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My Shop

On grinding valve seats. I always use a magic marker, stain the seat after grinding it, then when narrowing the seat it is much easier to see how wide the seat is, or, how narrow it is getting.
After getting seat narrowed, then stick the valve for that position into the guide and forcefully slam the valve into the seat several times, that will leave a nice little mark around the valve face and show where on the face the valve will be seating. Just a couple a tricks showed to me by a old timer.
 
Very nice.
After grinding the valve seats, use a magic marker to stain the new seat, then narrow the seat to about 3/32nds, IIRC.
The newly faced valve can be slapped onto the seat with some pretty good force, that will leave an impression ring on the valve face so that You can see where on the face the valve is seating, if it seats off center very far then, the valve seat can be adjusted to get the seating more centered. It is better to have the valve seating more towards the stem than outwards towards the outer edge. Less chance of the valve creating leakage that way.
I love doing cylinder heads.
 
So I spent some time getting familiar with my valve grinder, one of the things I'd read about was that it is pretty common as they age for the chuck to get alot of run out. I had quite a bit to start with but then I discovered I was doing it wrong. Turns out there's a shaft on the back side that engages the valve stem so I disassembled it, which is how I discovered it, cleaned things up and put it back together. I had .001 run-out. SCORE
Made a cover for it to keep crud off of it.

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