nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
Gonna do this test btw, standby for the vid
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How do you all get 6.2s to 300K miles
- Thread starter nycxjeremyy
- Start date
-
- Tags
- 6.2 maintenance
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Your screenshots are too small for us to read! even on a PC I can't zoom in to read.
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
Try that
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Just be sure if you mess with the linkage and rotate that that's pictured in the second picture, mark it so you can still put it back where it was. there is a procedure on how to properly adjust it. I would need to look that up again, can't remember exactly how it's done.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
On my 93, I had to rotate that part some to tighten it up so it would push on the lever sooner when getting into the throttle. this might be part of why mine smokes on acceleration too, but it's also a very worn out engine so.... LOL
dieselolds
Well-Known Member
It’s also very easy to break the face cam on the throttle linkage.If the pinch bolt is overtightened it can break the face cam.
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
Testing that part with a screw:
No change in engine
No change in engine
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Advantage of being advanced- better power.
Advantage of being retarded- better mpg.
Db2 timing adjustment- you can’t get it accurate enough to improve either of the above by ear- you need one of the specialty tools. If you go a hair too far in either direction you loose the small gain you could have from it.
The timing chain stretches enough that timing adjustments to stay in the sweet spot is every 20,000 miles. But to stay from getting way out, and more realistic for people is every 30,000 miles. It will run if it goes 300,000 miles without a single timing adjustment.
I can’t read the retarding info above on my phone. But step one is set the timing. NEVER MESS WITH THE RETARDER WITHOUT SETTING BASE TIMING FIRST.
Otherwise you end up tail wagging the dog.
step one of chasing white smoke- you need to smell it. If it smells of diesel fuel- then yes look at injection pump & injectors.
Sounds like you don’t have the timing tools or else you would have already done it. The $300 on a good deal and $500 on normal prices for the basics will not be easily offset.
The stretched timing chain will beat up mpg gains around the 150,000 miles mark.
As I mentioned before- driving the hiway, slower speeds and cruise control will be your biggest money savers.
Be careful of “TINKER-ITIS”. Wanting to make things better so messing with stuff, often leads to breaking something that was working on older rigs.
Almost never doe the retarding controls need adjustment.
Advantage of being retarded- better mpg.
Db2 timing adjustment- you can’t get it accurate enough to improve either of the above by ear- you need one of the specialty tools. If you go a hair too far in either direction you loose the small gain you could have from it.
The timing chain stretches enough that timing adjustments to stay in the sweet spot is every 20,000 miles. But to stay from getting way out, and more realistic for people is every 30,000 miles. It will run if it goes 300,000 miles without a single timing adjustment.
I can’t read the retarding info above on my phone. But step one is set the timing. NEVER MESS WITH THE RETARDER WITHOUT SETTING BASE TIMING FIRST.
Otherwise you end up tail wagging the dog.
step one of chasing white smoke- you need to smell it. If it smells of diesel fuel- then yes look at injection pump & injectors.
Sounds like you don’t have the timing tools or else you would have already done it. The $300 on a good deal and $500 on normal prices for the basics will not be easily offset.
The stretched timing chain will beat up mpg gains around the 150,000 miles mark.
As I mentioned before- driving the hiway, slower speeds and cruise control will be your biggest money savers.
Be careful of “TINKER-ITIS”. Wanting to make things better so messing with stuff, often leads to breaking something that was working on older rigs.
Almost never doe the retarding controls need adjustment.
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
Photos of the timing marks on the Motor and IP, along with the Engine itself
(Yes, I did replace the air filter)
(Yes, I did replace the air filter)
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
While you are pushing on the plunger, look at the tail pipe and see if your seeing the same smoke like when you are accelerating.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
I have to ask what's the stuff in the center of the intake. Looks like rocks
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
I didn't see that until you said something. it does look like rocks or pop corn kernels!
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
Its just the texture of the intake itself, I even cleaned it with a rag
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
The 6.2 chat takes:
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
I think AK is referring to this in the hole in the center of the intake. I circled it.
it looks like a recessed area where things could get trapped in a hole!
it looks like a recessed area where things could get trapped in a hole!
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
So Jeremy, I am loosing my mind starring at the pic you posted (pic below) on how your turbo is actually able to send boost pressure to the engine.
from what it looks like the turbo is just recirculating air in that chamber along with the air filter sitting on top. I'm sure I am missing something here though.
how is this setup connected to the lower part of the intake (part on the heads) what I am seeing is the inlet of turbo is the larger hose sucking and the air exit side of the turbo is the smaller hose pushing air back into that same chamber which is also open at the top where the air cleaner sits.
Can you post up some pics at different angles to ease my mind LOL?
from what it looks like the turbo is just recirculating air in that chamber along with the air filter sitting on top. I'm sure I am missing something here though.
how is this setup connected to the lower part of the intake (part on the heads) what I am seeing is the inlet of turbo is the larger hose sucking and the air exit side of the turbo is the smaller hose pushing air back into that same chamber which is also open at the top where the air cleaner sits.
Can you post up some pics at different angles to ease my mind LOL?
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
Not my photo, but this here shows the ATS Kit from different angles
www.fatmansgarage.com
www.dieselplace.com
VINTAGE RARE ATS 6.2-182 6.2L TURBO KIT AIR INTAKE HAT ADAPTER DIESEL
Condition:used, turbo feels good and looks like a complete kit. intake hat has a small crack in it, unsure of how deep it is. (circled in red) Description:This is a ATS 6.2-182 turbo kit from i believe the 70s. this looks like a full kit and i would assume fits a multitude of 6.2L engines, so i...
www.fatmansgarage.com
ATS turbo kit for 6.2
Hello, I came accross an add on craiglist for a complete ats kit for $300obo. The guy says the turbo needs a rebuild. does anyone know if you can still get these turbo's rebuilt since ats doesn't make these kits anymore? and if this is possible about how much would it cost? Thanks for any...
www.dieselplace.com
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
Bit off topic, will be replacing my fuel filter (been a little over a year and half since it was last changed) what additive should I add to it, or would simply fuel be fine?