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I've decided to do a Cummin's conversion

Well, I blew the center bearing out of its bracket I suspect the spline section is binding the rubber was weak time for a ploy unit.
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Center bearings are annoying, but thank goodness it is like a built in driveline safety loop.

Depending how many miles and how empty the wallet is, center bearing time is when I like to take entire drive line (s) to a driveline shop, and do a rebuild and balance. The drivline shops usually do enough volume in parts that they sell them same range as parts houses. And having them do all the ujoints at once and balanced at same time tends to get you a discount that offsets most labor of them changing ujoints.

That is, unless your favorite thing to donis carrier bearing replacement. I dont want to take away your fun. Even if you want that done yourself, I still recommend balaning at that point.

A before picture regarding timing connecions is always nice. Some guys will stamp 2 ajoining ujoint ears like you do piston rods...
 
My shafts are clearly marked so no problems arise, I removed the driveshafts laid them out on a work bench and determined rubber fatigue was part of the problem but the splines section seems to be a bit tight on the slide so I'm going to use nano lube particles mixed into AMSOIL synthetic grease on it and install a new style solid polyurethane body center bearing assembly.
 
Husker6.5 said:
You're probably right about that, @ak diesel driver ! Of course, never overlook the "Dirty Old Man" syndrome that always takes the opportunity, when presented, to put a twist on what at first glance is just an innocuous comment by another poster!
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DOM, my favorite tubing and my favorite old guys.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
Still running it as a 2 wheel drive, or did you get the 4x4 wrapped up?
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I'm doing 2wd drive until I get everything else squared away in the next few months I'll do the 4x4.

A college level automotive teacher who is a member over at 4bt had used a modified torsion bar x-member to install the 47rh & NP241c t-case in his conversion some 10 years ago and never had issues its still a DD..

The mod consists of welding a rectangular tube channel across the back of the t-bar x-member then cutting out the center of the original x-member to within one inch of each key adjuster then boxing everything and moving the x-member back just until the full hex only of the torsion bars is in x-member this gives the needed space to install the 47rh & NP 241c.

However; additionally the fixed x-member behind the t-bar x-member needs to have rivets removed and replaced with bolts because the transmission and t-case will not go in with that x-member in place.

So the Cummins w/47RH and NP241c will fit after the x-member mods......
 
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Not sure if this was covered, but what are people doing for cruise control? I was thinking possibly integrating a GMT400 gas cruise servo/cable where the dodge vacuum cruise servo goes so as to maintain the stock cruise control-controls, but I really have no idea if it's at all possible. I'll be keeping my 4L80E, and with that a standalone controller, but have to keep the normal computer so everything else functions. I cant imagine the gas and diesel computers are too different, but the late 6.5s were throttle by wire. long story short, I have no idea how to accomplish this.
 
usanumber1 said:
Not sure if this was covered, but what are people doing for cruise control? I was thinking possibly integrating a GMT400 gas cruise servo/cable where the dodge vacuum cruise servo goes so as to maintain the stock cruise control-controls, but I really have no idea if it's at all possible. I'll be keeping my 4L80E, and with that a standalone controller, but have to keep the normal computer so everything else functions. I cant imagine the gas and diesel computers are too different, but the late 6.5s were throttle by wire. long story short, I have no idea how to accomplish this.
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Do a search for gm diy cruise control. The 92-02 GM cruise control doesn't need much other than a 4k pulse per mile 5 volt square wave signal(same as the speedo), power, ground, 4 cruise switch wires, and a brake switch input that is n/c to power. The earlier 88-91 electric servo cruise is the same, but uses a 2k pulse per mile signal. They're one of the easiest to diy swap in there is.
 
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