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How do you all get 6.2s to 300K miles

Absolutely not the ebay. Rock auto is questionable. They were not before but iirc some of the guys here said they are now. I avoid them when possible because of zero customer service.
GM dealerships, Oriellys auto parts is (they are just under $11 there), autozone is, Napa is, summit racing is, There is supposed to be ONE store on alazon that is but there are boatloads of rip off stores there selling the fake ones.
 
Well boys, an update,
The following has been replaced/updated for the damn near 2K mile trek back home:
- Radiator hoses (because why not)
- Exterior lights, their electrical sockets and housing
- Power steering lines
- Low coolant light senor adaptor (finally)
- Steering linkage
- Glow Plugs (as of now, only 7/8 have been done due to....the turbo proving things difficult)

Video:

For those asking, yup, still on extended Leave/Terminal before I final out, my friends father has been more than kind enough to actually work on it while ive been away (he was prior Army, and is knowledgeable on the CUCV varient), he insested as he wanted to make sure I have high chances of making it back home to NYC safe and mechanically sound.

Let me know what you all think
 
Trying to decide what oil to put in that old dozer. It’s a 1953 IH TD-14. Engine totally starts on gasoline then after several minutes of warm up lift the lever and converts it to diesel.
Book is all about straight weight with 40 being for above 80*F and 10 weight below 20 or some such.
I’d like to run the T-6 full synthetic. I’m afraid though that those old enjun seals might not hold in that 5W-40 weight but most likely go in with the T-4 in the 15W-40 range. T-4 is under 80 bucks for 5 gallon bucket of the stuff.
I will send in a sample from the current oil thats now in the engine.
 
Trying to decide what oil to put in that old dozer. It’s a 1953 IH TD-14. Engine totally starts on gasoline then after several minutes of warm up lift the lever and converts it to diesel.
Book is all about straight weight with 40 being for above 80*F and 10 weight below 20 or some such.
I’d like to run the T-6 full synthetic. I’m afraid though that those old enjun seals might not hold in that 5W-40 weight but most likely go in with the T-4 in the 15W-40 range. T-4 is under 80 bucks for 5 gallon bucket of the stuff.
I will send in a sample from the current oil thats now in the engine.
Moderators, please delete this post and My previous post in this thread.
 
Have him cycle the key to let the GP's do a double cycle and see if that improves the cold startup. if you put in the 60g's, they will need slightly more on time to reach a good heat. most folks will add in a manual override button in the dash. push and hold for 10 seconds and should fire up nicely.
Currently the one behind the manifold is fighting him badly, it won't come out
 
Currently the one behind the manifold is fighting him badly, it won't come out
I've heard of blowing them out with compression some times working.

If it's loose and just not pulling out.

Spray some good lube on it, put a rag or 2 over it and turn.the engine over.

I don't know the downside of this method.

I'd let others chime in before attempting this.
 
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