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I've decided to do a Cummin's conversion

FellowTraveler

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Thread starter #322
Sorry, I've been remiss in posting updates and images....so....
Heater hoses to front/rear cores & troque converter heat exchanger are all MIL-SPEC silicone w/wrapped UV-OZONE barrier, the fan to radiator gap was increased using 1st gen Cummins pulley & attached to a 3rd gen hub bracket.
I'm rewiring for one battery.
The GM shifter cable looped from front of engine bay and modified 4L80 cable bracket are used w/Dodge linkage which shift pattern operating opposite GM's it shifts & operates nice and smooth.
Bottom image is lower radiator hose and Cummins charge air cooler (CAC) fit nice and clean looks factory too. DSCI0004.JPG DSCI0002.JPG DSCI0002.JPG DSCI0004.JPG DSCI0006.JPG DSCI0003.JPG DSCI0007.JPG DSCI0005.JPG
 

FellowTraveler

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I have both of my large B&M Hy Tek fin/plate coolers w/fans ready for mounting between the front chassis rails from the 1st x-member to the tailing edge of the front bumper.....waiting on AN-8 hose fittings for the SS braided Teflon hose and I will be using the newer gen. Ram Cummins torque converter plate cooler too.
DSCI0001.JPG DSCI0002.JPG
 
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Thread starter #324
Made some more head way with my conversion.

I installed a Teflon bushing on the shift cable at the shift lever.

Have the front transmission coolers assembled w/8-AN fittings using 500 degree F capacity Teflon braided hose from transmission to heat exchanger then to front coolers then Nylon SS 350 degree F capacity braided lines connecting coolers then back to hard line return to transmission.

DSCI0001.JPG DSCI0003.JPG
 
Last edited:

n8in8or

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Made some more head way with my conversion.

I installed a Teflon bushing on the shift cable at the shift lever.

Have the front transmission coolers assembled w/8-AN fittings using 500 degree F capacity Teflon braided hose from transmission to heat exchanger then to front coolers then Nylon SS 350 degree F capacity braided lines connecting coolers then back to hard line return to transmission.

View attachment 54304 View attachment 54305
That cooler setup looks neat and tidy. Nice.
 
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Thread starter #328
Looks like your tranny fluid will return barely lukewarm no matter how hard you work it! Nice! I noticed you have them plumbed in series vs parallel, good call. You get better temperature drop that way.
Thanks, I had put lot's of costy upgrades into the 47RH transmission and want to protect it as much as I can. OH and it was my first 47RH build too I was taken back by how easy it all was however, I had spent the most hours ever on any transmission with the valve body mods alone.
 
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If you decide you want to run a smaller trans cooler for space saving's, the earl's super cooler's are alot more efficient than those b&m coolers. I saw a significant drop in temps going from a b&m to the earls cooler.
Remember which models?
'These only have 3/16" gap at the chassis rails so real tight, I wonder why the Earls run cooler as the B&M's are fin/plate design?'
 

THEFERMANATOR

FRANKENBURBAN
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Staff #331
Remember which models?
'These only have 3/16" gap at the chassis rails so real tight, I wonder why the Earls run cooler as the B&M's are fin/plate design?'
I believe it was the 82510erl that I installed. The b&m cooler I found had horrible flow. The 1st 2 inches on the side of the fittings got hot, by the time you got to the other end it would be barely warm to the touch with trans temps at 190 degrees. The earl's cooler is built just like setrab coolers which are very high end coolers. It's a stacked plate deaign where the fluid runs across the entire width of the stacked plate instead of just through the little capilary passages like the b&m cooler does. I went with the b&m at 1st because I figured a stacked plate was a stacked plate, and the b&m cooler was a long made cooler just like GM used oem. But I had to switch to the earl's to keep trans temps in check because of how poor the airflow is through the gmt-400 grill.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-82510erl
 

FellowTraveler

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I believe it was the 82510erl that I installed. The b&m cooler I found had horrible flow. The 1st 2 inches on the side of the fittings got hot, by the time you got to the other end it would be barely warm to the touch with trans temps at 190 degrees. The earl's cooler is built just like setrab coolers which are very high end coolers. It's a stacked plate deaign where the fluid runs across the entire width of the stacked plate instead of just through the little capilary passages like the b&m cooler does. I went with the b&m at 1st because I figured a stacked plate was a stacked plate, and the b&m cooler was a long made cooler just like GM used oem. But I had to switch to the earl's to keep trans temps in check because of how poor the airflow is through the gmt-400 grill.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-82510erl
Interesting, it seems you had a B&M LONG 'low pressure drop' (LPD) cooler that didn't work correctly I had the same type of problem with a large LONG LPD cooler myself and "no the manufacturer didn't stand by the product."

As the aux coolers go worst to best performance are tube/fin, plate, then plate/fin which are supposed to be so efficient the size can be reduced in most applications.

Truthfully I was more worried about the 3rd gen Ram Cummins torque converter heat exchanger 'failure rate' until I read this.

I'll be monitoring these non-LPD B&M coolers "just in case" and if I have the same issue then it will be corrected using what you suggest.

Aa always "thanks for your input."
 
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