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How do you all get 6.2s to 300K miles

My boys father is a mechanic and has a shop (stall and everything) it'll probably get done there.

My friend is a mechanic aswell, though he's more experienced with newer vehicles (Audi, BMW, etc)

Is there anything else I should knock out while down there? (Lines, bolts, hardware, etc)
 
need to see if the tires are moving as soon as you slightly turn the steering wheel. best to stand out side and watch the front tire while you start moving the steering wheel if they start to move at the same time both directions then you should be good. if you can turn the steering wheel some and the tires not moving then there is something sloppy in the steering system.
 
Yup- everything related to steering and suspension- the answer starts with getting all 4’tires off the ground and yanking, pull, force things around until you find the item with freeplay. Keep them well greased if greasable and when you return them- opt for sealed instead of greasable when possible.
 
Bit off topic, but out of curiosity I asked AI for possible mechanical and quality of life work/upgrades I should do my application.

(quality of life items such as new window regulators, etc) which i do desperately need as my windows are painfully slow now.

Anyways it gave me this, what do you all think? Screenshot_20260521_210747_Claude.jpgScreenshot_20260521_210825_ChatGPT.jpgScreenshot_20260521_210950_Google.jpgScreenshot_20260521_212740_Chrome.jpg

Something I missed here? 😭
 
All the ip stuff - meh. It says db2 is #1 failure point on 6.2… WRONG!
It doesn’t cover the real things that make a difference. Add lube to fuel, Clear return line, fuel pressure gauge. For peak mileage/ performance- time it every 7-10 oil changes and let it ride.

Replacing T-stat.. what? T stats can last decades. Leave them alone until you are doing a waterpump. About every 100k throw on new hoses & belts.

Yes a good oil pressure gauge along w/ ECT, and trans temp is never a bad idea.
If ya wanna get elaborate- steal the idea off newer rigs- low oil warning, high ect warning & fixing your low coolant warning is good. Rig them up to a loud alarm is nice too imo.

You should update your signature line so we can see where you’re at with things.
Stay on top of the harmonic balancer.

Yuppers to new rubber brake lines. Steel if they are rusty-crusty. Nickle copper solid lines make a world of difference instead of fighting actual steel.
Doing the entire line system at once is a fun 1 or 2 weekend project. Fun is in wrench throwing, curse word inventing fun. Make sure the line comes free at cylinders and do it when you have a second rig for parts chasing when something else breaks. Remember don’t use brake fluid that was opened months ago. It absorbs moisture- so doing it all at once with new fluid is a good thing.

Ai has some nice uses, misinformation mixed into descent info is a good one.
 
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