- Staff
- #21
As old Smokey Yunick once said about synthetic oil after using it for awhile, "I don't know what they charge for that stuff, but they ought to double it".
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Mobil 1 15W40 Full Synthetic Diesel Oil
- Thread starter RI Chevy Silveradoman
- Start date
- Staff
- #22
I do full synthetic in all my stuff as well.
I guess I was a bit outdated. I knew about the Amsoil diesel synthetics and different weights. And I knew that most other diesel oils 15w40 was dino and 5w40 was synthetic. I was completely unaware of all the newer synthetics in various weights. It's good that we have options.
I'm just not an Amsoil guy, sorry...
The Tribodyne oil intriges me, but...ouch...
I guess I was a bit outdated. I knew about the Amsoil diesel synthetics and different weights. And I knew that most other diesel oils 15w40 was dino and 5w40 was synthetic. I was completely unaware of all the newer synthetics in various weights. It's good that we have options.
I'm just not an Amsoil guy, sorry...
The Tribodyne oil intriges me, but...ouch...
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
as for me on the Tribodyne oil, I would have to have a new engine to justify the cost. I know some of the newer gassers and diesels do require synthetics now. I'm sure Mobil came out with the 15-40 synthetic to keep up with the times. I feel like the further forward we go into the future the more synthetics we will see vs the dino stuff. part of it is the push away from fossil fuels and oils.
for me and my truck, it has 287 right now tipping 300k it's on it's first run with synthetic oils since I have owned it. I remember the PO had told me he always ran Delo 15-40 dino oil in it and was fairly good on the changes. when I bought it, it did have several leaks, mainly the valve covers. as it is now it doesn't leave any spots on the driveway, so that is a good thing. I hope that I don't start seeing a rear main begin to leak with the synthetic. although my engine is on borrowed time now anyway, as soon as our taxes are done hoping we see a decent return along with saving my pennies, I plan to begin looking for a replacement motor or a donnor parts truck that runs.
sometime early next month I plan to get my old dodge street legal again (been sitting under the pecan tree for over a year) so that I can park this one to do some needed work. plan to get the 373 gears installed, swap the dash, and install some sound proofing insulation in the cab along with fixing the AC again since it keeps leaking down.
for me and my truck, it has 287 right now tipping 300k it's on it's first run with synthetic oils since I have owned it. I remember the PO had told me he always ran Delo 15-40 dino oil in it and was fairly good on the changes. when I bought it, it did have several leaks, mainly the valve covers. as it is now it doesn't leave any spots on the driveway, so that is a good thing. I hope that I don't start seeing a rear main begin to leak with the synthetic. although my engine is on borrowed time now anyway, as soon as our taxes are done hoping we see a decent return along with saving my pennies, I plan to begin looking for a replacement motor or a donnor parts truck that runs.
sometime early next month I plan to get my old dodge street legal again (been sitting under the pecan tree for over a year) so that I can park this one to do some needed work. plan to get the 373 gears installed, swap the dash, and install some sound proofing insulation in the cab along with fixing the AC again since it keeps leaking down.
- Staff
- #24
Cool. Chevron Delo is some good oil.
I'm going to run my Duramax until it dies. Which I think the chassis will deteriorate before the engine expires.
I'm going to run my Duramax until it dies. Which I think the chassis will deteriorate before the engine expires.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
you can always drop that d-max in a rat rod or a square body chevy with your chassis gives up the ghost! or be the one and only short body tahoe with a d-max under the hood and be the envy of everyoneCool. Chevron Delo is some good oil.
I'm going to run my Duramax until it dies. Which I think the chassis will deteriorate before the engine expires.
- Staff
- #26
I'd like to find a nice late 60s, early 70s chevy pickup body and do the transformation.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
I'm sure if you come visit here in Texas, you'll find one in decent shape. just undercoat the helloutof it so it survives the salty roads up tthere
NVW
Well-Known Member
That would be a real "Sleeper"
JayTheCPA
Well-Known Member
Did y'all color inside the lines or what...!
Forget putting a DMax into another truck or SUV. Been-Done.
DMax in a '50s long body Cadillac convertible. Or '60s DeVille convertible.
Forget putting a DMax into another truck or SUV. Been-Done.
DMax in a '50s long body Cadillac convertible. Or '60s DeVille convertible.
- Staff
- #30
Oh no...I'm gettin the flock outta here. Going to where there is no salt used.I'm sure if you come visit here in Texas, you'll find one in decent shape. just undercoat the helloutof it so it survives the salty roads up tthere
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Just be sure to steer clear around all the mandate happy states and cities lol
I am looking at other compartments like the differential for Tribodyne.
My "New" Cummins 6.7 Engine is a 6 month oil change for warranty purposes. It's almost a waste of the Shell T6 at 6 months. On the other hand 2018 is one of the last flat tappet engines made. 2019+ is a roller cam with 1 year oil change intervals.
Other New 6.0L GM Gas engine is 1 year OCI and a PF48 "micro" oil filter that has zero extra capacity.
They just had a Aisin trans failure due to an improper leak repair over on The TDR. FCA asked for the 30,000 mile oil change proof. It was Amsoil trans fluid used. No problems from FCA over it's use and they warrantied the transmission.
AISIN leaking
Not sure how there can be a sensor on the torque converter. I am only repeating what he said that there is only one temp sensor and it’s on the valve...
www.turbodieselregister.com
- Staff
- #33
I went to synthetic on every small engine I own on the farm. Which is many of em...I don't even remember offhand how many. 2 and 4 cycle.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Had a text about why (imo) not run the real expensive stuff in higher engines over 200,000. Figured share here.
Leaks. Full synthetic oils on previous conventional oil is known for leaks. If you leak away a lot of it that gets too pricy imo. Seal it up then that issue is gone.
Burning it. Get a provent or similar on there and you solve that issue also.
So don’t take it that it’s A mistake to do it, just that I think putting expensive oil in the road makes it hard to justify the cost.
Leaks. Full synthetic oils on previous conventional oil is known for leaks. If you leak away a lot of it that gets too pricy imo. Seal it up then that issue is gone.
Burning it. Get a provent or similar on there and you solve that issue also.
So don’t take it that it’s A mistake to do it, just that I think putting expensive oil in the road makes it hard to justify the cost.
- Staff
- #35
Very true
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
It seems that I once read that there is nothing synthetic about synthetic motor oil.
Only that the molecules have been sorted in size so that all the molecules in a jug of oil is all about the same size.
I would have thought that if it was synthetic that it would have been like pure teflon or some such.
Only that the molecules have been sorted in size so that all the molecules in a jug of oil is all about the same size.
I would have thought that if it was synthetic that it would have been like pure teflon or some such.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
This is gonna be a cause for me to learn how synthetic oil is made! I always thought it was "man made" using other things than refined dino oil from mother earth like made in a lab. potion #5 lol I might be wrong!It seems that I once read that there is nothing synthetic about synthetic motor oil.
Only that the molecules have been sorted in size so that all the molecules in a jug of oil is all about the same size.
I would have thought that if it was synthetic that it would have been like pure teflon or some such.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
A really horrible description I probably shouldn’t be doing after midnight when tired but...
I am copying about half this from how the oil engineers explained it to me.
Basically take crude oil and cook it under pressure and the long molecular chain breaks making shorter chains.
Long chain is asphalt, shorter gear oil, shorter engine oil, shorter diesel fuel, shorter gasoline, shorter propane. It’s all the same stuff, hydrocarbon molecular chain length.
So 90 wt is longer chain than 50wt.
So how to make synthetic... take the finished oil and cook it again. There is obviously some technical details, but that’s the basics.
When you cook it- imagine throwing a piece of raw bacon into a frying pan already full of hot oil like you would deep fry chicken. That bacon is gonna wiggle and jerk around. But here is where the analogy goes wrong. Bacon shrinks/ The chain doesn’t. Eventually the chain just wiggles so much it breaks. When it breaks each half recoils a little bit like a spring on the end where it got ‘worked’ the most before breaking. The broken end instead of staying straight curls a tiny bit. Ever bend metal back and forth until it breaks. Similar.
Now. A different analogy. In a bank, the pen held to the desk by the chain that is made of little metal balls. You now have conventional oil, and you are going to re cook it to make it synthetic. The cooking process breaks the chain to smaller size chains again. But this time because the chain is kind of tempered already from the first cooking, it reacts very different when is breaks. When before that long ball chain had one little ball that curled up a tiny amount at the end, now when it breaks the whole chain springs into a ball shape- like as if you was holding the hole chain inside your fist.
How does this help: take the original bank pen chain and hold it tight on top of the desk, and pull the chain over the edge forcefully. It will wear a tiny cut into the desk. Now do it a thousand times. You have a deep grove cut into the desk.
Now the synthetic: ball up that chain and pull it over the edge. It will have almost no wear on that edge. It is spreading the load over a larger surface area. The chain is kind of spring loaded to keep that ball shape. So even as it flexes a little going over the edge, it springs back into the ball. Not do it that same amount of times and your wear on the desk corner will be way less.
Yeah- people think synthetic and imagine conventional means natural and synthetic must be man made. There is some companies that do things like combining multiple chemicals to meet another standard of synthetic. And some make 1 gallon of synthetic and mix it with 9 gallons conventional and get 10 gallons of synthetic- but luckily gubmint caught on to this and made rules that say they have to call both of those semi-synthetic.
1 gallon of synthetic mixed with nothing except additives and still only 1.001 gallons is full synthetic.
How good the original crude is, how good the conventional oil is, how good the cooking process is on both steps, and the additives they put in all determines how good the finished synthetic oil ends up.
I am copying about half this from how the oil engineers explained it to me.
Basically take crude oil and cook it under pressure and the long molecular chain breaks making shorter chains.
Long chain is asphalt, shorter gear oil, shorter engine oil, shorter diesel fuel, shorter gasoline, shorter propane. It’s all the same stuff, hydrocarbon molecular chain length.
So 90 wt is longer chain than 50wt.
So how to make synthetic... take the finished oil and cook it again. There is obviously some technical details, but that’s the basics.
When you cook it- imagine throwing a piece of raw bacon into a frying pan already full of hot oil like you would deep fry chicken. That bacon is gonna wiggle and jerk around. But here is where the analogy goes wrong. Bacon shrinks/ The chain doesn’t. Eventually the chain just wiggles so much it breaks. When it breaks each half recoils a little bit like a spring on the end where it got ‘worked’ the most before breaking. The broken end instead of staying straight curls a tiny bit. Ever bend metal back and forth until it breaks. Similar.
Now. A different analogy. In a bank, the pen held to the desk by the chain that is made of little metal balls. You now have conventional oil, and you are going to re cook it to make it synthetic. The cooking process breaks the chain to smaller size chains again. But this time because the chain is kind of tempered already from the first cooking, it reacts very different when is breaks. When before that long ball chain had one little ball that curled up a tiny amount at the end, now when it breaks the whole chain springs into a ball shape- like as if you was holding the hole chain inside your fist.
How does this help: take the original bank pen chain and hold it tight on top of the desk, and pull the chain over the edge forcefully. It will wear a tiny cut into the desk. Now do it a thousand times. You have a deep grove cut into the desk.
Now the synthetic: ball up that chain and pull it over the edge. It will have almost no wear on that edge. It is spreading the load over a larger surface area. The chain is kind of spring loaded to keep that ball shape. So even as it flexes a little going over the edge, it springs back into the ball. Not do it that same amount of times and your wear on the desk corner will be way less.
Yeah- people think synthetic and imagine conventional means natural and synthetic must be man made. There is some companies that do things like combining multiple chemicals to meet another standard of synthetic. And some make 1 gallon of synthetic and mix it with 9 gallons conventional and get 10 gallons of synthetic- but luckily gubmint caught on to this and made rules that say they have to call both of those semi-synthetic.
1 gallon of synthetic mixed with nothing except additives and still only 1.001 gallons is full synthetic.
How good the original crude is, how good the conventional oil is, how good the cooking process is on both steps, and the additives they put in all determines how good the finished synthetic oil ends up.
- Staff
- #39
I thought Mobil 1 oil comes from a better more refined base stock? With a better additive package? As compared to some of the other oils out there.
BIGR
Lucky To Be Here
I run this oil in my truck. Use to put Shell Rotella 15w-40 dino in it, but switched a few years ago.
The picture is a 2.5 gallon jug that I have had laying around for a few years. It does not say anything about being a synthetic blend, but now on Mobile's website, it says it is a synthetic blend. I assume at some point they must have changed the formula and made it a synthetic blend?
One question? What's the shelf life of that oil. I have had that 2.5 gallon jug in the basement for I know 4 years or longer. Just never got around to using it and truthfully had forgot about it being stashed over in the corner. Coming up on oil change time and was thinking about using it, just concerned about if it's lost any of its lubrication properties.
The picture is a 2.5 gallon jug that I have had laying around for a few years. It does not say anything about being a synthetic blend, but now on Mobile's website, it says it is a synthetic blend. I assume at some point they must have changed the formula and made it a synthetic blend?
One question? What's the shelf life of that oil. I have had that 2.5 gallon jug in the basement for I know 4 years or longer. Just never got around to using it and truthfully had forgot about it being stashed over in the corner. Coming up on oil change time and was thinking about using it, just concerned about if it's lost any of its lubrication properties.