nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
Lowkey
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How do you all get 6.2s to 300K miles
- Thread starter nycxjeremyy
- Start date
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- Tags
- 6.2 maintenance
Will L.
Well-Known Member
If you go on YouTube and search “squarebody door” you’ll find dozens of videos and none of them cover everything. But it is time well spent to watch before you start messing around.
For some adjustments the fender has to come off. For some it’s removing the parking brake pedal/release assembly. We can see welding where the striker pin is. Most body shops will charge 4-5 hours per door, then shave time off IF it was easy.
If your door is opening/ closing ok- and the hinge pin doesn’t have free play, I question getting into it now because you have multiple other things to fix before the door alignment.
The reason I said striker pin first - once there is no free play in the bushings- that is where the adjustments start and getting the door to latch/unlatch is the basic requirement. Everything from there is to stop water intruding and finally appearance.
I’ve seen guys spend $850 because the park brake issues that can arise from removing and reinstalling them. Glove box side tends to max out around $250.
All provided the one bolt from the inside isn’t rusted or stripped.
Finding the one piece hinge shims might be hard. I know around 2002-2003 they weren’t available so everyone used the individual shims like is used for the fenders.
For some adjustments the fender has to come off. For some it’s removing the parking brake pedal/release assembly. We can see welding where the striker pin is. Most body shops will charge 4-5 hours per door, then shave time off IF it was easy.
If your door is opening/ closing ok- and the hinge pin doesn’t have free play, I question getting into it now because you have multiple other things to fix before the door alignment.
The reason I said striker pin first - once there is no free play in the bushings- that is where the adjustments start and getting the door to latch/unlatch is the basic requirement. Everything from there is to stop water intruding and finally appearance.
I’ve seen guys spend $850 because the park brake issues that can arise from removing and reinstalling them. Glove box side tends to max out around $250.
All provided the one bolt from the inside isn’t rusted or stripped.
Finding the one piece hinge shims might be hard. I know around 2002-2003 they weren’t available so everyone used the individual shims like is used for the fenders.
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
Off topic as heck, but this is what doing the speed limit (55-65MPH) got me.
This is pre leak fix btw (finally got the right hose size and new clamps), can only imagine how the next cycle numbers would be like.
This is pre leak fix btw (finally got the right hose size and new clamps), can only imagine how the next cycle numbers would be like.
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
Man, would love to see you guys on NYC streets 
My old co workers from the AF said they could never drive in that
My old co workers from the AF said they could never drive in that
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
Something odd is going on with my tail lights.
This is the third time in two months that either or of my tail lights have went out, ive replaced the bulbs but it still goes out.
Not running LEDs or anything, they're the halogen/mini bulb ones.
any ideas yall? Getting really annoying changing out bulbs at this point
This is the third time in two months that either or of my tail lights have went out, ive replaced the bulbs but it still goes out.
Not running LEDs or anything, they're the halogen/mini bulb ones.
any ideas yall? Getting really annoying changing out bulbs at this point
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
could be the contacts in the sockets. aren't yours the round push and twist type?
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
Yes sir they are
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
What do you mean by mini?
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
The ones in your link are LEDs
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
They sell a contact repair kits which is just a fiber disc with a spring and two wire leads. 9 times out of 10 the contacts are just worn out on the leads. you can repair them if you are handy with a soldering iron. just pull them out and put a blob of solder on the contact.
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
This is what I was referring to as a repair kit for the socket. if you look at the end where the contacts are that the bulb touches, most of the time they are worn out along with the spring might also be squished down not pushing enough on the bulb to make a good contact.
you can push the wires through from the back side where you can pull them out the front side enough to grab and stretch the spring a little along with applying a blob of solder on both contacts. That usually does the trick.
also look at the inside walls of the socket and make sure it's clean without any rust or corrosion. you might need to get you a NEW clean battery post wire brush and use it to clean out the socket. I say new and clean brush because you don't want to use one that you've already used on a battery terminal. they are cheap and about the right size to fit into the socket.
after it's all cleaned up, get you a packet of "Bulb grease" that's sold in any auto parts house usually on the counter to apply in the socket and on the contacts of the bulb. that will seal it so moisture and salt doesn't get in there and corrode up again.
Here's a pic of the contacts.
you can push the wires through from the back side where you can pull them out the front side enough to grab and stretch the spring a little along with applying a blob of solder on both contacts. That usually does the trick.
also look at the inside walls of the socket and make sure it's clean without any rust or corrosion. you might need to get you a NEW clean battery post wire brush and use it to clean out the socket. I say new and clean brush because you don't want to use one that you've already used on a battery terminal. they are cheap and about the right size to fit into the socket.
after it's all cleaned up, get you a packet of "Bulb grease" that's sold in any auto parts house usually on the counter to apply in the socket and on the contacts of the bulb. that will seal it so moisture and salt doesn't get in there and corrode up again.
Here's a pic of the contacts.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Correction... I looked up the socket on your rig, I was thinking of the older all metal sockets. yours just uses thin metal contacts and there isn't much you can do to repair them, only replace the pigtails. if it's still clean inside the socket you might be able to take a small pick and pry up on the metal strips slightly to get them to make better contact.
If you have to replace them, get you some of the heat-shrink solder butt splices so you never have to worry about the splice corroding and giving you an issue.
Here is a breakdown on the tail lights showing the sockets. still I would use the bulb grease to prevent corrosion in there, I don't think the sockets are really water tight.
If you have to replace them, get you some of the heat-shrink solder butt splices so you never have to worry about the splice corroding and giving you an issue.
Here is a breakdown on the tail lights showing the sockets. still I would use the bulb grease to prevent corrosion in there, I don't think the sockets are really water tight.