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How do you all get 6.2s to 300K miles

Absolutely not the ebay. Rock auto is questionable. They were not before but iirc some of the guys here said they are now. I avoid them when possible because of zero customer service.
GM dealerships, Oriellys auto parts is (they are just under $11 there), autozone is, Napa is, summit racing is, There is supposed to be ONE store on alazon that is but there are boatloads of rip off stores there selling the fake ones.
 
Well boys, an update,
The following has been replaced/updated for the damn near 2K mile trek back home:
- Radiator hoses (because why not)
- Exterior lights, their electrical sockets and housing
- Power steering lines
- Low coolant light senor adaptor (finally)
- Steering linkage
- Glow Plugs (as of now, only 7/8 have been done due to....the turbo proving things difficult)

Video:
photos.app.goo.gl

New video · Saturday, Jan 10 ð¬

Tap to view!
photos.app.goo.gl photos.app.goo.gl

For those asking, yup, still on extended Leave/Terminal before I final out, my friends father has been more than kind enough to actually work on it while ive been away (he was prior Army, and is knowledgeable on the CUCV varient), he insested as he wanted to make sure I have high chances of making it back home to NYC safe and mechanically sound.

Let me know what you all think
 
Trying to decide what oil to put in that old dozer. It’s a 1953 IH TD-14. Engine totally starts on gasoline then after several minutes of warm up lift the lever and converts it to diesel.
Book is all about straight weight with 40 being for above 80*F and 10 weight below 20 or some such.
I’d like to run the T-6 full synthetic. I’m afraid though that those old enjun seals might not hold in that 5W-40 weight but most likely go in with the T-4 in the 15W-40 range. T-4 is under 80 bucks for 5 gallon bucket of the stuff.
I will send in a sample from the current oil thats now in the engine.
 
MrMarty51 said:
Trying to decide what oil to put in that old dozer. It’s a 1953 IH TD-14. Engine totally starts on gasoline then after several minutes of warm up lift the lever and converts it to diesel.
Book is all about straight weight with 40 being for above 80*F and 10 weight below 20 or some such.
I’d like to run the T-6 full synthetic. I’m afraid though that those old enjun seals might not hold in that 5W-40 weight but most likely go in with the T-4 in the 15W-40 range. T-4 is under 80 bucks for 5 gallon bucket of the stuff.
I will send in a sample from the current oil thats now in the engine.
Click to expand...
Moderators, please delete this post and My previous post in this thread.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Have him cycle the key to let the GP's do a double cycle and see if that improves the cold startup. if you put in the 60g's, they will need slightly more on time to reach a good heat. most folks will add in a manual override button in the dash. push and hold for 10 seconds and should fire up nicely.
Click to expand...
Currently the one behind the manifold is fighting him badly, it won't come out
 
nycxjeremyy said:
Currently the one behind the manifold is fighting him badly, it won't come out
Click to expand...
I've heard of blowing them out with compression some times working.

If it's loose and just not pulling out.

Spray some good lube on it, put a rag or 2 over it and turn.the engine over.

I don't know the downside of this method.

I'd let others chime in before attempting this.
 
if it's getting to it, idk if on the square body rigs if you can pull the inner fender out like you can on the newer GMT-400's That's what allows us easier access to them. other than having to pull the down pipe off the turbo to gain access. if you do that, you might need a flange gasket depending on how the exhaust is setup. normally I would just smear a thick bead of red high heat red RTV silicone on the mating surface. That will last for exhaust.
 
I would just undo the turbo at the 4 bolts and the down pipe band clamp leave the manifold intact. that will give you some room. use a thin coat of red RTV silicone on the mating surface of the flange where the 4 bolts are when putting back on.

be sure to use some PB Blaster for the bolt threads prior to loosening them and use some anti-seize on the threads going back on to make removal easier next time.

should be simple to remove if you had pulled it to replace the injectors a while back.

remember... it gets easier to remove/install the more times you do it LOL at least that's what I've learned on my truck HAHA
 
nycxjeremyy said:
Damn, must the turbo/manifold truly be removed? Trying hard not to do so
Click to expand...
Not the manifold, just the ring of bolts around the turbo and the V-band clamp, along with the oil feed and drain back right at the turbo.
If that would aid in getting that one GP removed.
IDK about the turbo flange studs, if they are stainless, the nuts most likely will remove quite nicely. Like @dbrannon79 says, a shot of PB Blaster or Knocker Loose a couple hours before attempting to remove them nutz might be a big help.
 
Tfw boys,

I fire it up, actually fires up WAYYY smoother, but my shift kit didnt turn on 😭

.... why me man, why. I am COOKED if it doesnt power on, I can't drive without OD/the shift kit not working, surprised it even shifted going back from the airport. Granted, kept it below 55MPh

Screenshot_20260113_085954_Photos.jpg

Q4-4R70WmanualG2.pdf https://share.google/Ae6Wn8E3puo7lmL1L

F U C K
 
Last edited:
nycxjeremyy said:
Tfw boys,

I fire it up, actually fires up WAYYY smoother, but my shift kit didnt turn on 😭

.... why me man, why. I am COOKED if it doesnt power on, I can't drive without OD/the shift kit not working, surprised it even shifted going back from the airport. Granted, kept it below 55MPh

View attachment 97581

Q4-4R70WmanualG2.pdf https://share.google/Ae6Wn8E3puo7lmL1L

F U C K
Click to expand...
Correct link:
https://www.usshift.com/downloads/Q...1khm0LORxLQQGm3J-LRCYCbw1_QR77uRt6CTrBeoeRZyX
 
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