ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
I think you need a couple more vehicles in there LoL. I'm envious of that much space.
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Project Frankensquare
- Thread starter n8in8or
- Start date
SnowDrift
Ultra Conservative. ULTRA!
How did you get the blue and silver Tahoe over there on the lift?
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
I have read articles of people converting the C frames to K frames by adding the leaf spring mounts for the front axle to the C frames. I doubt that they knew that such a difference existed.
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
I slid the whole hoist and truck across the floor in the lowered position using my tractor.
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
Yeah, you can buy brackets that will bolt in place of the 2wd core support mounts, but so far that appears to be the easy part…..installing the 4wd crossmember and motor mounts are going to be the hard part - now I will say, this is an optional step for a 4wd conversion, especially if it’s lifted, but that’s how I wanted to do mine, so I’m causing myself more grief than necessary…….as usual…….
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
Once I get past the Frankensquare, I can get back to the red truck. It would sure be nice to not have that taking up space in here. Then on to the original Tahoe…..
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Would anyone know where to find such bolt on brackets? I would love to get rid of my coil spring front end and use the torsion bar setup that the 4x4's and newer rigs use. I wouldn't go through the complete conversion though, just the front suspension system. there is so much more you can get and do with that style.
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
GMT400 (88-98) is a different ball of wax. What I was referring to are the brackets like these that ORD makes for the squarebody trucks.
2WD to 4WD Main Eye Conversion Brackets for '81-87 ('91) GM Trucks, Pair
2WD to 4WD Main Eye Conversion Brackets for '81-87 ('91) GM Trucks, Pair NOTE: Does not work with stock bumper bracket
The GMT400 frames are totally different for 2wd and 4wd, your best bet is to do an SAS (solid axle swap) in that case. ORD also makes parts for that.
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
At this point I probably never will, just to spite youAnd then, finally, finishing up the skid steer?
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
Nah, you know it will always be nagging at you in the back of your mind as the project you never finished! Remember, you bought and started rebuilding it to rebuild your retaining wall - which you've already rebuilt with with other equipmeny you got, because the skid steer wasn't done! You'll wake up in the middle of the night from nightmares of the skid steer calling to you, "Na-ate. Na-ate. Finish me! Na-ate!"At this point I probably never will, just to spite you
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
That skid steer will always be in the back of all out minds. 
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
I got the radiator support/front spring hangers installed first. Those were easy to locate because I found a common hole at the front of the frame horn on both frames, and that hole lined up with the support strap on the inside of the rail. I lined that up and then opened up the existing holes in the rails with a die grinder.
Once that was done I could bolt the bracket to the frame and use transfer punches to locate the other holes. Pretty straightforward.
Once those holes were in place, I could use those to find the hole locations for the first two crossmembers. The first crossmember needed some trimming to fit because the 2wd frame bumps in at that location and the 4wd frame does not. I got it all in place on the bottom, but I need to make some 1/2” spacers for the top so it can attach up there…..however, I’m going to wait to do any of that until I get the frame mods for the motor mounts figured out.
The motor mount brackets need the frame rails to be 1/2” taller….this will be the next challenge I tackle.
Once that is done, then I need to make the holes for the rear spring hangers for the front springs and then the frame will be a 4wd frame.
Once that was done I could bolt the bracket to the frame and use transfer punches to locate the other holes. Pretty straightforward.
Once those holes were in place, I could use those to find the hole locations for the first two crossmembers. The first crossmember needed some trimming to fit because the 2wd frame bumps in at that location and the 4wd frame does not. I got it all in place on the bottom, but I need to make some 1/2” spacers for the top so it can attach up there…..however, I’m going to wait to do any of that until I get the frame mods for the motor mounts figured out.
The motor mount brackets need the frame rails to be 1/2” taller….this will be the next challenge I tackle.
Once that is done, then I need to make the holes for the rear spring hangers for the front springs and then the frame will be a 4wd frame.
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SnowDrift
Ultra Conservative. ULTRA!
I looked at the photos over and over trying to determine the method you used to accomplish that. This isn't a single one of the scenarios I ran through my mind.
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
Use a piece of ½" thick flat stock of the correct width and slightly longer than the mount as the spacer?
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Where you said:
The motor mount brackets need the frame rails to be 1/2” taller….this will be the next challenge I tackle.
What about cutting down the top of the mount bracket. Then just weld a piece of flat steel across the new top height. If you have 1/4” plate steel, cut out 3/4” in height. Weld it on, then it will fit. Basically cut where I drew the red line.
The motor mount brackets need the frame rails to be 1/2” taller….this will be the next challenge I tackle.
What about cutting down the top of the mount bracket. Then just weld a piece of flat steel across the new top height. If you have 1/4” plate steel, cut out 3/4” in height. Weld it on, then it will fit. Basically cut where I drew the red line.
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
Wouldn't that DROP the height of the top of the motor mount bracket and thus also drop the height of the motor ½" and then cause turbo down tube to frame clearance issues, as well as probably engine to front differential/steering linkage clearance issues, too?
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
That was my thought, but I wanted to wait until after I address what I need to do for the motor mount brackets before I commit to anything. Overnight I was playing around with the idea of pancaking the frame rail right there so it would match up with the crossmember.....probably more work than its worth, but I'm still chewing on it.
That would be easier, but my concern from the start has been having the frame rails close to the correct places so when I make the turbo system, what I come up with will work for anyone else's 4wd squarebody. Maybe 1/2" is a bit too anal and the reward I get is offset by slicing and dicing the frame rail...... Hmm, maybe...... The other C30 frame that I bought already converted, that was their solution - they whacked off the top of the brackets so they would fit, only they didn't then add a flange to the top of the brackets so they weren't bolted to the top of the rails.
The bottom rail is what sets the height of the engine in the frame, so modifying the bracket won't change how high the engine is sitting. What it will do though is move the top of the frame rail further from the manifold, which will falsely give me more room than I would normally have. Of course, since I'm building this truck, I will know that I have that extra 1/2" and so I just need to keep than in mind while building the turbo system.
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
I decided to take the path of least resistance and modify the motor mount brackets rather than the frame rails. Actually, I grabbed the already cut ones from the other C30 rather than cut up the intact ones. They were cut crudely with a torch. Here I had already started grinding on one of them before I remembered to snap some pics.
I cut some 3/16” plate and welded it to the top of each mount. All that’s left to do is drill holes in the top through both the rails and brackets, but I ran out of time tonight.
I cut some 3/16” plate and welded it to the top of each mount. All that’s left to do is drill holes in the top through both the rails and brackets, but I ran out of time tonight.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
I think it’s a wise choice. And if you really want to build a system that would work with the taller frame to help others with it- just a piece of cardboard mock up to show how things clear.