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Has anybody tried glass lensed headlights for 94 to 99 GMT400's ?

Husker6.5

135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
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Must be the case. Other indicator was having the drains down. I had that part right but the lights on the wrong side. They are marked "L" and "R".
Yes, don't want to confuse people by pushing the turn signal lever down and having your right front signal light flash! Or lift it up and the left one does!🤣 🤣🤣
 

Duvall

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I could still see with the old sh!t. I replaced because my wife had made a few comments.
And since the comment was about money on the truck, no problem, right?

If I spent money on every comment my wife made, she'd have to get another job. 🤣

I was never really a fan of switching to the clear style marker lenses because I wasn't sure if I would like how they look.
That night shot really sells them. Gives the truck a more updated lighting look.

Thanks for posting that pic!
 

Husker6.5

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Could possibly be a mis-seated lamp, being out of focus and reflecting distorted, which would cause a shift in the wavelength (prism effect) and make it look yellowish. But I agree with @Will L. with checking ground, lower voltage makes halogen bulbs look yellowish. If HID, bad ground would make lamp ignite in sputters and spurts and go back out before restriking the arc, or trying to again.
 

Big T

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Could possibly be a mis-seated lamp, being out of focus and reflecting distorted, which would cause a shift in the wavelength (prism effect) and make it look yellowish. But I agree with @Will L. with checking ground, lower voltage makes halogen bulbs look yellowish. If HID, bad ground would make lamp ignite in sputters and spurts and go back out before restriking the arc, or trying to again.
They are HID
 

Big T

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Also, having intermittent problem with left Lo coming on. Sometimes, when I turn on the lights, left Lo does not come on until I also engage the Hi beams. Sometimes when I turn off lights to DRL, the left Lo goes off and I need to turn them on and pull the Hi again. This happened intermittently before the new housing install. I also installed new ballasts for the Lo beam yesterday. The 3-way wire taps used for the All 4 on Hi relays are dicey as they will flicker the lights if you bump them good enough.
 

Husker6.5

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Yeah, that sounds like a ground/voltage issue. Those ballasts for HID need rock solid connections and stable voltage supplies. Any small variance in Input Voltage becomes a large variance in Output Voltage, especially when you're stepping up 13.8 Battery Voltage to as high as 20K-25K VAC to initiate the arc and the 80-90VAC to maintain the stable arc. Lower battery voltage (due to bad ground/poor power supply connection) will equate to flickering start-ups and once the capsule fires, lower light output. Lower light output will sometimes equate to a change in the Color Index (measured in Degrees Kelvin, or °K), shifting downwards (bluish-white 6,000°K, becomes more like pure white 5,000°K [natural sunlight or Daylight] by dropping to 5,500-5,000°K, a 5,000°K will drop to a slightly yellowish-white 4,500-4,000°K [the best Halogen Headlights are in the 4,250-4,500°K range, Sealed Beams 4,000°K, which is why they look so "yellowish" driving next to a 5,000°K HID car]).

I HATE those 3M Scotch-lock and knock-off T-tap connectors, I use them only as a last resort if the wire isn't long enough, or too little working room, to allow to cut the wire and use a Marine-grade, adhesive-lined heat shrink butt connector to split the output to two wires. Those T-taps can and do eventually allow a solid-strand wire to break by scoring it to make electrical contact, or cuts the outer strands of stranded wire. Not to mention they allow moisture in and thus oxidation/failure of the conductor.

I would definitely be checking all connections/connectors. Last possibility, and a long shot, is that the gas mixture of that capsule is off/mislabeled and you got a 4,000°K-ish bulb instead of a 5,000°K bulb. But highly unlikely.
 
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