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New to diesels and tooj on a 6.5 turbo diesel project

Grigsbilly91 said:
OK maybe I will drive it around the block and just let it run awhile and check coolant levels I put couple gsl in there and I think it might have just burped itself because it took a couple gal more last couple days once I reinstall steering wheel I'll get it out of driveway honestly I might spend a couple few days buttoning everything up before I do relearn but IL keep you posted and try and make sure everyone is on board to actually finalize this drug out project thanks for the help seems like it won't be much longer thanks ya'll
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6.5 fan and clutch diffrences

Here we have a 21" Duramax fan, 4 bolt 9 blade 19" steel, and a "scrap metal" 6 blade 6 bolt fan and clutch.
www.thetruckstop.us

Take a look at the fan and clutch options out there. You are running this engine with a COMPLETELY USELESS FAN and INOP Fan Clutch. See all the crud on the clutch? That's the working fluid that leaked out of the clutch. No/low Working fluid = No Worky! Engine overheat is just waiting to happen. Before you burn up another engine I suggest you immediately replace both the fan and fan clutch. The 4 bolt water pump is good enough as long as it's a HO version. Ideally a spin on, single nut style for the fan clutch mount to water pump, water pump is better, but, that's splitting hairs when you have ZERO available cooling from the INOP fan clutch now.

kennedydiesel is the "Easy Button" for a better low temp calibration fan clutch Like GM Should have used from DAY #1.
Dorman still sells a 9 blade fan.

The Duramax fan is better for idle A/C but flexes at high RPM towing. Also saggy engine mounts may require trimming the shroud.

I would also check the fuel pressure with a pressure vac gauge connected to the filter's water drain hose.

As it was asked, but, I don't think it applies at this time: If you have concern about the cooling system: we are looking for immediate pressure in the system when it's cold.

Further steps would be remove the fan belt and the thermostat & thermostat top housing. Idle the engine for less than 2 min and look for a steady stream of bubbles. This would indicate what side of the engine or both have combustion pressure entering the cooling system. Other leaks into the engine oil will not show up with this test.

IMO the coolant you seen was from the Water Pump service.
 
Will L. said:
If it is the oil cooler hoses- those go from leaking a little to ruptured very quickly and almost instantly destroying the engine so replacing those are worth it of you decide to sell it.
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Just replace the old oil cooler hoses ASAP. They are not that expensive. They are known to get overheated, low temp spec material GM low bidder used, by the extremely hot oil and harden up. Maybe they give you a leak warning before they fail taking the engine with em. This hot oil hose design was so unreliable that most modern engine eliminate hoses for oil and use a coolant to oil heat exchanger on the engine.

Aftermarket offers better options for the oil cooler lines...

The oil filter adapter is a regular service item for leaking needing new orings.
 
OK thanks for all the information ni immediate pressure from reservoir and I'll look into aftermarket hoses got another truck to drive temporarily while I finish buttoning up the 6.5 THANKS EVERYONE!!! for the help and different links and information I spent much time trying to figure this information out before joining this this page I will put steering wheel on ensure that pump is working and drive until I have to do relearn and IL keep everyone posted and take a final video of the lifted 6.5 turbo revival it's been a long time coming believe me my buddy was stoked to hear his old truck run again and I will say after much prayer blood sweat and tears and 2 months later she was worth it thank yall
 
Will L. said:
Then once this one is dialed in and ya know if ya keep it- lets see that 93 and keep it happy. Magical db2 makes it more desirable by many folks.
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Lol yah I'm definitely keeping it and 93 nothing just a beater I gave more attention to then probably deserved the 93 and the 96 are just a couple gassers that's the headache rack ladder rack and box for the 6.5 I think she gotta be worth more then 3 il post pictures when she done maybe someone can answer my question about the supposed special order truck 2500 leaf spring suspension and gear box but original owner wanted 6 lug hubs and galvanized truck bed? I can say not a spot of rust on whole bed
 

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Ok attempted to fix oil cooler leak at block and couldn't find any o rings in the fitting and when I tried to put one on there I could get line back in fitting enough to place snap ring why would that threaded fitting go bad should I buy another one or is new o rings sufficient
 
Those factory fittings with the snap in place lines are notorious for coming loose / leaking / blowing out while your on the road. if your there already, I would pull the fittings from the block and replace them with some hydraulic fittings to JIC / an-6. have you a couple of hydraulic hoses made to run up to the cooler. even getting an aftermarket cooler with the JIC / an-6 threaded ports on it too so not to deal with those junk clip in connectors.

if one of them pops out you can loose the engine in a matter of seconds before you even realized what just happened.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Those factory fittings with the snap in place lines are notorious for coming loose / leaking / blowing out while your on the road. if your there already, I would pull the fittings from the block and replace them with some hydraulic fittings to JIC / an-6. have you a couple of hydraulic hoses made to run up to the cooler. even getting an aftermarket cooler with the JIC / an-6 threaded ports on it too so not to deal with those junk clip in connectors.

if one of them pops out you can loose the engine in a matter of seconds before you even realized what just happened.
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YUP /\_/\_/\_/\ what he said.
Your there now, just getter done.
 
I'm just a bit concerned about the possible internal coolant leak I believe it has and want to do all I can for the engine as far as upgrades but not wanting to spend another dime until I drive awhile it sounds great I went to drive other night until I realized the tie rod was bent where someone hooked to it to move it and I forgot and sway bar missing on other side plus oil leak wasn't fixed I want to throw a blue devil block seal in it I used sea foam already butbhasnt ran much since but il rrplace oil adapter with nre o rings for niw until I know more
 
Grigsbilly91 said:
I'm just a bit concerned about the possible internal coolant leak I believe it has and want to do all I can for the engine as far as upgrades but not wanting to spend another dime until I drive awhile it sounds great I went to drive other night until I realized the tie rod was bent where someone hooked to it to move it and I forgot and sway bar missing on other side plus oil leak wasn't fixed I want to throw a blue devil block seal in it I used sea foam already butbhasnt ran much since but il rrplace oil adapter with nre o rings for niw until I know more
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Do not use blue Devil.
I swear that guy spends all of his spare time putting up fake reviews.

Only read the bad reviews on that crap.
 
if you absolutely must... attempting to fix the factory oil cooler lines, completely remove the fittings from the block so you have them out where you can see what your doing... look in the bore of the fitting where the line snaps into. there will be a grove cut into the ID of the fitting where an o-ring sits. use a curved pic to remove the old one and replace with new. clean out the fitting well and the end of the line. reinstall into the block and re-attach the clip and line. make sure they slide in smoothly. add a little grease to the end of the line where it goes in so it won't cut the o-ring on the way in. do a test pull to make sure they both are clipped in and secure before trying to start the engine.

while your under there you might as well pull the oil filter and adapter replacing the o-ring behind the adapter too this way when you crank her up there is no more oil leaks. you want to pre-fill the filter going in (use a new filter) and disable the engine so it doesn't start up. crank a bit (10 seconds max and let the starter rest) make sure the oil filter and lines are primed with oil. then let it run looking for leaks the entire time.

DONT plan to leave it this way. once you find and figure out the coolant issue. make replacing the oil cooler lines with new not factory style one of your top priorities.
 
SnowDrift said:
I would stay away from the "miracles in bottles" if that's the reason you're asking. Figure out where the leak is and replace the part, gasket, o-ring, etc. Even if it takes some time, it will be worth it in the long run.
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If it's a radiator, nothing.

If it's an engine that is being run to death with a completely different plan if the engine does, we had luck on my son's 1995 with a product that involved a lot of flushing and time.

It held up until he took it to a shop for a starter swap.
First they broke the block, then tried hiding the fact by jury rigging the starter on.
They used ether to finish it off.
I might have posted a thread with the product we used.

I used a different product that worked in our Toro. I will try to remember to post the product when I get a chance
 
dbrannon79 said:
Those factory fittings with the snap in place lines are notorious for coming loose / leaking / blowing out while your on the road. if your there already, I would pull the fittings from the block and replace them with some hydraulic fittings to JIC / an-6. have you a couple of hydraulic hoses made to run up to the cooler. even getting an aftermarket cooler with the JIC / an-6 threaded ports on it too so not to deal with those junk clip in connectors.

if one of them pops out you can loose the engine in a matter of seconds before you even realized what just happened.
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Can you explain this napa has JIC and is having a hard time finding the size to match my fitting it's not 1/2 or 3/8 is an-6 metric and on the cooler side will it seal without the tip of line and I ring in before the nut
 
I thought it was standard pipe thread in the block but not positive. I would have to pull one and have a look. you should be able to find a couple of 90 deg fittings that match the threads for the block and the other end would be a normal JIC (37 deg flared) for hydraulic. I would recommend trying to use 1/2" for the hoses up to the cooler.

I think on the cooler there isn't any removable threaded fittings, you most likely would have to replace the cooler with one that has the same ends as what you put on the hoses.

@Will L. or someone who has done this might know what size the block is and if the factory cooler can be used.
 
Sorry, I can’t remember.

I simply replace the cooler with one that has normal fittings, and have hydraulic hoses made. Bring in the fittings out of the block and hy them at the hydraulic shop. At least hmmwvs/ hummers got that part right at the factory. Gm just has to be cheap.
 
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