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How do you all get 6.2s to 300K miles

My boys father is a mechanic and has a shop (stall and everything) it'll probably get done there.

My friend is a mechanic aswell, though he's more experienced with newer vehicles (Audi, BMW, etc)

Is there anything else I should knock out while down there? (Lines, bolts, hardware, etc)
 
need to see if the tires are moving as soon as you slightly turn the steering wheel. best to stand out side and watch the front tire while you start moving the steering wheel if they start to move at the same time both directions then you should be good. if you can turn the steering wheel some and the tires not moving then there is something sloppy in the steering system.
 
Yup- everything related to steering and suspension- the answer starts with getting all 4’tires off the ground and yanking, pull, force things around until you find the item with freeplay. Keep them well greased if greasable and when you return them- opt for sealed instead of greasable when possible.
 
Bit off topic, but out of curiosity I asked AI for possible mechanical and quality of life work/upgrades I should do my application.

(quality of life items such as new window regulators, etc) which i do desperately need as my windows are painfully slow now.

Anyways it gave me this, what do you all think? Screenshot_20260521_210747_Claude.jpgScreenshot_20260521_210825_ChatGPT.jpgScreenshot_20260521_210950_Google.jpgScreenshot_20260521_212740_Chrome.jpg

Something I missed here? 😭
 
All the ip stuff - meh. It says db2 is #1 failure point on 6.2… WRONG!
It doesn’t cover the real things that make a difference. Add lube to fuel, Clear return line, fuel pressure gauge. For peak mileage/ performance- time it every 7-10 oil changes and let it ride.

Replacing T-stat.. what? T stats can last decades. Leave them alone until you are doing a waterpump. About every 100k throw on new hoses & belts.

Yes a good oil pressure gauge along w/ ECT, and trans temp is never a bad idea.
If ya wanna get elaborate- steal the idea off newer rigs- low oil warning, high ect warning & fixing your low coolant warning is good. Rig them up to a loud alarm is nice too imo.

You should update your signature line so we can see where you’re at with things.
Stay on top of the harmonic balancer.

Yuppers to new rubber brake lines. Steel if they are rusty-crusty. Nickle copper solid lines make a world of difference instead of fighting actual steel.
Doing the entire line system at once is a fun 1 or 2 weekend project. Fun is in wrench throwing, curse word inventing fun. Make sure the line comes free at cylinders and do it when you have a second rig for parts chasing when something else breaks. Remember don’t use brake fluid that was opened months ago. It absorbs moisture- so doing it all at once with new fluid is a good thing.

Ai has some nice uses, misinformation mixed into descent info is a good one.
 
Update boys, PS leak is fixed.

Secondly, doing another daily parts run on RockAuto since I need new power window regulator and motors for my front two windows. (Any decent kits/brands would be kindly appreciated)

Any potential parts i should keep an eye out for? Was gonna get a thermostat aswell since the one I have is the stock one
 
Update boys, PS leak is fixed.

Secondly, doing another daily parts run on RockAuto since I need new power window regulator and motors for my front two windows. (Any decent kits/brands would be kindly appreciated)

Any potential parts i should keep an eye out for? Was gonna get a thermostat aswell since the one I have is the stock one
For a Thermostat I would shoot for a GM or AC Delco one. I will let others say for the window motors and regulators.

are you having issues with the regulators them selves or jus the motor? iirc you can get replacement rollers for the tracks if the regulator is still good, and the motor can be replaced by drilling out the 4 rivets just be wise about the spring once the motor comes loose. if you fingers are in the way.... it can slice and dice.
 
For a Thermostat I would shoot for a GM or AC Delco one. I will let others say for the window motors and regulators.

are you having issues with the regulators them selves or jus the motor? iirc you can get replacement rollers for the tracks if the regulator is still good, and the motor can be replaced by drilling out the 4 rivets just be wise about the spring once the motor comes loose. if you fingers are in the way.... it can slice and dice.

So last year, in my infinite wisdom, I replaced the window motor on both my front windows, *without* replacing my regulators (yh I know...)

The regulators are worn down for sure, and on the pax side, two of those little wheels is cracked/gone completely, causing issues with the window going up and down.

Not sure if I should go the "fully replace" route or simply regrease and add new rollers in.

Driver side goes up and down (albeit it slowly) and the pax side due to the broken roller/wheel gets stuck everytime i go up.

That being said, which approach would be a good one? Outright replace all or regrease and add new rollers in?
 
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