My New Injection Pump Is Here!

[bowtiebutler956]

I don't mind Michigan winters a lot of the time (it gives me a chance to play with my garden tractors in a different way), but I wouldn't mind if it was a little shorter. I don't have a frost-proof water situation to my barn at the moment, and I miss washing my hands out there. Oh yeah, and the whole thing where I have to spend an hour clearing the driveway before I can work on the stuff that I WANT to work on can be a drag too. Then again, I'm not a big fan of sweating either, so I don't think I'd dig Texas for too long. I guess there's just no pleasing me.

Sorry for the hijack...carry on!

That wasn't a hijack Nate. I always like talking about the weather, as long as I'm not the one shivering!

I'm very interested to see what you get when you turn the fuel up. That isn't too much coal at all. By comparison your coal and spool time on your turbo is a lot quicker than what I see in my setup. How does your truck respond when you try to spool up from cruising at a low RPM?

I guess I'm surprised that yours doesn't spool as fast as mine. Your running an HX35, and I figured it would spool as fast as my turbo. My spool time is quick, even if I only apply 1/2 throttle at slow cruise speeds. Now if I mash it, it downshifts, and thats an instant 15+ psi. I still haven't turned up my pump, as I had to do some suspension work on my truck, but I will soon.

Incredibly jealous. I finally am gonna have enough money for my 375HP Southbend and suddenly want to spend it on a built pump instead Which I know would still mean nothing if my clutch can't handle it now but damn, that is nice!! Congrats!

Thanks 6.5L. Shoot, I've spent alot of time being jealous of your truck, especially watching your dyno sessions, and seeing 270+ to the rear wheels! I plan on hitting the dyno soon, as my local place here is $75 for 3 runs, but I want to make sure I'm as ready as I can get. With my truck being an auto, I doubt I'll see numbers as good as yours, but I'm hoping for 240+ at the rear. Once you get your clutch done, will you be hitting the dyno again? As I recall, you best dyno #'s were recorded with your ATT, and quick spool valve, right? I'd be curious what your present combo is making.

Matt

 

[bowtiebutler956]

I don't mind Michigan winters a lot of the time (it gives me a chance to play with my garden tractors in a different way), but I wouldn't mind if it was a little shorter. I don't have a frost-proof water situation to my barn at the moment, and I miss washing my hands out there. Oh yeah, and the whole thing where I have to spend an hour clearing the driveway before I can work on the stuff that I WANT to work on can be a drag too. Then again, I'm not a big fan of sweating either, so I don't think I'd dig Texas for too long. I guess there's just no pleasing me.

Sorry for the hijack...carry on!

I meant to ask. Nate, what kind of garden tractors do you have? I have several that I love, my Case 222, and 444, along with my Wheel Horse B-80. I traded my Wheel Horse C-160 for this truck, and while I feel I got a great deal, I miss my C-160.

Matt

 

[6.5L]

My best dyno run was with the ATT by itself. That was 274/430. With the ATT and large housing it was 260/400. With the ATT and diverter valve, it was 254/430. I lost 25hp but I also made peak torque at a lower RPM and it was much more streetable and still provided great top end. Then the GM3.....that was an embarrassing 203/330 haha And with an automatic, I wouldn't expect low numbers. You have some more rotating weight but once the TC is locked up, there shouln't be that much of a loss over a manual. And you can keep spool between gears. With my manual and the dyno I'm on, I basically end up more or less trying to spool from a dead stop, so I actually feel that the torque I throw on the dyno is less than what I am actually making on the street. And bring that $75 for 3 runs out here. I'm forking $100 and knowing G&J it's probably gone up since I have been on the rollers last. But yeah, once I get my clutch in, I plan on hitting the rollers again. I still have some tuning to do. But I am really hoping for this Spring to be on the rollers. Depends. I got a slight leak from my radiator and I think my valve cover is leaking slightly, and I think my power steering lines are leaking as well....which makes sense, since I just replaced them like 3 months ago Cheap ass shit

 

[n8in8or]

I meant to ask. Nate, what kind of garden tractors do you have? I have several that I love, my Case 222, and 444, along with my Wheel Horse B-80. I traded my Wheel Horse C-160 for this truck, and while I feel I got a great deal, I miss my C-160.

Matt

Yeah, I'd say you got a good deal on your truck, though I know those Wheel Horses can go for good money. I've always thought those Cases were sweet garden tractors....they look heavy duty as heck!! I used to be a tube frame Bolens guy, but then we got a new house with a nice yard that was also larger so I wanted a larger tractor with a nicer deck...so now I'm running old Simplicity 7016s. I'm also starting to dabble in Ariens/New Hollands but I don't know how much I'm liking them yet...other than they're keeping the abuse off my Simplicities

My best dyno run was with the ATT by itself. That was 274/430. With the ATT and large housing it was 260/400. With the ATT and diverter valve, it was 254/430. I lost 25hp but I also made peak torque at a lower RPM and it was much more streetable and still provided great top end. Then the GM3.....that was an embarrassing 203/330 haha And with an automatic, I wouldn't expect low numbers. You have some more rotating weight but once the TC is locked up, there shouln't be that much of a loss over a manual. And you can keep spool between gears. With my manual and the dyno I'm on, I basically end up more or less trying to spool from a dead stop, so I actually feel that the torque I throw on the dyno is less than what I am actually making on the street. And bring that $75 for 3 runs out here. I'm forking $100 and knowing G&J it's probably gone up since I have been on the rollers last. But yeah, once I get my clutch in, I plan on hitting the rollers again. I still have some tuning to do. But I am really hoping for this Spring to be on the rollers. Depends. I got a slight leak from my radiator and I think my valve cover is leaking slightly, and I think my power steering lines are leaking as well....which makes sense, since I just replaced them like 3 months ago Cheap ass shit

6.5l, interesting notes from the dyno. So if/when you go back, you're taking a camera again and sharing, RIGHT!!!???

 

[bowtiebutler956]

Yeah, I'd say you got a good deal on your truck, though I know those Wheel Horses can go for good money. I've always thought those Cases were sweet garden tractors....they look heavy duty as heck!! I used to be a tube frame Bolens guy, but then we got a new house with a nice yard that was also larger so I wanted a larger tractor with a nicer deck...so now I'm running old Simplicity 7016s. I'm also starting to dabble in Ariens/New Hollands but I don't know how much I'm liking them yet...other than they're keeping the abuse off my Simplicities

I know this is getting a little off topic, but I figure I can get away with it in my thread. I though I'd post a few pics of my GT's. The 3rd pic is with my two youngest boys. The little orange tractor is a 1952 Bantam 3000 I've owned since I was a kid. I restored it, and gave it to Danny on his 7th birthday. The minibike, is one my son Nathan, and I did together. Its meant to look vintage, and has a 1949 Briggs Model N powering it.

Matt

 

[n8in8or]

Really nice!! Your GTs are a lot prettier than mine! My brother has a small Bantam like that but it's in a project state still. I won't pollute your thread with more pics but I'll share some with you soon.

Good lookin' boys and tractors you have there. I bet they're loving the 6.5 upgrades right along with you!

 

[Jorge6.5]

That mower has a stack. Awesome!

 

[6.5L]

Yeah, I got my GoPro I can setup....needs a new battery, but I do plan on taking it. Or some poor sap to come film it anyways if I can't get a battery haha

 

[n8in8or]

Well I'm a little far away from you, but I'd be happy to help the cause if I could. Keep up the good work!!

 

[devildogadam]

Wow. My grandpa had one of those wheel horses. But my father and I always loved the cub cadets. Then we started playing with farm all A & B, then I had my H now we are play with 506s & 706 wheatland. Got love those old farm tractors

 

[Burning oil]

Looks like rebuiding that Wheel Horse was right in your Wheel House

 

[WarWagon]

My best dyno run was with the ATT by itself. That was 274/430. With the ATT and large housing it was 260/400. With the ATT and diverter valve, it was 254/430. I lost 25hp but I also made peak torque at a lower RPM and it was much more streetable and still provided great top end. Then the GM3.....that was an embarrassing 203/330 haha And with an automatic, I wouldn't expect low numbers. You have some more rotating weight but once the TC is locked up, there shouln't be that much of a loss over a manual. And you can keep spool between gears. With my manual and the dyno I'm on, I basically end up more or less trying to spool from a dead stop, so I actually feel that the torque I throw on the dyno is less than what I am actually making on the street. And bring that $75 for 3 runs out here. I'm forking $100 and knowing G&J it's probably gone up since I have been on the rollers last. But yeah, once I get my clutch in, I plan on hitting the rollers again. I still have some tuning to do. But I am really hoping for this Spring to be on the rollers. Depends. I got a slight leak from my radiator and I think my valve cover is leaking slightly, and I think my power steering lines are leaking as well....which makes sense, since I just replaced them like 3 months ago Cheap ass shit

The 4L80E is notorious for power loss. Positive displacement pump, clutch/band drag area, weight. Rumored to eat 50 HP. All auto transmissions take some power and TQ to work - always more than a MT. Example of Mythbusters: a weak 4L60E vs. a 4L80E. Regardless blowing unfashionable smoke at the limit of what fuel I can stuff in the engine I am truly ~50 HP under your numbers and under ~25 TQ. Dyno and precups aside. TCC lock with switch eliminates the TCC although IMO the factory TCC clutch can't hold WOT very well.

 

[bowtiebutler956]

Just a quick update. My cheap "improved" heads should be here tomorrow according to Fedex, and I'll post lots of pics, whether they're good, bad, or ugly. I'm prepared to be disappointed.
My head studs from Leroy should be here tomorrow as well. Thanks Leroy.

Matt

 

[n8in8or]

Can't wait to see the pics!

 

[WarWagon]

Just a quick update. My cheap "improved" heads should be here tomorrow according to Fedex, and I'll post lots of pics, whether they're good, bad, or ugly. I'm prepared to be disappointed.
My head studs from Leroy should be here tomorrow as well. Thanks Leroy.

Matt

For some reason I have visions of head studs holding down little chunks of "improved" heads when you find the limits of them.

 

[bowtiebutler956]

For some reason I have visions of head studs holding down little chunks of "improved" heads when you find the limits of them.

Your such an encouragement WarWagon! I remember you putting those type of visuals in my head way back when I was assembling my engine that had a crack in the block. I can always count on you.

Matt

 

[Paveltolz]

For some reason I have visions of head studs holding down little chunks of "improved" heads when you find the limits of them.

"Always with the negative waves Moriariy, always with the Negative Waves!"

 

[turbovanman]

That mower has a stack. Awesome!

They had stacks before stacks were cool,

 

[bowtiebutler956]

Once I get my truck back together, my plan is this. Turn the boost down until its rolling coal, then slowly turn the boost up, until its burning all the fuel my IP will pump, and no going past 20. I ran with my wastegate set at 18 for a long while, with the occasional surge to 20, and that was with TTY bolts, and cheap head gaskets. I never had a problem until turning it up to 30 for a couple WOT runs, although I had already dialed it back to 25 when the head gasket blew, because 30 seemed to actually hurt performance. No doubt, my drive pressure was getting high. In the video I did of my drive pressure awhile back, I only tested it to just a little past 20 lbs boost, at which point I was at 1.5-1. Thats not to bad, but it probably gets worse at higher boost levels.

Matt

 

[turbovanman]

You can go passed 20, I ran 22 for a year, only reason I haven't gone back to it is MPG and too lazy to turn up the IP.