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I hope the 6.5L fleet does not revolt....

The worst part of the fan shroud is that you can't get in at a good angle to get at the fasteners that hold the top half on. They're the push-pin style and they're just a bitch.
 
well guys, was planning on the 95, but after finding out the pinion bearing is coming apart, I gotta scramble to get the 06 ready.

The last load was a local one (260 miles one way) at 24,000 lbs, and the cooling fan ran pretty often.

Considering the fan kicks in, I would say dirt and crud blockage is my issue, and the t-stats are operating fine?

I wont have time to pull the radiator, I gotta be out there in a day or two, but luckily the item I am hauling is about half the weight, so I expect total combo to not exceed 20K, and I plan to drive at night.

Even with the 24K load and the a/c on, it never got over 210.

Do you think with a light load I will be fine going to Idaho? Luckily it seems the 06 has plenty of reserve in the cooling system to make up for blockage. If anyone thinks harm will come to the engine, speak up and tell me I am an idiot. :)

Once again, I think I am slowly learning that there is such a thing a too many pickups. spreads the maintenance budget and repair time allotments too thin.
 
I could get my lbz rad out quicker than my 95 6.5's.

IMO blow it out as good as you can and make sure the air filter is clean, you should make it.
 
And if you're basing that 210 off the dash gauge, don't believe it. The dash gauge can read 210 at anything from 170-225. With that being said, the DURAMAX is designed to handle temps up to 240 with no problems. Fan clutch shouldn't even really come in until 225 or so.
 
I'd go in the backside with a strong hose with a tight jet-spray nozzle (or better yet, the nozzle I posted in Mike's thread, the Radiator Genie) and rinse as much junk out from the backside as you can.

And like Ferm said, the factory gauge at 210 basically means it's operating at "normal" temp. If it fluctuated all over it'd freak people out, so they make it say 210 for quite a wide range of temps.
 
Dad's 05 LLY said:
I'd go in the backside with a strong hose with a tight jet-spray nozzle (or better yet, the nozzle I posted in Mike's thread, the Radiator Genie) and rinse as much junk out from the backside as you can.

And like Ferm said, the factory gauge at 210 basically means it's operating at "normal" temp. If it fluctuated all over it'd freak people out, so they make it say 210 for quite a wide range of temps.
Click to expand...
Yep, it DOES freak you out to see just how much teh temp swings on these engines. My gauge isn't dumb, and that sucker moves all over the place towing. I can be cruising running 70 and be at 205 or so, slow down to 60 and go up to 215, then drop back to 200. Hit a grade, and QUICKLY spike up over 230 to almost 240 before the fan clutch even thinks of engaging, then RAPIDLY drop back to 195-200 just to have it go back to 215 and stay there for the next 3 hours of flat towing.
 
Yup my 06 was everywhere. Run over 220 all the time towing, hits 230-35 and the clutch kicks in, might hit 240 before it drops and hits 185 when the clutch kicks out.

The whole time the temp gauge just goes a hair under 210 to a hair over 210
 
made it out fine, never got over 230, and when it headed over 215 I was backing out of it.

I had a code, and I forgot my reader so I need to bum one off a local buddy or go to Oreilly's or Autozone to get it read.

Considering the occasional bad smoke, and weird whooshing noise, I am thinking EGR issues.

So to disable the EGR, I am looking at a Finger stick/ blocker plate, or a EFI live tweak that shuts off the EGR system.

I have heard that the Finger stick/ blocker plate relies on a healthy system to keep the computer happy?

What about the "electronic bypass" with the EFI live? could it work with weak components?


Also, someone told me the finger stick requires cutting and splicing the OEM wiring, which I am not OK with, I am all about plug and play. :)

Any advice appreciated!
 
I'm blocked and fingers stick installed. I would have done EFI if I had it to do again.
 
The finger stick blocker plate does require a working egr valve. It simply alters the maf reading so the ecm thinks the egr valve is flowing when its not. And yes, it requires cutting and splicing the maf wires to install it. Efilive could care less if the valve is even there if the tune is written correctly. You still need a blocker plate or remove it(I reccomend the blocker plate) as boost pressures above 18 or so can push the stock egr open(stock boost goes up to 22-24). And unless you had a cts or something on it, those werent the temps you were seeing as the stock gauge is a liar. 230 is NOTHING for a duramax, 215 is where the stats are just really opening up. Its not a 6.5l, so don't drive it like one. 235-240 is where they are starting to get on the warm side.

Put in a 2886 fan clutch and LEAVE IN THE INNER SHROUD! Several who work there trucks have PROVEN it is needed if you push them, and actually overheated with them out, put it back and never got hot. If you never tow, or not heavy, you can leave it out, otherwise put it back in as it is needed, and also helps make the a/c work better at an idle.
 
It started in 06 including the 06 lly. 05- do not have it. It's there to keep the fan centered at all times in the shroud. The inner shroud atatches to the engine and has a foam seal against the outer shroud so it can move without lising it's seal. Since the inner shroud is atatched to the engine, the fan is always centered, and can have much tighter fit to prevent any cooling losses. It really needs to be put back in. Early on people were taking them out, but they've found it does make the engine run about 15-20 degrees hotter when towing.
 
So if a guy had a sick EGR valve, a blocker plate with a EFI live EGR shutoff would be the best route, and a finger stick would be bad?
 
If your EGR is bad you either have to buy a new one with the FS or delete/disable and tune it out with EFI. I have a Sinister Diesel delete kit I bought from a guy that used it for a short time before going with full delete of all just to have on hand in case the EGR motor ever quit. At that point I would pull out the FS and switch to EFI.
 
I would ditch that sinister kit. It's not a matter of if, but when the egr up pipe bellows will crack with that setup. A blocker plate is a 100 times easier and works better. If you're going to delete, either replace the passenger side up pipe with an lb7 federal pipe, or have the egr tube cut off and a plate welded over the hole.

And if you have egr problems, efilive is the way to go and have it shutoff all together.
 
So, what are common spots for the fuel system to suck air? mostly just thefilter head and filter element itself?

I am noticing a air related miss upon starting, and re-starting below half a tank.

If I do go with a lift pump, can guy keep the OEM lines and dremel the crimp on the OEM line where it leaves the frame and has a short section of rubber before joining the engine mounted steel line? stock steel lines, but rubber hose to plumb the LP?

Or is where the line connects at the tank a air suck point too and needs bypassed?
 
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