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How do you all get 6.2s to 300K miles

Just be sure if you mess with the linkage and rotate that that's pictured in the second picture, mark it so you can still put it back where it was. there is a procedure on how to properly adjust it. I would need to look that up again, can't remember exactly how it's done.
 
On my 93, I had to rotate that part some to tighten it up so it would push on the lever sooner when getting into the throttle. this might be part of why mine smokes on acceleration too, but it's also a very worn out engine so.... LOL
 
Advantage of being advanced- better power.
Advantage of being retarded- better mpg.
Db2 timing adjustment- you can’t get it accurate enough to improve either of the above by ear- you need one of the specialty tools. If you go a hair too far in either direction you loose the small gain you could have from it.

The timing chain stretches enough that timing adjustments to stay in the sweet spot is every 20,000 miles. But to stay from getting way out, and more realistic for people is every 30,000 miles. It will run if it goes 300,000 miles without a single timing adjustment.

I can’t read the retarding info above on my phone. But step one is set the timing. NEVER MESS WITH THE RETARDER WITHOUT SETTING BASE TIMING FIRST.

Otherwise you end up tail wagging the dog.

step one of chasing white smoke- you need to smell it. If it smells of diesel fuel- then yes look at injection pump & injectors.

Sounds like you don’t have the timing tools or else you would have already done it. The $300 on a good deal and $500 on normal prices for the basics will not be easily offset.

The stretched timing chain will beat up mpg gains around the 150,000 miles mark.

As I mentioned before- driving the hiway, slower speeds and cruise control will be your biggest money savers.

Be careful of “TINKER-ITIS”. Wanting to make things better so messing with stuff, often leads to breaking something that was working on older rigs.

Almost never doe the retarding controls need adjustment.
 
While you are pushing on the plunger, look at the tail pipe and see if your seeing the same smoke like when you are accelerating.
 
I think AK is referring to this in the hole in the center of the intake. I circled it.

it looks like a recessed area where things could get trapped in a hole!

1777667789638.png
 
So Jeremy, I am loosing my mind starring at the pic you posted (pic below) on how your turbo is actually able to send boost pressure to the engine.

from what it looks like the turbo is just recirculating air in that chamber along with the air filter sitting on top. I'm sure I am missing something here though.

how is this setup connected to the lower part of the intake (part on the heads) what I am seeing is the inlet of turbo is the larger hose sucking and the air exit side of the turbo is the smaller hose pushing air back into that same chamber which is also open at the top where the air cleaner sits.

Can you post up some pics at different angles to ease my mind LOL?

1777668348528.png
 
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