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Lift Pump Not Working, Where to Start

And it’s a no start. Did have fuel coming out of disconnected return line at the first injector on the drivers side. Had knocked off 2 return hoses with my fat hand. Cut and reinstalled but no go. I don’t have a 2nd person to crank the engine while I inspect as my wife left for Montana this am.
 
Injector lines loose at the injectors ? Might have to remove as many GPz as possible to het better cranking speed.
Thats what I had to do after replacing T chain/sprockets, injectors etc.
 
MrMarty51 said:
Injector lines loose at the injectors ? Might have to remove as many GPz as possible to het better cranking speed.
Thats what I had to do after replacing T chain/sprockets, injectors etc.
Click to expand...

With fresh batteries and starter, it was cranking more than fast enough. Should have at least gotten a semblance of ignition. What would removing glows do? Crank faster to get fuel through the system?
 
It also helps purge the air out of the lines. Air compresses so the pressure in the cylinder will compress the air in the lines and act kinda like a spring. So by removing the pressure in the cylinder it makes it easier to push the air through the lines.

You might also consider plugging it in, extra heat never hurts
 
After I got done with the tuneup and timing chain components on My 6.5, it would not start.
Loosened the injector tubes from the injectors and cranked until there was fuel at the nuts, tightened down those couple, cranked some more until fuel emitted from a couple more, tightened down those, cranked a little more and the engine fired up, tightened down the rest of the nuts as fuel started emitting from those too.
It did require some patience and what I thought was a very long time of cranking before fuel began to emit from the first couple of injector fittings.
I did not totally remove the nuts from the injectors, just loosened them two or three turns then tapped on them and wiggled them to make sure that they broke seal. Just because the nuts are loosened does not mean that the injector line/tube is loose. It usually takes several taps on the tube to pop them free of the flange.
 
Big T said:
With fresh batteries and starter, it was cranking more than fast enough. Should have at least gotten a semblance of ignition. What would removing glows do? Crank faster to get fuel through the system?
Click to expand...

Just have the easy glow plugs out in the first two videos.



 
Big T said:
OK I will crack injector lines and crank it. Mine was cranking faster than yours.
Click to expand...
Just crack the easiest ones to get to. Once it starts pumping fuel from four or five fittings, the engine will start after the nutz is tightened down then the air will purge from the injectors that are not so accessible and it will then run on all eight.
 
Big T said:
OK I will crack injector lines and crank it. Mine was cranking faster than yours.
Click to expand...

I have glow plugs out with injector nuts tight. This is why I get the fuel mist. With the mist I put the glow plugs back in and 3rd video it lights off. (Yeah those batteries burnt the side posts out internally two weeks later. So I put top post connectors on it.)
 
With air in the lines, I have had problems with the fuel compressing the air enough to blow the fuel through the injector. Thats why I always loosen the injector end of the line nuts.
 
That's why you have a problem bleeding the air . Take the glow plugs out , leave the lines tight and crank it over with your foot on the floor . It's the rpms that bleed the air . I did a 95 like WW did except all the glows were out . A lot of misting . He basically had the entire fuel system apart and that means air in everything . It's going to be a PIA to get all the air out . Hook up a battery charger and crank it .
 
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