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How do you all get 6.2s to 300K miles
- Thread starter nycxjeremyy
- Start date
-
- Tags
- 6.2 maintenance
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Looks like you have some earls keeping the underside rust free!
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
Opinion* dear Lord.Could use an option.
Does it seem like my motor shakes a little too much?
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Once you got all the air out and it running smooth, it seems fine. you might have a bad motor mount though. I will let others chime in. easy way to check is to put it into drive, hold the brake and lightly goose the throttle. watch to see if the motor lifts on one side. then do the same thing in reverse.
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
The driver side motor mounts were loose, I literally was able to turn the bolts with a finger.
Was able to get them tight again, did the same with the alt belt, squeeks gone
Was able to get them tight again, did the same with the alt belt, squeeks gone
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Loose bolts as in the ones holding the mount clam shell to the frame or the single through bolt? if it was the single through bolt. do the same thing again that I mentioned on seeing how much the engine moves when in gear with a blip of the throttle. you can put a little more load on it, see if you feel and see the motor lift and fall back.
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
Bad photo. But its the one that attached to the frame sir, it was this mount tho
I held the nut with a wrench and tightened the bolt with a socket, it worked, and whenever I go from D to R, I no longer feel such a force, heck its smoother now idling.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Thats odd - those being loose. Check both mounts and check the transmission mount
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
Very off topic (I did the peep the mounts btw, seemed alright, motor is visibly less shaky now)
How would you all recommend i go about aligning the doors? Per the photos, its obvious there is sagging, but, the doors themselves (mainly at the bottom) seperate too much from the body.
Ive heard about washers/shims, would that work for door alignment? Id just like to have them symmetrical and have the door close easier than it already does.
(Attatched under the photos will be videos of how both the doors close.)
First photos are from the driver side^
Passenger side^
Video:
How would you all recommend i go about aligning the doors? Per the photos, its obvious there is sagging, but, the doors themselves (mainly at the bottom) seperate too much from the body.
Ive heard about washers/shims, would that work for door alignment? Id just like to have them symmetrical and have the door close easier than it already does.
(Attatched under the photos will be videos of how both the doors close.)
First photos are from the driver side^
Passenger side^
Video:
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
how are the pins and bushings on the hinges. that is usually where the issues are.
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
I shook both sides, no play or the sound of a pinch moving.
Its literally just unaligned
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
I believe on your rig, the hinges can be shimmed, they also make a tool that attaches to the striker and latch to help align the door too. I will let others chime in on that part.
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
Shoot if thats a thing someone do tell, ill actually cop that and the shims.
Has anyone ever aligned their door via shims here?
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
It could also be that the door pillar is tweaked too. when the door is closed, how are the body lines at the front fender? is the bottom also pushed out there as well?
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
Bottom is slightly pushed out, when i close it closes without anything hitting or sounding
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
those hinges are adjustable, I'd try that before tweaking on things
Will L.
Well-Known Member
The striker pin is that bolt in your pictures that the door latch hooks onto when closed. Barely loosen it, and there is a captured nut behind it and large washers on both sides. It goes through a fairly large hole. By moving it up/down/ in / out you can adjust where the latch area of the door fits when closed.
The hinges are adjustable as mentioned. You can move the top & bottom hinge in and out to get the front of the door to align there. Most folks start at the hinges. Then when the front seem is good the adjust the striker pin.
Basically you adjust the door to fender at the hinges & latch is for the center of thr door. Beyond that- is a bend door shell or bent pillars. The window frame commonly gets bent inward and need simply small amounts of force to bend it back- they get bent by people using it to close the door by pulling on it.
The hinges are adjustable as mentioned. You can move the top & bottom hinge in and out to get the front of the door to align there. Most folks start at the hinges. Then when the front seem is good the adjust the striker pin.
Basically you adjust the door to fender at the hinges & latch is for the center of thr door. Beyond that- is a bend door shell or bent pillars. The window frame commonly gets bent inward and need simply small amounts of force to bend it back- they get bent by people using it to close the door by pulling on it.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
I don't like the striker pin to be used for height adjustment of the door only in and out. You should be able to adjust the rear height with the hinges as well
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
Im trying so hard to visualize adjusting the hinges, does anyone have a video or how to guide of this?
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Take it to a maw and pop body shop.
Old timers knows the fine points of hinge adjustments.