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I'm cool, do you think I'm cool? I think I'm cool. (question on being cool)

Hink

Overkill Is Underrated
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So, In my old wore out motor, I used to run a consistent 175*.
After putting in the new motor (in my sig), I'm running about 134*, which seems awfully cool to me.

It will slowly go up to about 155* when I accelerate or up hills, but just barely. And I did get it up over 210* but it took me towing a 26' fifth wheel 65 - 70 mph up a grade in a head wind to do it. (No complaints there and more cooling mods will help that even more.)

Any thoughts on this? Is this normal/ok?
 

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Will L.

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To cool. In both ways. I think your thermostat is stuck wide open. I think your loosing about 10% power and 20% mpg.

What exactly are you running for fuel?
What's happening with your wmi?
 

WarWagon

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You know the exact temp how? The factory sender and gauge are not exactly calibrated.
 

Hink

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Dang, it's a pretty new 185* AC Delco.
I'm running just diesel right now to get the rings seated well like you guys said.

As for the WMI, after my last windmill job, I came home to this...
WP_20151122_16_22_10_Pro.jpg

That was my spare car so I'm down to only the truck for transportation. That and I'm going back to finish up some things on the last job for a month or so means that anything else I do on the truck will have to wait.
The weather will be better by then too, so this summer I'll get the Mercedes 240D on the road and have more time to do the WMI.

Probly more detail than you were looking for but there you go. : )>
 

Hink

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Wood you happen to have insurance on that car? Couldn't resist.

So the old thermostat did that also?
Ha! As a matter of fact, I was planning on selling it this summer and got more from it from insurance than I was looking to get.

Well, I looked through my records and can't find when I put the thermostat in but I'm sure it was in the old motor too.
 

Will L.

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So, try switching the thermostat, put please take pics of the tstat if it is stuck open. I would really like to understand how to obtain what you are doing.

Don't you want it hotter up there for a heater?
 

Hink

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So, try switching the thermostat, put please take pics of the tstat if it is stuck open. I would really like to understand how to obtain what you are doing.

Don't you want it hotter up there for a heater?
Oh, the heater seems to work plenty good, but it wasn't really that cold this year. My only heater problem is trying to figure out why my switch keeps melting. Even with a new resistor. Must need new terminations.

I do have a 195* thermostat that I could put in. I'll try to get that done today or tomorrow with pics.
 

NVW

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Same temp sender from the old engine? That can make a difference as well, if you have good heat at 135* F, I think the reading is off. If it is off I would be worried about the 210* F reading.
 

Hink

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Same temp sender from the old engine? That can make a difference as well, if you have good heat at 135* F, I think the reading is off. If it is off I would be worried about the 210* F reading.
Yeah, very true. Although with head studs and good EGTs I'm not as worried as I would otherwise, but still...

I think the sender is the same though. I changed all that stuff on the old engine to be ready for towing and just moved them to the new engine because they were so new.

I'll start with the thermostat first and then change the sender if it doesn't change anything.
 

Will L.

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What about open the radiator cap, put in a cooking thermostat. Fire it up and compare temps if unsure.

I know of 2 trucks run that cool, but it was drivers complaining in the winter time about poor heater performance. Found bad tstat and swapped it, but it was other guys in the shop that fixed them while I was gone. I wasn't convinced the 2nd time wasn't a joke on me because I tried to find the 1st one but couldn't.
 

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FRANKENBURBAN
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Put an OEM t-stat in it. The OEM stat has a rubber seal that seals the poppet to the stat housing to prevent any coolant flowing past before it opens. What normally happens is the rubber cracks and allows coolant to leak by, and then this happens. Just because the stat was new, does not mean it was actually NEW. If the stat was old new stock, then the rubber is also old, and would not hold up long leaving you with this problem not long after it was put in.
 

Hink

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Put an OEM t-stat in it. The OEM stat has a rubber seal that seals the poppet to the stat housing to prevent any coolant flowing past before it opens. What normally happens is the rubber cracks and allows coolant to leak by, and then this happens. Just because the stat was new, does not mean it was actually NEW. If the stat was old new stock, then the rubber is also old, and would not hold up long leaving you with this problem not long after it was put in.
Hmmm... It is an AC Delco from rock auto but it didn't have a rubber ring with it. Come to think of it, none of my thermostats have had a rubber ring.
Derp.
Probly start.there, huh? : )>
 

WarWagon

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The IR temp guns are pretty cheap now. I would borrow or buy one and check the temps. You can't trust the gauge reading as gauge itself, wire, connectors, grounds, and temp sender can all flake out pretty bad.

Do you still have the restrictor in the heater? How about long downhill sections coasting with no fuel on that can cool an engine down?

Lots of good engines and transmissions pulled a couple times before someone decided to check and fix the damn hot indicating gauge for problems.

So the insurance adjuster didn't notice the sawdust and chain saw sitting by the base of the tree? :p Don't like Fords but have a soft spot for the land barge sedans like that.
 

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FRANKENBURBAN
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Hmmm... It is an AC Delco from rock auto but it didn't have a rubber ring with it. Come to think of it, none of my thermostats have had a rubber ring.
Derp.
Probly start.there, huh? : )>
You're running the aftermarket ac delocos, not the correct reccomended oem type ac delco with the correct bypass blocker spring tension. If you look at RA, the one you want is the one for $26.79.
 

Hink

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The IR temp guns are pretty cheap now. I would borrow or buy one and check the temps. You can't trust the gauge reading as gauge itself, wire, connectors, grounds, and temp sender can all flake out pretty bad.

Do you still have the restrictor in the heater? How about long downhill sections coasting with no fuel on that can cool an engine down?

Lots of good engines and transmissions pulled a couple times before someone decided to check and fix the damn hot indicating gauge for problems.

So the insurance adjuster didn't notice the sawdust and chain saw sitting by the base of the tree? :p Don't like Fords but have a soft spot for the land barge sedans like that.
IR gun is a good idea. Where would be the best place to lay the IR point? Top of the radiator? Bottom? Heads?
I have no restrictor in the heater, but that is only a very recent change (a few weeks ago).
I just did a full power pull up the hill by my place. Not sure what the grade is, but it's very steep. Short, but steep.
I backed off the throttle when I hit 11 - 1200* EGT and was fluttering around 21 - 22 PSI on the ATT and doing about 65 - 70 mph by the time I hit the top. I've put two evil looking lines of black doing that run in the past and not paying attention to the stop sign zinging by.
Thank God for four wheel drive on the other side.
Max temp hit about 155* per the gauge. On the way down, it cooled quickly to ~125 - 130*, so pretty much back to "normal".

And it's not a Ford, dammit. It (was) a Lincoln, get it right! : )>

That car was given to me by my great aunt and was a TOTAL grandma car, I hated it. Digital gauges and all.
But I was VERY glad I had it, she saved my ass many times. And I'll tell you, about 9 years of neglect, sitting for 9-10 months at a time, it never failed to start with a click of the key.
Even when a linebacker Douglas Fir roughed her up, I reached in the shattered window to the key and she jumped to life, ready for a drive.
I love loyalty like that, but there was little to save so she had to go.

You're running the aftermarket ac delocos, not the correct reccomended oem type ac delco with the correct bypass blocker spring tension. If you look at RA, the one you want is the one for $26.79.
Got it Ferm, I'll put the 190* back in and see if there is a change, then I'll get that $26.79 unit coming if not.
 

schiker

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I think your dash gauge is off. I think you should get a code if it was only 135F. I think it is suppose to reach 160F within 10 minutes of start up or sets code. When my stat stuck open it ran cool and set the check engine light.
 
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Will L.

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That's cuz you have fancy computer monitoring your engine like a George Orwell gubmint.

Us db2 folk don't get that. The only thing the 2 pin thermostat feeds is cold advance & high idle solenoids.
Which is another way to verify temps: once at full temp, unplug the two connected wires on the front of IP and if engine idle goes down a bit- both temp sensors would have to be bad faulting low.
 

schiker

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Oops I just glanced at last line of sig. Even though the dash gauge does really match a 99.

A 1999 twin of the above without any mods except relocated PMD
 
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