As I stated previously the pump only had maybe 1000 miles on it just not enough fuel so I just sent it to them and said do what you can to get me more fuel but use my .350 head and rotor instead of the .310 plunger head and rotor that you usually use. Then after I paid the invoice it stated no warranty on the head & rotor since it I supplied it. I thought I posted the flow numbers that they gave me earlier but here they are again. Let me know if you can't see them.So what did you have done to this pump this time? And what was the reason for no warranty on the work? and did they ever tell you what they did and what amount of fuel they claim it would deliver?
The P pump can be built on the kitchen table there is no shortage of parts and exotic internals too.I would probably had much better results with a Bosch P pump warranty, but I guess it would not have needed to be modified, So it looks like Fellow Traveler has made the correct decision.
I feel the pain . . .Sorry, I guess I'm just hating on the 6.5s right now.
Pump builder ought to simply insist you run the pop pressure they built the pump for. I had them build me an injector set with their recommended pop pressure. Even on the bent up valve (very low compression) engine of mine it started way easier than the PIA to start high pop pressure injectors I ran. What does easier starting tell you about how much harder the pump has to work with high pop injectors? It also needed more advance on three (3) separate pumps to run without smoking white. The other pumps appeared 'worn out' with hard hot start problems. All because of the FBomb high pop injectors I thought was a good idea to run. I learned the hard way: it's not a good idea anymore on the "ULSD" we have now.I think it is just dumping fuel in the #1 and #8 cyl, most likely not enough pressure from the IP to atomize the fuel is my thinking. The pump builder will most likely tell me that I have the injector pop pressures set to high which they are set @ 2250 PSI the pump builder recommends the pop pressures to be 1700 but I think that is just too low.
Not talking about a Aux fuel tank feeding the main tank here: just the idea to use an adaptor in the fuel filler that an aux tank would use for a fuel "return"."I maybe missing something here as I suffer from "some-timers" but I transfer fuel from my aux tank exactly into the main tanks fuel fill as I drive for many years now and never ever had such an issue? So why would the small fuel return cause an issue? Lest we forget the fuel gets sloshed around the tank and surely air bubbles do form unless foam or bronze wool are incorporated into the tank like in a fuel cell.
Nope, you've got an apples and oranges thing here. Pushing fuel back to the tank from the LP vs the designed fuel return system post IP. I'm late to the thread, but he did say 'from the LP.'
FWIW: School of hard knocks advice on air here.If you have a dedicated regulator that has a return/bypass line off of it you don't have to worry about it siphoning off when it sits overnight. You can also have it feed into the filler neck with no issues. I have a system setup like that on my stepside. Can sit for months and have no issues.
The other nice thing about a full flow bypass is the pump can run flat our and the engine just pulls what it needs.
It's 550 PSI over what Conestoga Diesel is recommending for whatever magic they do. Just to get the flow numbers maybe? Stock 6.2 pumps sure don't like the high-pops I ran. I forget what popular high-pop number I was running offhand.2250 psi is not really that high. I will be building a set here soon at 3200 psi or higher. The only downside is no hot starts,if the head and rotor are worn.
I haven't played with high pop injectors at all, my pump builder is dead set against it for the pumps I have built. My injectors are set @ 2100 for the high output DB pumps.. maybe because it causes stress inside the pumps, I haven't investigated it, he says more volume @ 2100 than higher pop..2250 psi is not really that high. I will be building a set here soon at 3200 psi or higher. The only downside is no hot starts,if the head and rotor are worn.