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Isuzu 4BD2T diesel swap into Suburban
- Thread starter Burning oil
- Start date
Its allways a learning curve. The next swap will go real fast.
This thing is so torquey. In gear at an idle it will pull up into my driveway and other inclines. I can maintain 30mph at 800-900 rpm.
We need it!
These are the expences put out on the swap.
Donor truck $3000
Engine hoist ram $49.97
P/S gear fittings $44.04
Bat cables $75.00
V belt 15460 $9.71 x3
Dayco Rad hose $13.99
4bd1 oil pan $100.
203 pilot bearing $4.95
Turbo drain tube $12.95
Rad over flow hose $2.15
Welding gas $23.64 and $46.85
Coolant recovery bottle $7.99
Thermo Tec header wrap $53.99
Trans cooler hose $9.00
Glow plug controler $75.59
Camera tripod $15.12
Trans fluid $45.
Engine oil $30.00
Oil filter $20
OptiShift $600
Engine to trans adapter $680
Intercooler $200
Silicone elbows & clamps $100
Turbo $250.00
T3 flanges $24.00
Exhaust elbows $60-80
Misc $300-500
Total $6093.36
I know I missed some stuff. Ya'll let me know what.
I still have the 6.5 that I will be selling. Assume selling at $1900
Scraped the NPR frame & cab for $500.
Cargo Box worth $1000 to me.
Total $3400.
$6093.36
-$3400.00
=$2693.36
Donor truck $3000
Engine hoist ram $49.97
P/S gear fittings $44.04
Bat cables $75.00
V belt 15460 $9.71 x3
Dayco Rad hose $13.99
4bd1 oil pan $100.
203 pilot bearing $4.95
Turbo drain tube $12.95
Rad over flow hose $2.15
Welding gas $23.64 and $46.85
Coolant recovery bottle $7.99
Thermo Tec header wrap $53.99
Trans cooler hose $9.00
Glow plug controler $75.59
Camera tripod $15.12
Trans fluid $45.
Engine oil $30.00
Oil filter $20
OptiShift $600
Engine to trans adapter $680
Intercooler $200
Silicone elbows & clamps $100
Turbo $250.00
T3 flanges $24.00
Exhaust elbows $60-80
Misc $300-500
Total $6093.36
I know I missed some stuff. Ya'll let me know what.
I still have the 6.5 that I will be selling. Assume selling at $1900
Scraped the NPR frame & cab for $500.
Cargo Box worth $1000 to me.
Total $3400.
$6093.36
-$3400.00
=$2693.36
Finaly got the engine shut down installed. Its a motor like a wiper motor that pushes and pulls the cable. I have been having to open the hood and shut it down this whole time. My brother figured out the wiring and we hooked it up with a weather thight relay.
Removed the silencer ring today.
Here is the fuel shut off motor.
Here is the fuel shut off motor.
few q's:
is a WTA IC really necessary?
what is the purpose of the p/s gear fitting?
is the Engine to trans adapter still avail? was word the guy was hard to reach.
if wishes came true and i already had the optishift, had the engine/parts, it would cost a little over 2000.00, if i didn't really need the WTA IC.
i had no idea what the silencer ring was, thanks for the pics/explanation. are you gonna run some test to see if there is a diff?
is a WTA IC really necessary?
what is the purpose of the p/s gear fitting?
is the Engine to trans adapter still avail? was word the guy was hard to reach.
if wishes came true and i already had the optishift, had the engine/parts, it would cost a little over 2000.00, if i didn't really need the WTA IC.
i had no idea what the silencer ring was, thanks for the pics/explanation. are you gonna run some test to see if there is a diff?
Really I could have save the intercooler costs. On a stock set up its not needed until you start put down some bigger #s. The turbo upgrade was an option also.
P/S gear fittings were just a way to get me to a flare style fitting since the stock hoses would not work with the mods I did. Could have save that money also.
There were some thing I did that drove up the cost of the swap. someone going stock engine and a stick would get it done very cheap.
The silencer ring just helps to keep the turbo whine down, but I have not noticed a difference. Im only getting 10psi though at the moment, would like to see 20psi
dka99burb
Member
This is awesome info Leroy. Any hwy mpg numbers yet?
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
Just stumbled onto this thread today, totally awesome job, Leroy! I've considered/daydreamed of dropping either a 4bt Cummins or now maybe a 4bd Isuzu into my '98 K2500 Burb when the 6.5 finally gives up the ghost, but with 199K on it that may be a while. I'd yank the 4L80E and drop an NV5600 into it if I did. Can't wait to see some long-term city/hwy fuel mileage numbers once you work the bugs out and have it to the point that you're willing to take a 500+ mile road trip with it, as well as some RW hp/torque numbers off a dyno. Could your low boost numbers be because of too big of a turbo on it, would a GMx work better (no, I do NOT want to start any of the flaming wars I saw over on the Place concerning turbos, that's why I'm here, instead) as it is as much science as it is art finding the right turbo for the application/intended use from what we have to chose from.
Not yet, but did get some good highway miles on it this last 250. Will top off tomorrow and report the #s
I would love to put it on a dyno. The turbo should be good for this motor. There is an ajustment screw holding me back from full throttle that I need to ajust and my shift points a set for MPGs. There is a second table that I can set up on the OptiShift for more performance or towing.
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
Well, lacking the accessibility/$ for a dyno run, there's always the fairly accurate standby of using the vehicle weight/time through a 1/4 mile drag to get a fairly accurate hp/torque "guesstimate".
Thats a good idea also. Do you have the details how to calculate it.
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
Yes and no. It's in a back issue of DieselPower I read last week in an article with all sorts of handy formulas to know, like calculating engine rpm from tire height/axle ratio/trans gearing (or finding any unknown variable from your knowns, like what rear to use if you switch to taller tires and want to run a certain rpm at a certain speed, etc). They had one for calculating hp/torque based off of vehicle weight and E.T. Now the problem for me is remembering which issue it was, out of the five years of back issues I have, I read it in last week. As soon as I find it, you'll be the second one to know (after me) and I'll put it on this thread, deal?
If I was'int lazy and going to bed now I would google it.
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
If I wasn't lazy and going to bed, I'd go downstairs and dig through the back issues I was looking at last week!
http://www.bahntech.com/products/Auto_Dyno/calculation_horsepower/default.asp
http://www.vettenet.org/torquehp.html
http://www.elec-toolbox.com/Formulas/Motor/mtrform.htm
To get from pound-feet of torque to horsepower, you need to go through a few conversions. The number 5,252 is the result of lumping several different conversion factors together into one number.
First, 1 horsepower is defined as 550 foot-pounds per second (read How Horsepower Works to find out how they got that number). The units of torque are pound-feet. So to get from torque to horsepower, you need the "per second" term. You get that by multiplying the torque by the engine speed.
But engine speed is normally referred to in revolutions per minute (RPM). Since we want a "per second," we need to convert RPMs to "something per second." The seconds are easy -- we just divide by 60 to get from minutes to seconds. Now what we need is a dimensionless unit for revolutions: a radian. A radian is actually a ratio of the length of an arc divided by the length of a radius, so the units of length cancel out and you're left with a dimensionless measure.
You can think of a revolution as a measurement of an angle. One revolution is 360 degrees of a circle. Since the circumference of a circle is (2 x pi x radius), there are 2-pi radians in a revolution. To convert revolutions per minute to radians per second, you multiply RPM by (2-pi/60), which equals 0.10472 radians per second. This gives us the "per second" we need to calculate horsepower.
Let's put this all together. We need to get to horsepower, which is 550 foot-pounds per second, using torque (pound-feet) and engine speed (RPM). If we divide the 550 foot-pounds by the 0.10472 radians per second (engine speed), we get 550/0.10472, which equals 5,252.
So if you multiply torque (in pound-feet) by engine speed (in RPM) and divide the product by 5,252, RPM is converted to "radians per second" and you can get from torque to horsepower -- from "pound-feet" to "foot-pounds per second."
http://www.vettenet.org/torquehp.html
http://www.elec-toolbox.com/Formulas/Motor/mtrform.htm
To get from pound-feet of torque to horsepower, you need to go through a few conversions. The number 5,252 is the result of lumping several different conversion factors together into one number.
First, 1 horsepower is defined as 550 foot-pounds per second (read How Horsepower Works to find out how they got that number). The units of torque are pound-feet. So to get from torque to horsepower, you need the "per second" term. You get that by multiplying the torque by the engine speed.
But engine speed is normally referred to in revolutions per minute (RPM). Since we want a "per second," we need to convert RPMs to "something per second." The seconds are easy -- we just divide by 60 to get from minutes to seconds. Now what we need is a dimensionless unit for revolutions: a radian. A radian is actually a ratio of the length of an arc divided by the length of a radius, so the units of length cancel out and you're left with a dimensionless measure.
You can think of a revolution as a measurement of an angle. One revolution is 360 degrees of a circle. Since the circumference of a circle is (2 x pi x radius), there are 2-pi radians in a revolution. To convert revolutions per minute to radians per second, you multiply RPM by (2-pi/60), which equals 0.10472 radians per second. This gives us the "per second" we need to calculate horsepower.
Let's put this all together. We need to get to horsepower, which is 550 foot-pounds per second, using torque (pound-feet) and engine speed (RPM). If we divide the 550 foot-pounds by the 0.10472 radians per second (engine speed), we get 550/0.10472, which equals 5,252.
So if you multiply torque (in pound-feet) by engine speed (in RPM) and divide the product by 5,252, RPM is converted to "radians per second" and you can get from torque to horsepower -- from "pound-feet" to "foot-pounds per second."
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
Found the issue of DieselPower, much simpler way to find HP based off of 1/4 mile E.T. and vehicle weight. From the Jan '09 issue:
CALCULATING HORSEPOWER FROM QUARTER-MILE ELAPSED TIME AND SPEED
E.T. divided by 5.825, then cube the result (multiply by itself three times, ie: 4x4x4) then divide the vehicle weight by that cubed number. That gives a very close number to the flywheel horsepower. To get RWHP, you must allow for driveline loss of about 20%, so take the number above and multiply by .8 to get RWHP. This is a very close approximation, but is subject to error due to things like traction problems, transmission slip, reaction time, turbo spooling, etc.
Here are two examples of number crunching:
Vehicle weight: 8,000lb. E.T. 15.9 sec. => 15.9 / 5.825 = 2.73 => 2.73 x 2.73 x 2.73 = 20.346 => 8,000 / 20.346 = 393 hp. 393 x .8 = 312 rwhp
V.W.: 7,200 lb. E.T. 11.55 sec. => 11.55 / 5.825 = 1.974 => 1.974 x 1.974 x 1.974 = 7.692 => 7,200 / 7.692 = 936 hp. 936 x .8 = 748 rwhp
Thanks to DieselPower for the numbers, the article can be found starting on page 144 of the Jan '09 issue.
So, let's pull some numbers out of our *ss for shits and giggles for Leroy's conversion project.
Let's assume a weight of 7,100 lbs including driver and a full tank of fuel for the Burb, and after getting his Optishift dialed in, he laid down a respectable 15.4 E.T. at the local 1/4 mile "midnight test run" location. Let's run the numbers:
15.4 / 5.825 = 2.644 => 2.644 x 2.644 x 2.644 = 18.484 (I'm rounding to the nearest 3 digits after the decimal point) => 7100 / 18.484 = 384.12 hp => 384.12 x .8 = 307.2 rwhp, a very realistic number. Using the S.W.A.G. method of hp to torque (torque is approximately twice rated flywheel hp) and you get 770 lb/ft at the flywheel and 615 on the ground.
Of course, nothing beats putting it on the rollers, but that even will vary from machine to machine as well as ambient conditions such as temp, humidity and roller traction will affect the results.
CALCULATING HORSEPOWER FROM QUARTER-MILE ELAPSED TIME AND SPEED
E.T. divided by 5.825, then cube the result (multiply by itself three times, ie: 4x4x4) then divide the vehicle weight by that cubed number. That gives a very close number to the flywheel horsepower. To get RWHP, you must allow for driveline loss of about 20%, so take the number above and multiply by .8 to get RWHP. This is a very close approximation, but is subject to error due to things like traction problems, transmission slip, reaction time, turbo spooling, etc.
Here are two examples of number crunching:
Vehicle weight: 8,000lb. E.T. 15.9 sec. => 15.9 / 5.825 = 2.73 => 2.73 x 2.73 x 2.73 = 20.346 => 8,000 / 20.346 = 393 hp. 393 x .8 = 312 rwhp
V.W.: 7,200 lb. E.T. 11.55 sec. => 11.55 / 5.825 = 1.974 => 1.974 x 1.974 x 1.974 = 7.692 => 7,200 / 7.692 = 936 hp. 936 x .8 = 748 rwhp
Thanks to DieselPower for the numbers, the article can be found starting on page 144 of the Jan '09 issue.
So, let's pull some numbers out of our *ss for shits and giggles for Leroy's conversion project.
Let's assume a weight of 7,100 lbs including driver and a full tank of fuel for the Burb, and after getting his Optishift dialed in, he laid down a respectable 15.4 E.T. at the local 1/4 mile "midnight test run" location. Let's run the numbers:
15.4 / 5.825 = 2.644 => 2.644 x 2.644 x 2.644 = 18.484 (I'm rounding to the nearest 3 digits after the decimal point) => 7100 / 18.484 = 384.12 hp => 384.12 x .8 = 307.2 rwhp, a very realistic number. Using the S.W.A.G. method of hp to torque (torque is approximately twice rated flywheel hp) and you get 770 lb/ft at the flywheel and 615 on the ground.
Of course, nothing beats putting it on the rollers, but that even will vary from machine to machine as well as ambient conditions such as temp, humidity and roller traction will affect the results.