85 undefined ratio error. Even though I clear the codes these are the same ones that keep coming back. Any thoughts?
 
Rodd said:
Just got the truck back from the shop with a new flexplate and starter. Trying to set the TDCO with no luck. When the truck is running TDCO reads 0. When I turn it on it runs rough dies and then reads 2.02. No matter how far we move the pump either direction this is the same reading. Obviously we turn it too far and it wont start. Under current codes we get 88 TDCO Error. Under history it gives 74 - Trans input speed sensor circuit, 88 - TDCO, 86 Low ratio error, 85 undefined ratio error. Even though I clear the codes these are the same ones that keep coming back. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...
Bad ground. Someones dog pooped in the soil creating bad ground. 🤷‍♂️
Other than that IDK.
 
MrMarty51 said:
Bad ground. Someones dog pooped in the soil creating bad ground. 🤷‍♂️
Other than that IDK.
Click to expand...
My son just said that he said he's pretty sure which ground it is. The previous owner splice together a ground wire and he looked at it but didn't think anything of it till now. Probably where it's at. Unfortunately the intake has to come off.
Thanks Marty.
 
once you get rid of the other codes besides code 88 then you can start the timing set procedure. start off by disconnecting the batteries for a minimum of 30 seconds. I would go 5 minutes, then reconnect and only do a key on not start it. check for any codes to see if they come back.

if you have a scribe mark on the IP to move it back to a base starting point, then move it there and just cinch down the top nut to hold the IP. leave the bottom two loose. you can run the engine without the intake installed but I would say install the lower portion so you can use a board or something to kill it in case of a run away condition. make dam sure there is no fuel leaks or any loose things that had the potential to get sucked into the intake.

keep the upper intake nearby to connect the sensors that are on it so not to get any codes for them but far enough out of the way so you can manually kill the engine.

fire it up with the scanner connected and verify no codes still. run it till it's fully warmed up (at least 170 degrees minimum. then proceed with the TDCO procedure. this process can be hell but there is a trick to it. there are two modes for setting TDCO. one is to trigger the time set. then look at the data value "Actual Injection Timing" the reading is in degrees. you want to see 3.0 to 3.5 degrees while idling fully warm. if you see a different reading FULL STOP. shut off the engine and move the IP just a little. (remember moving it 1mm is like changing 3 degrees or so) very fine movements. snug it up and try again. start it up and once fully warm, trigger the set timing. Once you get the actual injection timing as close as possible to 3-3.5 degrees (it will bounce around a little but stay relatively on that number) then trigger the learn on the scanner. that should get you in the ball park. you might see it error out with code 88, but watch the TDCO numbers as it's trying to learn. if you see it stay on a positive number then you can stop and slightly move the IP one direction, too far negative move it the opposite direction very slightly. I forget which way changes the numbers which direction but I know others will help.

Just remember this process is slow, painful, and frustrating at times. just take it slow and with lots of patience.

Oh, and whatever you do, DO NOT MOVE THE IP WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING!!

BTW are you using a tech2 or GMDTscan to do this?
 
dbrannon79 said:
once you get rid of the other codes besides code 88 then you can start the timing set procedure. start off by disconnecting the batteries for a minimum of 30 seconds. I would go 5 minutes, then reconnect and only do a key on not start it. check for any codes to see if they come back.

if you have a scribe mark on the IP to move it back to a base starting point, then move it there and just cinch down the top nut to hold the IP. leave the bottom two loose. you can run the engine without the intake installed but I would say install the lower portion so you can use a board or something to kill it in case of a run away condition. make dam sure there is no fuel leaks or any loose things that had the potential to get sucked into the intake.

keep the upper intake nearby to connect the sensors that are on it so not to get any codes for them but far enough out of the way so you can manually kill the engine.

fire it up with the scanner connected and verify no codes still. run it till it's fully warmed up (at least 170 degrees minimum. then proceed with the TDCO procedure. this process can be hell but there is a trick to it. there are two modes for setting TDCO. one is to trigger the time set. then look at the data value "Actual Injection Timing" the reading is in degrees. you want to see 3.0 to 3.5 degrees while idling fully warm. if you see a different reading FULL STOP. shut off the engine and move the IP just a little. (remember moving it 1mm is like changing 3 degrees or so) very fine movements. snug it up and try again. start it up and once fully warm, trigger the set timing. Once you get the actual injection timing as close as possible to 3-3.5 degrees (it will bounce around a little but stay relatively on that number) then trigger the learn on the scanner. that should get you in the ball park. you might see it error out with code 88, but watch the TDCO numbers as it's trying to learn. if you see it stay on a positive number then you can stop and slightly move the IP one direction, too far negative move it the opposite direction very slightly. I forget which way changes the numbers which direction but I know others will help.

Just remember this process is slow, painful, and frustrating at times. just take it slow and with lots of patience.

Oh, and whatever you do, DO NOT MOVE THE IP WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING!!

BTW are you using a tech2 or GMDTscan to do this?
Click to expand...
GMTD. I have done it many times with my OBD2 trucks. This is my first with OBD1. I wasn't even thinking of doing the adjustments to get it to 3 - 3.5 before doing the TDCO. I was seeing 8.0 degrees of timing. Thanks!
 
Started looking at grounds and noticed that the fuel metering solenoid wiring on the IP is different than on my 98 suburban. I have attached a pic of it. There is a red wire spliced to it. There is a spare the previous owner had on the truck as well that is the same. Can anyone tell me why? I have a couple of them for my 98 that are 2 wire between the plug and the solenoid. I tried them ant the truck wouldn't start but it does with the spliced wire. The other end of the spliced wire goes no where. ?????
 

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I am suspecting the PO had some wiring issues or made his own anti-theft device. connect a volt meter between the two OE wires going to the solenoid. with the key on there should be 12 v on one and ground on the other.
 
That's a good
dbrannon79 said:
I am suspecting the PO had some wiring issues or made his own anti-theft device. connect a volt meter between the two OE wires going to the solenoid. with the key on there should be 12 v on one and ground on the other.
Click to expand...
Thought but why wouldn't my regular one work? It could be bad obviously. I do remember when I bought it there was a red wire ging to a black box the previous owner said was a high altitude something or other. It may have plugged into that.
 
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