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I hope the 6.5L fleet does not revolt....

If you want a water pump on hand get the high dollar ac delco one that comes in its housing, it's a little quicker to swap. By quicker I mean under 8hrs lol

Pull the inner shroud.... PERIOD

Thermostat set isn't a bad idea, I've seen 4 sets fail over 200k miles.

My u joint were original at 250k, only changed them because I was getting nervous. I'd guess the 6 speed could be rougher on u joints but I wasn't easy on mine at all.

Front hubs fail, 2wd or 4wd has very little bearing on that. If you get the high dollar ones then maybe keep a spare parts store brand one.

Fuel filter is a must behind the seat of all diesels IMO.

I unplug my wif and run a cat set up, the warning comes on in the rain and below 40*.

Fuses, mine liked to blow trailer fuses under the hood and the 12v aux outlet fuse.

Spare tires are handy

I also usually have coffee and beef jerky while on the road too.
 
I blew an innercooler boot once. Speaking of I have a full set of mishimoto boots, clamps, pcv reroute, and other misc stuff if you want to cut a deal.
 
Tanner, you know once you sell me your LBZ goodies, you will find another. :) Is all the goodies new or used?

What is the big deal on the PCV re-route? this is just the blowby system similar to the 6.5L, correct?
 
Yes, just keeps the oil vapor from settling out in the innercooler.

Most of it is new. I blew my head gasket the day after I ordered.

I doubt I go to another lbz soon. I really want to try the 6.5 x 6 speed Allison in a crew cab
 
Got a few questions: What are the symptoms of a failing Vane Position sensor?

The truck under acceleration will seem to open and close the vanes more than it should, and when I am at moderate throttle, it is smoking. WOT it clears up, so I am thinking the turbo itself is not at fault. After a shift when I get into it, it seems to take a long time for the computer to decide where to set the vanes.

Also, after a hot shutdown, upon startup, I can detect a miss. alot of the rubber lines look original. Do I likely have an air leak? I assume a filter head rebuild and a new filter is first thing to try, then replace rubber lines?

Does someone offer a nice lift pump kit that is plug and play and requires no hacking and splicing?

Finally, I still need to do t-stats. It looks pretty intimidating, any good DIY writeups? Do I need any gaskets? I am mainly concerned about the metal neck that connects to the housing.

The cooling stack needs cleaned. THe one tutorial I found acts like the a/c core needs bent forward and the IC needs taken out the front. To me it looks like the Radiator and IC come out the back, and then I can leave the condenser in and clean it in truck?
 
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also, what is the final verdict on differential oil level? I got about 3.5 quarts in, and am debating about calling it good there.

I started with 4, used a hand pumper and chased a few pumps through before putting the plug back in, and then had to transfer between bottles to get the last bit that the pumper would not suck, so I estimate 3.5, and I did a google search, and I guess per bulletin, 3.1 quarts is recommended.
 
Do you still have the inner shroud on? Everything gets easier without it. Then your thermostats are a piece of cake. Somewhere there is a thread when I did the water pump and thermostats. I do 3.5-4 qts rear and 2 qts front. Not sure about your VPS issue. It's not a cheap 'throw a new one at it' fix. They're pretty proud of em. Getting a code? P003A? I have heard a suggestion from Ferman to run a couple of oil changes with good synthetic that might free up the vanes. I'm thinking of doing that next couple of changes but now I'm retiring so won't be racking up 700 miles a week like I have the last 30 years.
 
For the vanes, not too many ways without removing & disassembling & cleaning... If ya had a easy safe way to run some water mist through while on the road that will also clean it out but that's not as easy as just removing the turbine and cleaning...
 
Honestly that sounds like my lbz when my egr spring was getting weak. It smoked and surged as the egr fluttered. Blocked it and never had an issue.

Did t stats twice but both times were after the inner shroud was gone. Simple as a tbi 350. The oil fill was the only real issue.

I fill all my diff's until they over flow and on the rears I make sure I tilt the rear end each direction by driving through a ditch and getting the truck to lean each way then check the oil again. Gets new oil to the hubs.
 
so what seals the black metal neck to the aluminum housing? And I assume the aluminum housing just relies on T-stat gaskets to seal it to the engine?
 
When the egr leaks, it will smoke like crazy. For the stats, new ac delco/oem or mishimotos are the only way to go. They should come with seals. Then you need the oring for the outlet pipe. Remove the oil fill tube and slide the housing out the front. Remove the 4 bolts for the housing and the 1 that holds the water outlet pipe, and it slides forward fairly easily.
 
OK, thank you guys. I got Genuine GM stats via Rock auto, and they showed up in an Isuzu box, so good to go there.

I will order in the o-ring for the outlet pipe tomorrow unless they allready have it.

Anyone know how GM wanted the cooling stack to come apart? I am thinking Radiator and intercooler go out the back?

If I have time I might pull it apart before heading north on harvest, either taking the 95 or the 06, right now leaning towards the 95.
 
The radiator and intercooler both come out under the hood. The hardest part of the whole job is the inner fan shroud, but after all the lly overheating problems, I always put them back in.
 
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