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OBD I chip/eprom who what where when and how

Drago, your EGR is vacuum-controlled... when you plugged the hole int he intake, did you put everything back together, including the vac lines? The light should work off sensing the vacuum in the line when the system comes active. If it is open, it won't build up vacuum.

I think... n/a 's' code engines aren't my area of expertise.
 
I need to apoligize for aiding in the resurrection of a controversy here. Definitely not my intention to cause trouble.

It's ok, Jeff. Or Jim. Can't remember which, mes amis, sorry.

The point here is that we've always been able to talk about stuff without getting censored or having posts deleted. No direct links, no selling through PMs or under the table, as Leroy said, those rules protect the vendors without stifling exchange of information. Sometimes, people don't appreciate that fine distinction, but it's nonetheless true. That we're talking about it is evidence enough; this whole thread might get deleted otherwise.

.....and Dennis, we are not aware that you are or were or might be banned from the other site. One thing however, all references to the ATT have been replaced with ***. Kind of a joke really, many have come up with nick-names, when discussing it.

Actually, he's been banned since very early in that thread, so that he (or anybody else) was unable to speak to the other side of what was rapidly becoming a very one-sided discussion. In a land so gung-ho about free speech, that little indiscretion went apparently un-noticed.

And if you're looking for a nice Canadian euphemism, try 'EH-Team Turbo' :D

DZZ71 said:
I have the 6 tune buddy chip and it works great.

Yep, I bet it does; Buddy did good work, from all accounts. However, that chip isn't sold by any of our site vendors. Neither is Heath's, Kennedy's, or Westers, although all of them have their good points. Feel free to call any of them up; although they won't be selling them here, I imagine they will still deal with you.

If KOJO is still selling through Walking-J, then anybody interested might try looking there:

http://walkingjdesigns.myshopify.com/.
 
My vacuum pump isn't working, I checked it yesterday, I get about 2InHg and believe it's suppose to be 20Hg. I checked it rght at the pump. I looked at the chart and the only thing the vac is used for is the emissions stuff. they don't check for that stuff here in Va, not yet anyway. I removed the EGR hoping to help with mileage and wear and tear on the engine. the manifold has a heavy coat of nasty soot in it. letting the EGR put more in doesn't look like a good idea. so I put a freeze plug and a plate over the port.
 
okay now.. put in your sig if it is an auto, or a stick....

diesels are all about air and fuel... when you add one, the other needs to be adjusted as well...so first thing, is it the factory exhaust? if so, you will benefit from a free flowing exhaust, something like a 3" single exhaust, with a straight through muffler or 2.5" duals...

next thing is air intake... you need to find yourself a j-code intake without the egr,these are the best intakes for the N/A, with it you will see a huge increase over the c-code egr manifold... is the filter new? you will benefit from a K&N or equivalent performance air filter, and doing a cold air pick up.... you will find great pointers for all this stuff in the 6.2l section, as they are much the same as what you have....

finally fuel... you will benefit from turning up your pump some, maximum a 1/4 turn, but should have a pyrometer as well.... all three things mentioned (only with the 3" single exhaust) are steps towards turbo-ing your truck.... and one more thing, you need to go into the 6.2l section and read,read,read as all the info there will better serve you than most of the info here in the 6.5l "electronic" section...

KBC

If you have any more questions, post up in the 6.2L section or feel free to send us a PM. We ran two n/a trucks and are in the process of converting a Caprice to a n/a 6.5L also. You can confirm which injection pump you have (then list it also in sig), by looking at the drivers side of the pump in behind the throttle linkage. If it is the 5088 pump, you will have more than enough fuel delivery capability if one day you decide to turbo your truck.....
 
My vacuum pump isn't working, I checked it yesterday, I get about 2InHg and believe it's suppose to be 20Hg. I checked it rght at the pump. I looked at the chart and the only thing the vac is used for is the emissions stuff. they don't check for that stuff here in Va, not yet anyway. I removed the EGR hoping to help with mileage and wear and tear on the engine. the manifold has a heavy coat of nasty soot in it. letting the EGR put more in doesn't look like a good idea. so I put a freeze plug and a plate over the port.

OK, what did you do with the vacuum lines that used to run to it? There should have been a solenoid that controlled the vacuum from the pump, with a line that ran to your EGR valve. If that is all still intact, you need to plug the line and make sure everything (except the EGR valve) is still hooked up. I believe there is a sensor in the line, also, but maybe turbonator will chime in on this - like I said, it isn't my strong suit.
 
it was a hard plastic line that crumbled in my hands, I plugged in the vacuum gage to the pump itself and got 2inHg. It doesn't seem to run anything else. I hate thought of having to replace something that does nothing for me


I plugged all the open lines
 
Drago, maybe I missed it, what year is your truck? I have a "f" code intake i'd sell. Let me know.
 
I have the 6 tune buddy chip and it works great. He got me more power then heath"s chip did.

Keep in mind just because something feels like it's more powerful doesn't mean it actually is.

I can make my 98 feel like it's accelerating and shifting like a bat outta heck with a reflash, but it's actually slower than a nice and smooth program.

Not to mention, the "more powerful feeling" re-flash is hell on hard parts. Heck, I can get third gear rubber if I make a few tweaks (and I have gotten third rubber, pulled over and reflashed that one before I even went another foot) but kiss the 4l80e, u-joints and g80 goodbye...

It's hard to say what's better without quantifiable data.

"Butt dyno" doesn't cut it.

Not pointing fingers, just sayin' you need to keep a skeptical mind set when assessing this kind of stuff...
 
Guys, sorry to burst your bubble here but a 95 n/a does have a ds4 still. its just that th fueling is cut back a huge amount. so if he were to just do dual 2.5" exhaust and a EGRless intake he could make use of tuning to an extent.
 
Guys, sorry to burst your bubble here but a 95 n/a does have a ds4 still. its just that th fueling is cut back a huge amount. so if he were to just do dual 2.5" exhaust and a EGRless intake he could make use of tuning to an extent.

i will believe it when i see it... the OP has never posted pics, and we have seen tons and tons of trucks, both turbo and NA and never seen or heard of that....
 
We are supposed to be pouring cement in the block Christmas Day, will be starting a thread then.....:thumbsup:

Now.....back to topic.....

One more high jack.

That will be a cool build, PM me when you start a thread on it.
 
i will believe it when i see it... the OP has never posted pics, and we have seen tons and tons of trucks, both turbo and NA and never seen or heard of that....

what do you need a pic of? be more than glad to post it.

IMG_0223.jpg


319570_2630680451298_1383983954_33138458_907364827_n1.jpg
 
It looks like a Department of Holidays truck up top ... nice paint job for the bottom pic!

Open the hood, take a picture of your injection pump, and that'll stop the argument :)

(worth a thousand words, and all that jazz...)

I gotta admit, I figured it was a DB2 until I saw 1995 in your signature... but I don't think I've seen a '95 N/A around, either. Very curious!
 
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