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Going mechanical with a Moose Omega Marine IP

Yeah, I thought we would hear a lot more with the header. Do you hear a difference in person?

What I do hear sounds good.
 
Will L. said:
Yeah, I thought we would hear a lot more with the header. Do you hear a difference in person?

What I do hear sounds good.
Click to expand...
Nope, volume-wise it sounds the same. The only sound difference I noticed was that it sounded smoother than it did before, which makes sense to me since there shouldn't be exhaust pulse collisions at the #6 and #8 ports.
 
n8in8or said:
Nope, volume-wise it sounds the same. The only sound difference I noticed was that it sounded smoother than it did before, which makes sense to me since there shouldn't be exhaust pulse collisions at the #6 and #8 ports.
Click to expand...
It would be nice to see numbers drive/back pressure when the time comes you can get into the throttle more. Stopping that exhaust pulse collision was/is worth the effort.
Again "AWESOME BUILD!"
 
Oh yay, another night that doesn't go as planned!!! So everything was going great, I made my Y harness and that worked and I even took it for a test drive! Then.... I started adjusting the idle speed. To do this I have to turn the engine off and open the throttle pretty much wide-open by hand so the screw rotates to a spot I can reach it. I did this once and backed the screw out a quarter turn. It was down around 690 or so in gear so I decided to try again. Now when I did that I noticed it idled a little rough at first but got better. So I went through the same procedure and backed it out another quarter turn. No start. Well it didn't like that. So I turned it in 3/8 of a turn so it's in between where it was at first and where it was after the first adjustment. Still no start. I have 12 volts at the solenoid. I jumper the solenoid and hear it clicking. I have 24 psi of fuel pressure at the line to the IP (remember this pump is set up to run on 25 psi). I put a clear hose on the return and it has a bubble that won't go away - not sure if that's normal or not (see the video). I tried snapping the throttle open and closed. It cranks fast so it's not low cranking speed. Thoughts???



And just as a reference here's how well it started tonight after sitting for 24 hours.

 
I'm dumb!!!!!!

Checked the glow plugs, yup those are glowing nicely.

So I decided to crack a line and see if I'm getting fuel to the injectors. So I hook up my solenoid button with the key on and holy crap it fires right up!!! Huh maybe that let a little trapped air out?? So I tighten the line and try to start it. Nothing again. What the heck!!

Oooooohhhh :banghead: my power source for the fuel solenoid is hot in run.....NOT IN START!!! So I try starting again by turning the key on and using the button and sure enough it starts!!! Why don't we have a face slap smiley????

So I just have a little rewiring to do is all. Now why it started fine up until now I have NO idea, but at least I solved the mystery.
 
Ok one more post. Here's what I grabbed from the junkyard today. This is in the harness back at the transmission and transfer case. This is what I was saying was clever of GM to put in the harness so they could use the same harness. I thought it was a Y or T that they had in the harness but once I cut it free at the junkyard I found that it's just a double female connector. This will work fine. So I grabbed 4 of them and 4 pigtails - enough for this project and enough for future "just in cases". Then I spliced it all together and it worked like a charm. The speedometer worked fine and the trans controller seemed to be working fine during my test drive.

image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg
 
Oh and I have to be so careful at low boost. It will make a smoke show for sure just cruising. I think the Puff Limiter is going to be needed but I'll see what timing tuning can do. I need to get a timing adapter so I can put a light on it.
 
The stagnant air bubble is fine. If it bothers you, try bleeding it out by loosening the connection with the engine running and making a little mess. What you are watching for is a small stream of bubbles like a bicycle inner tube with a needle hole under water, maybe 1 new tiny bubble a second.

Be careful using a battery booster, it can smoke your glowplugs.

Did I mention that truck sounds NICE!?!

Why it started like that is because it's a db2 and it knows you want it to. Db2's are just loyal that way- they'll start with the promise of electricity later most of the time. Maybe engine was still spinning as you let key go back to run, and at that fuel pressure enough got through to fire. My cranked up pressure db2 pumps always made an easy start.

What starter?
 
Will L. said:
The stagnant air bubble is fine. If it bothers you, try bleeding it out by loosening the connection with the engine running and making a little mess. What you are watching for is a small stream of bubbles like a bicycle inner tube with a needle hole under water, maybe 1 new tiny bubble a second.

Be careful using a battery booster, it can smoke your glowplugs.

Did I mention that truck sounds NICE!?!

Why it started like that is because it's a db2 and it knows you want it to. Db2's are just loyal that way- they'll start with the promise of electricity later most of the time. Maybe engine was still spinning as you let key go back to run, and at that fuel pressure enough got through to fire. My cranked up pressure db2 pumps always made an easy start.

What starter?
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tip on smoking the glow plugs.
 
FellowTraveler said:
It would be nice to see numbers drive/back pressure when the time comes you can get into the throttle more. Stopping that exhaust pulse collision was/is worth the effort.
Again "AWESOME BUILD!"
Click to expand...
Sorry your post got lost in my calamity. Thanks FT! I would love to do some drive/boost pressure comparisons sometime.
 
Will L. said:
The stagnant air bubble is fine. If it bothers you, try bleeding it out by loosening the connection with the engine running and making a little mess. What you are watching for is a small stream of bubbles like a bicycle inner tube with a needle hole under water, maybe 1 new tiny bubble a second.

Be careful using a battery booster, it can smoke your glowplugs.

Did I mention that truck sounds NICE!?!

Why it started like that is because it's a db2 and it knows you want it to. Db2's are just loyal that way- they'll start with the promise of electricity later most of the time. Maybe engine was still spinning as you let key go back to run, and at that fuel pressure enough got through to fire. My cranked up pressure db2 pumps always made an easy start.

What starter?
Click to expand...
Once I got it started the stagnant bubble went away. I've never done the clear tube test so I wasn't sure what I was looking for.
 
n8in8or said:
I'm dumb!!!!!!

Checked the glow plugs, yup those are glowing nicely.

So I decided to crack a line and see if I'm getting fuel to the injectors. So I hook up my solenoid button with the key on and holy crap it fires right up!!! Huh maybe that let a little trapped air out?? So I tighten the line and try to start it. Nothing again. What the heck!!

Oooooohhhh :banghead: my power source for the fuel solenoid is hot in run.....NOT IN START!!! So I try starting again by turning the key on and using the button and sure enough it starts!!! Why don't we have a face slap smiley????

So I just have a little rewiring to do is all. Now why it started fine up until now I have NO idea, but at least I solved the mystery.
Click to expand...
Face slap emogee? Nah, what you need is a self ass-kick emogee! Oops!
 
Glow plugs definitely do NOT like 16V battery start boost off of a charger. The lot monkey at the dealership in Mooresville, SC where I bought my Burb at, used a charger to try and start my Burb before I got there on a 25° December morning before I arrived to check it out. This was even after the day before I asked them on the phone NOT to start it before I got there! Evidently the guy had never started a diesel before, didn't know what the Wait To Start light meant, ran the batteries dead cold-cranking it, then put the charger on it and fried the glow plugs at key-on.
 
n8in8or said:
Once I got it started the stagnant bubble went away. I've never done the clear tube test so I wasn't sure what I was looking for.
Click to expand...
Ok, cool. If you see the trail of bubbles look for air intrusion. If you can not find it, use a clear piece going into the ip. No bubbles in ip but bubbles out means ip problem.

The only reason to not use clear line everywhere is it will start to go bad within 7-8 years. The little return line is easy to see leak and replace- the other one not so much an easy job to swap or notice seeping.
 
26 psi. At about 19:1 compression that's safe. Sounds like you've got a good breathing monster on your hands, Nate. I echo the call for a drive vs. boost pressure comparison. I think you're on to something with that passenger side header design.
 
Husker6.5 said:
Glow plugs definitely do NOT like 16V battery start boost off of a charger. The lot monkey at the dealership in Mooresville, SC where I bought my Burb at, used a charger to try and start my Burb before I got there on a 25° December morning before I arrived to check it out. This was even after the day before I asked them on the phone NOT to start it before I got there! Evidently the guy had never started a diesel before, didn't know what the Wait To Start light meant, ran the batteries dead cold-cranking it, then put the charger on it and fried the glow plugs at key-on.
Click to expand...

I will definitely keep that in mind. In my defense I wasn't using the start booster I had it set to charge mode just to keep the batteries up while cranking because the batteries were starting to get run down.
 
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