bison
Well-Known Member
More than 1 way to skin a cat eh
You're a good man,.Thanks Jeff
That'll work yes, but asking on the site gives me a chance to interact with you folks,...i gets sometimes lonely being by myself in the bush
:hihi:
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O7 Dmax your thoughts
- Thread starter bison
- Start date
More than 1 way to skin a cat eh
:hihi:
tanman_2006
Just a farm kid...
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
More than 1 way to skin a cat eh
You're a good man,.Thanks Jeff
That'll work yes, but asking on the site gives me a chance to interact with you folks,...i gets sometimes lonely being by myself in the bush
I'll bet you were getting tired of me and my dad by the time we left LOL
bison
Well-Known Member
I'm still not recoveredokey:
okey:
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
that's why you don't spend as much time on here!! LOL
bison
Well-Known Member
Yep, that must be it!
bison
Well-Known Member
Well, the spare wheels got to go after all, there's 285 x 17 Wranglers on them and they've worn clean trough the ABS wires.
I found the inner fender liners are badly damaged and need replacing as well($65 a pop),..it is indeed an easy job to remove them and gives indeed lots of access to the engine.(not to impressed with these push buttons though)
The ECM ,is that that thingy bolted to the dr side batt box?
I found the inner fender liners are badly damaged and need replacing as well($65 a pop),..it is indeed an easy job to remove them and gives indeed lots of access to the engine.(not to impressed with these push buttons though)
The ECM ,is that that thingy bolted to the dr side batt box?
bison
Well-Known Member
I'm not to confident anymore if this truck was a good buy.
Been working on and off to go trough this truck.
Dug about 2 wheel barrels of gravel and dirt from out of the frame,and off the tranny,T-case,front diff, around the engine and everywhere else and that is after the initial car wash i did.(dirt still raining down with every tweak :mad2
Replaced the belt and the idlers, effed up the tread trying to remove one of them(bolt seized in the hole) had to go buy a tap to chase the treads.
I cut the spider web off the fan shroud and put that ring back in the rad shroud for cooling sake and easy belt change.
Cleaned the rads while i had the fan and shrouds off(that was a job and a half by itself)
Replaced the no 5 glow plug, cleaned batt grounds and starter leads,Installed 2 new inner fenders(used bolts on most points instead of the push buttons.
Fixed both ABS leads and fastened them out of the way of the tires.(ABS light is still on :rolleyes5
Dr side front brake pads worn almost to the steel,caliper leaking(I replaced them) other 3 wheels had new brake pads and calipers:???:
Pass side lower ball joint looks recently replaced but the dope that put it in with the grease zerk pointing in the wrong direction and now it can't be greased. Other ball joints and tie rod ends appear good, no play on hubs either.
Topped off the oil level with 1 quart on the front diff, opened up the breather hose and cap.( Seen last night a smal puddle of oil under the diff(have not investigated yet were that originates from)
Fuel leak at cooler from tube couplers to rad, no 0 rings on either tube end :rolleyes5:, cooler solid plugged with dirt and mm sized gravel, took 2 days of soaking and a couple hrs picking and blowing to get that open
Found out there are airbags on the rear axle(appear to hold air, so far so good)
Rear drive shaft u joint at the T-case was recently replaced but i was told the steady bearing was getting bad.
Turns out the steady bearing was good but the both the middle and rear greasable U joints were seized solid with rust( i needed a hammer to make them move)and the spline sleeve joint yoke was 30 degree off set to and seized to the shaft yoke.(some excellent mechanical ability and maintenance schedule at work here :thumbsup::rolleyes5.I replaced the U joints and cut a 1/2 from the splined sleeve to make it slide free again
Tranny shift shaft seal leaks too, got the seal have to put that in yet.
The bad.
Intake plugged filter indicator was tripped,..intake elbow and hose clamp was loose where it fits on the turbo.(last dope that worked on this forgot to tighten the hose clamp:WTF:,... plenty dirt in that location as well!. Wonder what that did to the engine???
Tranny to T-case joint has a slight ATF leak,appears to come from the joint. whats up with that?, seal, gasket,..or more serious?.
Been working on and off to go trough this truck.
Dug about 2 wheel barrels of gravel and dirt from out of the frame,and off the tranny,T-case,front diff, around the engine and everywhere else and that is after the initial car wash i did.(dirt still raining down with every tweak :mad2
Replaced the belt and the idlers, effed up the tread trying to remove one of them(bolt seized in the hole) had to go buy a tap to chase the treads.
I cut the spider web off the fan shroud and put that ring back in the rad shroud for cooling sake and easy belt change.
Cleaned the rads while i had the fan and shrouds off(that was a job and a half by itself)
Replaced the no 5 glow plug, cleaned batt grounds and starter leads,Installed 2 new inner fenders(used bolts on most points instead of the push buttons.
Fixed both ABS leads and fastened them out of the way of the tires.(ABS light is still on :rolleyes5
Dr side front brake pads worn almost to the steel,caliper leaking(I replaced them) other 3 wheels had new brake pads and calipers:???:
Pass side lower ball joint looks recently replaced but the dope that put it in with the grease zerk pointing in the wrong direction and now it can't be greased. Other ball joints and tie rod ends appear good, no play on hubs either.
Topped off the oil level with 1 quart on the front diff, opened up the breather hose and cap.( Seen last night a smal puddle of oil under the diff(have not investigated yet were that originates from)
Fuel leak at cooler from tube couplers to rad, no 0 rings on either tube end :rolleyes5:, cooler solid plugged with dirt and mm sized gravel, took 2 days of soaking and a couple hrs picking and blowing to get that open
Found out there are airbags on the rear axle(appear to hold air, so far so good)
Rear drive shaft u joint at the T-case was recently replaced but i was told the steady bearing was getting bad.
Turns out the steady bearing was good but the both the middle and rear greasable U joints were seized solid with rust( i needed a hammer to make them move)and the spline sleeve joint yoke was 30 degree off set to and seized to the shaft yoke.(some excellent mechanical ability and maintenance schedule at work here :thumbsup::rolleyes5
.I replaced the U joints and cut a 1/2 from the splined sleeve to make it slide free againTranny shift shaft seal leaks too, got the seal have to put that in yet.
The bad.
Intake plugged filter indicator was tripped,..intake elbow and hose clamp was loose where it fits on the turbo.(last dope that worked on this forgot to tighten the hose clamp:WTF:,... plenty dirt in that location as well!. Wonder what that did to the engine???
Tranny to T-case joint has a slight ATF leak,appears to come from the joint. whats up with that?, seal, gasket,..or more serious?.
- Staff
- #129
Based on what you knew when you bought it, I'd said that it's as expected. You say the RH lower ball joint fitting faces forward?
Sent from my SCH-I535
Sent from my SCH-I535
bison
Well-Known Member
Yes more or less so but i don't like that loose intake elbow one bit and neither that leak on the tranny and front diff, both were not visible at the time cause there was so much dirt caked on everything.
Nope that fitting is facing the dr side and just clearing the CV joint.
Front diff is leaking from the casing just above the dr side mount support,..could be a crack in it?
,..i'll have to remove the cross brace under it to see it clearly.The reason i did not see it before was because of the skid plate and the 5 gallon pail full of dirt and gravel packed in there.
On the tranny/t-case leak it may be the bottom bolts are loose but cant be gotten at without removing the tranny mount, cross brace and the soot trap.
Maybe cut that damn trap out altogether ?
tanman_2006
Just a farm kid...
Cut the soot trap out. No question about it.
There seems to have been a few cracked diffs posted lately. I'd check it out better though, make sure oil isn't dripping from above.
Intake left loose is pretty questionable but might not have done too much damage.
Fuel cooler can be replaced with just an oil cooler that takes 3/8's connections.
Judging by the bad rock chipped paint I don't doubt that it is filthy underneath.
source unknown
There seems to have been a few cracked diffs posted lately. I'd check it out better though, make sure oil isn't dripping from above.
Intake left loose is pretty questionable but might not have done too much damage.
Fuel cooler can be replaced with just an oil cooler that takes 3/8's connections.
Judging by the bad rock chipped paint I don't doubt that it is filthy underneath.
source unknown
bison
Well-Known Member
Have a couple ??
pic, i believe there should be a hose in this fuel line right.
2, were is the lift pump on these trucks or is there none?
3 what is that thingemejingy with the brake lines (in the pic) in the frame rail for.
I got a lucky break on the front diff leak,the leak originated from the joint in the case halves, found 3 loose bolts, tightened them up...leak is gone.
pic, i believe there should be a hose in this fuel line right.
2, were is the lift pump on these trucks or is there none?
3 what is that thingemejingy with the brake lines (in the pic) in the frame rail for.
I got a lucky break on the front diff leak,the leak originated from the joint in the case halves, found 3 loose bolts, tightened them up...leak is gone.
Attachments
tanman_2006
Just a farm kid...
No lift pump but they help these trucks if you put one on.
source unknown
source unknown
Ed HD
Formerly: Dad's 05 LLY
I believe that's the ABS module you're looking at right there. Called the EBCM, Electronic Brake Control Module.
Also, I'm pretty sure these trucks just have cats, not soot traps. Apparently it's quite the boost to remove it, lol.
Also, I'm pretty sure these trucks just have cats, not soot traps. Apparently it's quite the boost to remove it, lol.
- Staff
- #135
No lift pump from the factory, but like stated above they should have one IMO(just make sure it is a flow on fail, or else your walking if it quits working). It appears as though somebody did some patchwork on your fuel line as those comression fittings are not stock. It looks like most of your problems are from shoddy repairs made to the truck in the past from what I can see.
GM Guy
Manual Trans. 2WD Enthusiast
Congrats on the purchase! pretty desireable configuration if you ask me. especially thr SRW longbed.
keep at it and use good parts, and she will do you proud! due to the long wheelbase, may I suggest Buffalo Bill, the Bargain Boat?
keep at it and use good parts, and she will do you proud! due to the long wheelbase, may I suggest Buffalo Bill, the Bargain Boat?
bison
Well-Known Member
I dropped the cross member and the down pipe with the cat to get to the T-case to tranny bolts, found 2 loose ones on each side, torqued them down, it stopped most of the leak, it's still sweating a wee bit but it has to do.
Cat is gonna be gone.
So now for the CP3 i read about, what is is it , what does it do and were do i find it?
How about the EGR blocker and finger stick,..what is that all about?,...were is the EGR located?
Sorry for the questions but i am still pretty glue less about these d-maxes
Cat is gonna be gone.
So now for the CP3 i read about, what is is it , what does it do and were do i find it?
How about the EGR blocker and finger stick,..what is that all about?,...were is the EGR located?
Sorry for the questions but i am still pretty glue less about these d-maxes
- Staff
- #138
The egr blocker is a plate that blocks off the egr. It is on the passenger side of the motor.
The 5 finger is what tricks the computer that the egr is still good. It mounts on the top center of the motor.
They are both easy and can be done in less than 2 hours with lots of beer drinking in between. I did a buddies truck about 2 years ago.
The 5 finger is what tricks the computer that the egr is still good. It mounts on the top center of the motor.
They are both easy and can be done in less than 2 hours with lots of beer drinking in between. I did a buddies truck about 2 years ago.
- Staff
- #139
With a blocker plate you have to either use the finger stick or tune out the code with something like EFI but that may be difficult to do in your location. The FS has worked fine for me for over 125k miles. I might have posted a pic or two when I did mine. The tricky part is getting the nuts loose on the flange to get the plate in.
Sent from my SCH-I535
Sent from my SCH-I535
bison
Well-Known Member
I think i found that EGR,... cast iron elbow close to the fire wall bolted down with 2 bolts to aluminum tube pass side inboard above valve cover ..right?