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New to diesels and tooj on a 6.5 turbo diesel project

MrMarty51 said:
Is there a lot of bare wires, broke, cut and stripped wires ?
If not, unplug the terminals and look into them, use a maggit flying gass, ooops, magnifying glass, look into each individual end. If there is corrosion, clean them up. One of those hand held bead blasters from HF does an amazing job of shining up them connectors.
Just be sure that there is no way the beads can enter into the engine or the injection/fuelnsystem.
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dbrannon79 said:
test all your connections at the bus bar for power. that is the distribution block and has some fusible link wires, one could be burnt and not sending the juice to the right places. if there is power at the bus bar posts, then check a little down each wire. you will see the transition from the fuse link wire into the actual wire. test there with a pointy test light for power
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Alright so I'm goin to try and complete this revival process with current harness altho with as hot as its been once I get truck drivable IL go ahead and get a new harness!!! ANYWAY... Positive to bus bar all good will check in line from them after work IP harness I took off threw away extention and tested harness all wires there are fine. WHAT ABOUT THE JUNKTION BOX?? on driver inner fender there was three wires on it at one time all got cut off could this be my port problem? Also goin to scrub grounds after work and hook things back up
 
Grigsbilly91 said:
No I don't believe it does just a buss bar I think it's called with inline fuses I'm pretty sure i wasn't getting power to the crank position sensor so I tore rest if wire loom off and it doesn't look real good and how could oil leak from ports or bolt hole on intake I didn't have in? Maybe I should slow this project down and just wait until I can buy a new harness View attachment 80228View attachment 80227
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Now you Feel The PAIN of why you should keep the mechanical 1993 over this electronic clusterF! Even when you get all that fixed the bad PMD design will randomly ruin your day.

You have no SES light. Engine runs = ECM has power. Check the SES bulb as some remove it rather than "fix it". The SES and STS should come on for a key on bulb check after the key has been off for at least 30 seconds.

Little bug you may rather not chase: If you shut the key off and immediately turn it back on it will: 1) Randomly display the STS, SES light or both off. 2) Randomly trip a code for the APP. It's because the ECM stays "on" for a time after key off. I have watched the APP change position for like 20 seconds after key off on the GMTD stuff before.
 
Grigsbilly91 said:
Alright so I'm goin to try and complete this revival process with current harness altho with as hot as its been once I get truck drivable IL go ahead and get a new harness!!! ANYWAY... Positive to bus bar all good will check in line from them after work IP harness I took off threw away extention and tested harness all wires there are fine. WHAT ABOUT THE JUNKTION BOX?? on driver inner fender there was three wires on it at one time all got cut off could this be my port problem? Also goin to scrub grounds after work and hook things back up
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I had an extension harness that tested fine for continuity, but one of the pins lost connection in the extension harness. I tried several extension harnesses before I made a T harness to check for juice going back to the IP. The T harness just happened to make connection on that pin and the truck started.
 
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That is a resetable circuit breaker someone added. not factory. could have been added for a trailer brake controller or some such. nothing you would need to worry about for the engine.

if there is no fuse / relay box mounted right up by the brake master cylinder, then it will have a distrobution block mounted on the firewall over near the ac accumulator with 4-5 threaded studs. one main power wire going in and several other smaller wires going out to varous things for the engine and trans. check all thoes for power. the fuse links will be there also. then check to see that all the fuses in the cab fuse box are good and none are missing. that's the problem I had on mine. fuses were missing!
 
dbrannon79 said:
Here is some info that might help you. section 8A has all the wire diagrams and other info like power and grounds you might be looking for

www.dieselplace.com

Info: - The 6.5L FAQ's... The Master List of...

www.dieselplace.com www.dieselplace.com

at some point I want to compile all of this info into my archived library incase it's ever pulled from the innerwebs. it's a vast amount of info.
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OK IL be looking into it have the intake off again I wanted to make sure all wires on pump harness were good bus bar is all received power and I got the grounds shining the fuse box is all good except that crk fuse has no power maybe that's normal IL check the wire after all the inline and that bulb for the ses light after work fuse strap by the gas tank is in bad shape and hasn't been connected so I have a few things to do
 
Also while I have access to some 6.5 knowledge on this forum I wanted to delete vac system but didn't fully research before I deleted vac pump and got a new shorter belt made made waste gate with all thread and heavy spring I connected hoses together for turbo on three sensor bracket I got a boost gage and drilled and taped into upper intake but didn't delete egr although I want to but wasn't sure if I could after reading threads about maybe needing a chip should I just keep it on there and plugged in I also opened up upper intake and took out snorkel in inner fender
 
honestly, I wouldn't recommend deleting the vacuum pump until it fails and gives you issues. the one thing to remember is you will need some programming in the PCM or a boost fouler to avoid it going into a derate and defueling situation. also the biggest thing is the boost pressures with a stock engine that doesn't have head studs installed or a lower end girdle to keep it together.

I keep mine at stock boost levels and have the vacuum pump working with the factory sensors and have been happy with that.

better to get is running and fix all the issues one at a time before doing any modifications. this way your not opening up to a whole slew of other problems to face.
 
dbrannon79 said:
honestly, I wouldn't recommend deleting the vacuum pump until it fails and gives you issues. the one thing to remember is you will need some programming in the PCM or a boost fouler to avoid it going into a derate and defueling situation. also the biggest thing is the boost pressures with a stock engine that doesn't have head studs installed or a lower end girdle to keep it together.

I keep mine at stock boost levels and have the vacuum pump working with the factory sensors and have been happy with that.

better to get is running and fix all the issues one at a time before doing any modifications. this way your not opening up to a whole slew of other problems to face.
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Good to know but I already threw away the vac pump and put a different belt on shouldn't it be fine as long as I keep it at a stock boost level like 7 or 8 isn't It I got the gauge I still have to hook up
 
Just remembered I wanted to ask if I should just run over to the heat sync pmd that's on the fire wall I can't take off pmd from pump or its not covered but a relocation kit was installed previously would I have to do the relearn process again if I used one on firewall
 
7-8 psi should be fine. one thing I learned on mine was the PCM doesn't like more than 3 psi boost when cruising on the freeway as soon as you let off slightly on the go pedal at higher speeds the engine light will come on with a boost pressure code.

also the less boost while cruising = better mpg's with more boost the PCM will try to push more fuel
 
OK awesome I'm not looking for extra boost just saw them pumps are junk so deleted since it was coming off anyways when I did water pump hoping truck will last long enough to mod down the road currently just needing a vehicle that's reliable and so I wanted to do what u could to the 6.5 prevented maintance I guess
 
Grigsbilly91 said:
Just remembered I wanted to ask if I should just run over to the heat sync pmd that's on the fire wall I can't take off pmd from pump or its not covered but a relocation kit was installed previously would I have to do the relearn process again if I used one on firewall
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no just changing the PMD you don't need to do the relearn process. BUT.... if there is no resistor inside the connector it will at some point just stop running and make you scratch you head profusely! the resistor also need to be the same as the one in the PMD that's currently connected. if it's different, then you have to run the relearn.

what I did to solve this problem is installed the resistor inside the extension harness up by the IP so that when ever I had to replace the PMD, I would never have to worry about removing and swapping out the resistor.

Note: I noticed that your PMD and heatsink is mounted to the firewall. that is not the best location under the hood where heat builds. although it's better than being mounted on the IP, it's best to mount it down in one of the holes of the front bumper with the fins facing out. lots of guys will mount two of them there and have one with a dummy connector plugged in so that dirt doesn't get into the plug. when it fails on you 99% of the time while your out in the middle of no mans land, you can just swap the dummy plug with the harness and be on your way!
 
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