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Moose Call...

WarWagon

Well it hits on 7 of 8...
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Location
AZ
Remembering now... I didn't always have hard starting cold. Initially needed advance with a pump replacement and always thought the pump was wonky as the high initial advance would over-advance it at other hot engine throttle settings. Took awhile to get it set right. The pump before it had hot start problems and interestingly enough didn't need the big advance.

So I am not blaming the hard starting problems on the high-pop, but, it looks like they may contribute if not being totally ruined for whatever reason.
 

WarWagon

Well it hits on 7 of 8...
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Location
AZ
I just remembered. Before I advanced my timing, it would smoke at start up even when the engine was warm. I think you need just a little more advance BUT I don’t want to give you bad advice and have you advance yours too much since you say it’s already rattley. You don’t know anyone nearby with a Ferret adapter so you can check your timing, do you?
Finally got around to doing some work on Patch. Cleaning the used replacement timing cover off I find there are actually two timing lines on it. :confused: So I set the timing to the more advanced mark. This eliminated the white smoke cloud/fog couple cylinders or more are not firing startups.

I have more work to do including maybe renting the tools to set the timing.
 

n8in8or

Well-Known Member
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Location
Kalamazoo, MI
Finally got around to doing some work on Patch. Cleaning the used replacement timing cover off I find there are actually two timing lines on it. :confused: So I set the timing to the more advanced mark. This eliminated the white smoke cloud/fog couple cylinders or more are not firing startups.

I have more work to do including maybe renting the tools to set the timing.
Excellent!
 

WarWagon

Well it hits on 7 of 8...
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3,602
Location
AZ
Getting new injectors of the IP builder's recommended pop pressure put in. Haven't hit the starter yet due to rebuilding the AC and moving the trans oil cooler to behind the condenser.

A shout out to Dorman for the 904-101 kit with an improved injector return line clamp. New Clamp Design on the left (pic old OEM style clamp on right) doesn't require you to get both the fing tabs in the pliers to put on. About damn time! It's the little things sometimes. (Do not get me started on the braided push on soaked in fuel cracked up leakers that claim to be clampless easy. If it's worth doing: do it right the first time esp. under the turbo...)

moose_mister.jpg

clamp.jpg
 

Will L.

Well-Known Member
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8,453
Location
Boulder City Nv
Gotta say it here man..
The new standard.
Stainless steel “T” that screws into the ip. Solid stainless tube from ffm to the T. And the other side of the T feeds pressure gauge.

I know you hooked up pressure gauge to the drain fitting location. This rare issue is perfect reason I always want the gauge tapped of the IP fitting. At least the headache quest is over. (I hope).

Seen this before, just not usually right at the ip fitting.

Was that hose sae30r9? As much alcohol as they put in our fuel, it wouldn’t surprise me if it even destroyed the good stuff.
 

WarWagon

Well it hits on 7 of 8...
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Location
AZ
Timing pinned max advance, under 10 psi boost, under 1000 EGT (fing embarrassing.) And still slow accel snap test with misfire. @Will L. Reminded me to put a clear line on to ck for air. This only showed cloudy during a snap - aka vapor lock. I hope the screen in the IP nose isn't clogged from this hose. I will know when it cools down enough to open garage doors to run it. AC on in garage...
 

WarWagon

Well it hits on 7 of 8...
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Location
AZ
Not done tracking it down. :facepalm:

Timing pinned with new hose: (Yes, I know the heater hose is leaking.)


In cab tach view:

 

n8in8or

Well-Known Member
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Kalamazoo, MI
Without boost the Puff Limiter is holding the fuel back. Could that be it? I know when I had mine cranked way down even with boost I really struggled to gain RPM.
 

Will L.

Well-Known Member
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Location
Boulder City Nv
Don't forget to post the last video, and show us the dead cylinder cause.
[We were texting and he sent a videoCranking the engine over Without fuel. One dead hole]
 
Last edited:

WarWagon

Well it hits on 7 of 8...
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Location
AZ
Redline is 3600 RPM. Let that sink in a second. Especially for an IDI Diesel. It was never said that the engine the last pump I had failed with valve problems. I was surprised when a snap emmisions test spun up to and maybe over 4000 RPM. The last owner parted out and really didn't know.

Regardless the Moose pump also goes for 4000 RPM. The valve springs can be as old as 1992 on this engine.

Yeah, overspeed in worst case No Load condition for emmisions snap test.

We can bet I have bent valves.
 

WarWagon

Well it hits on 7 of 8...
Messages
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3,602
Location
AZ
Me? Abuse a cold engine? :nailbiting: Its 104 out and the 140 degree switch for fast idle and cold advance kicked off.

Does it hot as well.
 
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