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My new truck

Husker6.5 said:
So could it give you a sense of abnormal "lane wander" or "loose steering" when driving on the Interstate, even after replacing all four ball joints, all the tie rod ends, idler arm and bracket and Pitman arm?

I checked the rag joint and it was solid (although I have contemplated the U-joint replacement) and while the Pitman was being replaced, couldn't feel any really bad play in the steering gear box.
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Yes, it can and does...GM has a kit to delete the piece of &%$# at the p/s pump, its been awhile but I believe the plug to that little bastard is red and tied into the security system to, find it on d/s near the ac compressor...
 
That's why I'm deleting mine, seems to accentuate any looseness in the front end. The electronics are behind the plastic dash just above your right knee. As FT mentioned that electronic box controls the EVO and the security system and it seems like one other thing
 
Yeah, I replaced everything I mentioned above in my Burb several years ago, before the tranny went south, in an attempt to eliminate the "steering a barge with a boat wheel" feeling of lots of play in the steering wheel while going "straight" down the highway with a sudden kind of grab/lurch in that direction by the Burb if the wheel was turned a little too far one way or another. I could never just keep the wheel held steady and keep going straight like I could with my '94 C2500's power steering.
 
It’s real simple. As soon as you can afford it- delete it. If it pops while you are hiway traffic driving- what does that crash cost you.
 
I learned about them because of driving a fairly new (15-20k miles on it) and when I was changing lanes it went from low to high power as I was trying to make a normal lane change. Just as the left wheels crossed the line ZOOM I was into the other lane so fast I almost over corrected. It went straight to the dealership on a hook. They bypassed the evo and it drove like a normal.
We were testing for GM at the time and GM engineers were there the next week for other stuff. We (company owners, fleet mgr, foreman, dispatch mgr, and the 2 engineers) discussed it. They knew there were problems but didn’t have a complete fix yet. We had so many trucks running 24/7 that crashes were a statistical surety. Over 200 trucks had it modified in the first week.

I don’t understand all the details of what and why. I just know it was stupid to keep running them.
 
So to keep this updated I installed the greaseable door hinge pins, it shifted the doors just enough that sometimes the interior lights stay on. I temporarily put some washers behind the door button, and found out that if I look hard enough I can still find the colored washers GM sold for the fix part number 15730043 for the red ones and ends with a 2 for blue ones. Seems to be more blue ones available.
I also replaced the interior door handle on the passenger side, the metal handle always seem to break. I think next up I'll be putting a new fuel pressure gauge in to replace the defective one I have now.
 
ak diesel driver said:
I drove mine for a time with the selenoid unplugged, it was better than being plugged in but it still felt weird. Not alot just different.
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I installed the GM kit, then went to PSC pump and a early GMT400 pump to hydro hose, now building an AN-6 SS braided hose for that. I did the shaft conversion to U-joint and will be using PSC 6 bolt cap box pricey but promising using tapered bearings and stouter parts...
 
FellowTraveler said:
I installed the GM kit, then went to PSC pump and a early GMT400 pump to hydro hose, now building an AN-6 SS braided hose for that. I did the shaft conversion to U-joint and will be using PSC 6 bolt cap box pricey but promising using tapered bearings and stouter parts...
Click to expand...
So does the pressure fitting from the early GM400s fit the newer pump ?
A couple items that the auto salvage here will for sure have.
 
My understanding is the selenoid was added and the pumps are all the same. One thing I did notice is my pump had a slight whine like when it's low on fluid and that's gone now.
 
I don’t know the “in the mean time” answer. Get the bypass kit. All I know is when it went wrong- I felt happy to not have smacked something.
 
Well between other projects I managed to get the gauge installed. Still have to hook up the sending unit under the hood though. I figure someone will ask why the white face on the gauge and it's because I got a smoking deal on it a year or so ago. Been hoping to come across a black face but no luck so far. The gauge itself should be pretty easy to change if I find one, assuming it's the same. I had to change the wiring out for this gauge. I had to extend the wiring and it uses a special metripack pin that I didn't have so their on order.IMG_20210327_124655.jpg
 
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