ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
94 should be able to do the paperclip method
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New to diesels and tooj on a 6.5 turbo diesel project
- Thread starter Grigsbilly91
- Start date
J_dude
Well-Known Member
Reading the first post, sounds like the 93 was the other truck that was overheating, which also sounds like it was a gas engine, that truck is on the back burner.
The 6.5 is a ‘94
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Honestly I never had any luck with the paperclip method on my 95. although that was before I replaced the PCM. I have not tried it with the 94 PCM I have in it now. But I can tell you how to build your own USB cable with a $15 part off amazon and a free program for your windows laptop that should communicate with it. I had no issues with it myself and ended up investing into the licensed version of the program to have the extra features.
Here is how to do it.... to build your own cable. follow the DP link and order the part linked in the amazon link. then setup the software from GMTDscan (free version) the software will allow you to read and clear codes, see live data and a few more things without paying anything. if you want to set the timing after an IP replacement you will need to pay for the license.
Link to building the cable... Note: if there is an issue cross posting this forum link Please let me know. I can copy and paste the main details here instead.
www.dieselplace.com
the USB part you will need from amazon...
windows drivers for the USB amazon part... Note: you want both the VCP and V2xx drivers and set the device to com port 1 or 2 in the device manager. it's a limitation of the GMTDscan software that needs to be on com 1 or 2.
ftdichip.com
download GMTDscan basic version here... the licensed version is $100 on their website. I purchased it directly from them and a license was emailed to me.
www.gmtdscan.com
Here is how to do it.... to build your own cable. follow the DP link and order the part linked in the amazon link. then setup the software from GMTDscan (free version) the software will allow you to read and clear codes, see live data and a few more things without paying anything. if you want to set the timing after an IP replacement you will need to pay for the license.
Link to building the cable... Note: if there is an issue cross posting this forum link Please let me know. I can copy and paste the main details here instead.
DIY: - How To: Scan your OBD1 6.5 for less than $10!
www.dieselplace.com
the USB part you will need from amazon...
windows drivers for the USB amazon part... Note: you want both the VCP and V2xx drivers and set the device to com port 1 or 2 in the device manager. it's a limitation of the GMTDscan software that needs to be on com 1 or 2.
Drivers - FTDI
ftdichip.com
download GMTDscan basic version here... the licensed version is $100 on their website. I purchased it directly from them and a license was emailed to me.
Download – GMTDScan
www.gmtdscan.com
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Grigsbilly91
Well-Known Member
Trying to use either a snap on graphing scanner or a actron both obd2 so I bought adapter
Grigsbilly91
Well-Known Member
OK thanks for the info il check the links because I'll have to set TDC I assume I looked into the gmtd a couple weeks ago and got hacked so I was iffy about attempting again somebody said it's all done with scanners nowHonestly I never had any luck with the paperclip method on my 95. although that was before I replaced the PCM. I have not tried it with the 94 PCM I have in it now. But I can tell you how to build your own USB cable with a $15 part off amazon and a free program for your windows laptop that should communicate with it. I had no issues with it myself and ended up investing into the licensed version of the program to have the extra features.
Here is how to do it.... to build your own cable. follow the DP link and order the part linked in the amazon link. then setup the software from GMTDscan (free version) the software will allow you to read and clear codes, see live data and a few more things without paying anything. if you want to set the timing after an IP replacement you will need to pay for the license.
Link to building the cable... Note: if there is an issue cross posting this forum link Please let me know. I can copy and paste the main details here instead.
DIY: - How To: Scan your OBD1 6.5 for less than $10!
the USB part you will need from amazon...
windows drivers for the USB amazon part... Note: you want both the VCP and V2xx drivers and set the device to com port 1 or 2 in the device manager. it's a limitation of the GMTDscan software that needs to be on com 1 or 2.
Drivers - FTDI
download GMTDscan basic version here... the licensed version is $100 on their website. I purchased it directly from them and a license was emailed to me.
Download – GMTDScan
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
the snap-on scanners wont work on these trucks. even if your were able to get it to power on they won't communicate properly.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
depending on what site you went on. there are a lot of copycat sites the try and take your info and what not. I pulled the GMTD site up today and noticed it has changed, had to look on the wayback machine ( a website that shows teh history of sites) to see if this was the same site. it indeed is the same site. of course that doesn't mean something hacked their site, they are located in Sweeden. when I made fired the money cannon at them, I think I used paypal so I didn't have to share my card number at the time. But again, don't buy anything till you try it out.
there are a lot of folks online selling this guy's software out there too. I do have their email address since I did contact them directly, I can share if you want to contact them directly.
This is the only option I know of that works other than buying ether a genuine tech 2 or the Chinese copy they sell on ebay.
there are a lot of folks online selling this guy's software out there too. I do have their email address since I did contact them directly, I can share if you want to contact them directly.
This is the only option I know of that works other than buying ether a genuine tech 2 or the Chinese copy they sell on ebay.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
@Grigsbilly91
There are several grounds out on the engine.
Located on the passenger side at the back of the engine.
Should be about 4 if Your truck is about the same as My 2000 K3500.
Two of the grounds on my truck is under an intake manifold stud/nut and the other two is located under the transmission dipstick tube mounting to the back of that other grounding stud.
Remove those ground wire terminals and scrub them to shiny clean, make sure that the area of the studs and nuts is shiny clean too then put that back together. Once again try reading the codes with the paper clip and see what happens.
There are several grounds out on the engine.
Located on the passenger side at the back of the engine.
Should be about 4 if Your truck is about the same as My 2000 K3500.
Two of the grounds on my truck is under an intake manifold stud/nut and the other two is located under the transmission dipstick tube mounting to the back of that other grounding stud.
Remove those ground wire terminals and scrub them to shiny clean, make sure that the area of the studs and nuts is shiny clean too then put that back together. Once again try reading the codes with the paper clip and see what happens.
If You are going to send that plastic intake cover to the trash bin, send it over to here.
Grigsbilly91
Well-Known Member
I'm going to clean the grounds now pmd box has power on pins d and e so 2 out of 6 and pump plug power is pin a, b, c, e, so 4 out of 6 are hot also no power to fuse crk
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Does that year of truck have a fuse panel under the hood, atop of the left side fender well ?
Grigsbilly91
Well-Known Member
No I don't believe it does just a buss bar I think it's called with inline fuses I'm pretty sure i wasn't getting power to the crank position sensor so I tore rest if wire loom off and it doesn't look real good and how could oil leak from ports or bolt hole on intake I didn't have in? Maybe I should slow this project down and just wait until I can buy a new harness 
jrsavoie
Recruit
The harness isn't that expensive
Grigsbilly91
Well-Known Member
I'm goin to price one I'm just concerned about putting much more time and money into this thing I'm kinda committed as much as I put in it but I'm unfamiliar with this engine and did have some white smoke while idling probably injectors but there is just a lot of unknown and this truck and I haven't exactly been friends I'm starting to this she don't want to be brought back after 5 years of sitting
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Is there a lot of bare wires, broke, cut and stripped wires ?
If not, unplug the terminals and look into them, use a maggit flying gass, ooops, magnifying glass, look into each individual end. If there is corrosion, clean them up. One of those hand held bead blasters from HF does an amazing job of shining up them connectors.
Just be sure that there is no way the beads can enter into the engine or the injection/fuelnsystem.
If not, unplug the terminals and look into them, use a maggit flying gass, ooops, magnifying glass, look into each individual end. If there is corrosion, clean them up. One of those hand held bead blasters from HF does an amazing job of shining up them connectors.
Just be sure that there is no way the beads can enter into the engine or the injection/fuelnsystem.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
@Grigsbilly91 in your first pic there is a harness extension with a black box which plugs into the top of the IP. disconect it and toss it in the trash! that little noise filter will give you nothing but fits. the other end will plug right into the IP. that plug on the IP is your optic sensor btw.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
test all your connections at the bus bar for power. that is the distribution block and has some fusible link wires, one could be burnt and not sending the juice to the right places. if there is power at the bus bar posts, then check a little down each wire. you will see the transition from the fuse link wire into the actual wire. test there with a pointy test light for power too.
jrsavoie
Recruit
Do you have a link to the hf hand held bead blaster?
What media do you use?
This?
Harbor Freight Tools – Quality Tools at Discount Prices Since 1977
Harbor Freight buys their top quality tools from the same factories that supply our competitors. We cut out the middleman and pass the savings to you!
www.harborfreight.com
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
That one will work just fine.Do you have a link to the hf hand held bead blaster?
What media do you use?
This?
Harbor Freight Tools – Quality Tools at Discount Prices Since 1977
Harbor Freight buys their top quality tools from the same factories that supply our competitors. We cut out the middleman and pass the savings to you!
I also have one of those small HF bead blast cabinets set up on a stand. Its good for what will fit within.
Last glass bead media I got was from NAPA. Came in a bag but I dont remember how many pounds was in that bag.
I dont know if they have various size of beads.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
If You know someone that has a glass bead cabinet, maybe they would give You a coffee jug of beads.Do you have a link to the hf hand held bead blaster?
What media do you use?
This?
Harbor Freight Tools – Quality Tools at Discount Prices Since 1977
Harbor Freight buys their top quality tools from the same factories that supply our competitors. We cut out the middleman and pass the savings to you!
That would last quite a while, maybe.
jrsavoie
Recruit
I thought maybe a trip to New Orleans or Jerry Springer for beads.If You know someone that has a glass bead cabinet, maybe they would give You a coffee jug of beads.
That would last quite a while, maybe.