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My Shop

I can turn the valve up and get stuff to shoot 3-4 ft in the air without even opening the valve all the way but no additional holes start bubbling
 
So I decided it was time to do something with my 4wheeler snowblower. After stewing over for a long time I decided to convert to sprockets and chain. I found a store on line an was trying to use their catalog without much luck so I decided to call them. The guy I talked to wasn't very helpful and borderline just being rude. So I finally said to him maybe I need to call a different company and he said maybe you should so I hung up. Nitro chain for any who cares. So I ended up calling a different place, super helpful super friendly shipped out the same day. I would highly recommend them. Redboarchain is their name. Prices seemed about the same as the other outfit too.
Anyways I pulled my wheeler into the shop today and tore it down. Wouldn't have taken very long but the second stage impeller wouldn't come off, I tried everything I could think of I have a really big puller and a good impact and it didn't touch it,tried some heat with a propane torch no go. Got out my cutting torch for better heat but still no go. I finally got a sawsall with a metal cutting blade and did a cut length wise and then used my air hammer with a chisel bit in it and got it to crack. Then put the puller back on and pulled it off. The only thing holding it was rust.
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Thats just crazy to me. It’s so foreign that although I understand the concept it’s like that commercial of the two guys being trained to not react to the blue hair. How big is a “normal one”? Like to compare, a normal gas powered walk behind lawn Mower vs the ride on is large and few own them, vs the monster ones that tow extra blades behind are full on pro level only.
 
The walk behind range anywhere from about 18-36". I actually have another one that I want to set up for my forklift to push it. It has a Ford 300 6cyl on it. I know the engine runs good but I don't know much about the rest of it.
 
Picked up the part from the PO a few minutes ago. Also veed out and welded the impeller then cleaned out the bore. Then I cleaned up the shaft. I need to cut off the sleeve on the pulley and weld it onto the sprocket, but I think I'll mount the small drive sprocket first to give me a better idea of locations.

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So pretty much back together. I'm stupid and didn't check close enough when I ordered the sprockets. The shafts they went on were metric and I ordered standard. So a fair amount of my time was modifying the sprockets to fit the shafts. Plus I had to make a keyway in one of them. I decided I liked how the impeller was mounted, the end of the sleeve had a thick washer welded on it and the bolt in the end of the shaft held it both ways. So I did the same for the other one. The sprockets came with set screws which I didn't use.
I cut off the sleeve that was part of the big pulley and welded it to the big sprocket. That sleeve is where power is transferred to the auger and the impeller. Originally the impeller side had a keyway but I decided to leave it out and drilled it for another shear pin. I'm concerned that the chain setup won't have any slip to it like the belts did. I'm going to leave the guards off for a bit to see if everything is working okay.

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So got it all back together and took it out for a test. So far so good! Only issue I had was the float/needle stuck and the exhaust started glowing red and flames coming out. A real HOT rod lol. Probably had a little water in the fuel and it was only 3*. Supposed to snow a couple of inches tomorrow, I'll see if I can get a vid made
 
Snowblower is pretty much done. I need to figure out either how to change the clutch engagement rpm or lower the idle rpm lower than the governor likes. I played with the governor a fair amount, which is how I determined it was controlling the idle, and couldn't figure a way to change it.
Anyways I started playing with my air bubbler system in my parts washer and have come to the conclusion that A the holes are too big B the line is too long or C a combination.
I was also wondering if it would make any difference if the holes were on the bottom. I wish my old HS shop teacher was around so I could ask how the one he had in class was designed.
 
Holes on bottom/side/top shouldn’t matter. The air agitates the fluid above it.

Might need to start over with that piece, but begin with holes on top so you can modify as needed while in place, and start way small. Maybe increase hole size only enlarging every other one. That way you can test between hole sizes.

maybe run some small screws into some of the holes you have now, to start over without replacing tube

I would think tons of tiny holes like carburetor jet size
 
I was talking to a friend of mine who does fire systems and he suggested using a manifold with valves on it to keep the runs shorter and be able to adjust flow to each line
 
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