• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

My new truck

So I ordered some wire to work on my truck with. I got some 18/8 soo cord to go through the doors and up to the mirrors. Hopefully have enough to do the plow truck too.
Also ordered some 7 wire trailer wire to redo the frame wiring to the back of the truck. It has 6-12 gauge and one 10 gauge wire, hoping to use the 10 gauge wire to put battery power back to my dump trailer to charge the battery while towing.
 
In this picture is the cheap knock off version and what usually makes everyone mad.
Get the snap on or Mac version. If you look at the plier style one in this pic you’ll see the middle part that goes against the pin head is very slim. This is why the cheap ones fail. The good ones are about same size inside and outside. Guys would say “I have that, it works sometimes..”. Then I show them on the demo board and have them use theirs. 18 of 20 guys bought the better set within a month. I offered everyone of them full refund if they didn’t like it. Never one returned.

Many times a cheaper tool will get something done just fine. But when you find yourself fighting something, usually worth a better tool. Gm at least doesn’t break the panels often. Boy them jeep and European car guys- they thought I saved the world.

Both snappy and mac website sux- i cant find them on there. To do comparison pic. They both offer a crappy one too just like these ones- so make sure the sizes are the same on the end. On the long prybar style- the longer the arm usually the better the bodyshop guys said. Have really long and a couple short ones.

9404A63A-24D3-47D7-919A-DDDCCA1EFE96.jpeg
 
So since my last post I put on new endlinks for the sway bar and a rancho steering stabilizer. I've replaced the endlinks before but I keep breaking the bolt on one side. So I went with a kit that had larger bolts, it was actually one of the cheaper kits. I upgraded the steering stabilizer to help compensate for my red head steering box. It's super touchy going straight, any little deviation and the front end almost darts. Also wondering if this could partially be to the EVO delete I did. Anyway between the two of those it helped a fair amount. The stock stabilizer would go one way easier than the other, a stock replacement was slightly stiffer but uniform, the rancho was really stiff and you had to work at it to move it at all.
 
So I finished up repairing my frame rail wiring harness. I ended up going a different route than I originally intended. I just replaced 5 of the wires. I was hoping to find that this was my short but nope. One of the things I did while I was in there is I added a ground. The original ground for the fuel gauge sending unit and the fuel pump was a bolt on the top of the frame back by the sending unit, I spliced in a wire by the fuel pump and ran it forward and connected it to my ground bar.IMG_20210426_150747.jpg
Other than that it is pretty much stock other than the wires I replaced with larger gauge wire and new loom.IMG_20210427_125203.jpgIMG_20210427_125211.jpgIMG_20210427_125151.jpgIMG_20210427_125858.jpgIMG_20210427_125306.jpgIMG_20210427_125316.jpgIMG_20210427_125238.jpgIMG_20210427_125243.jpg
 
Back
Top