MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Leroy Diesel
Or here.
This one is less money. I didnt read to see what the differences may be.
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Ds4 fitting for fuel pressure gauge
- Thread starter Will L.
- Start date
Or here.
This one is less money. I didnt read to see what the differences may be.
jrsavoie
Recruit
Thanks. I see the FFM comes with everything. Except the gauge TLeroy Diesel
leroydiesel.com
Or here.
This one is less money. I didnt read to see what the differences may be.
Leroy Diesel
SnowDrift
Ultra Conservative. ULTRA!
Has it been photographed successfully in use?
Will L.
Well-Known Member
I can’t remember. I know guys on HML bought them. Most folks that diy the labor just gets one from amazon and saves a few bucks.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
iirc this fitting requires a male 6an to #4 male boss fitting to thread into the larger IP nut that is a filter screen. Then on the end of your fuel inlet hose will need the female 6an to barb to connect it all together.
Paveltolz
Доверяй, но проверяй
OEM IP Inlet 7/16 ORB to 1/4" Barb and the aftermarket with the -6 AN.
IP Fitting to -6AN Push Lock example.
Realizing this thread was pretty much all about a fitting for a cleaner Fuel Pressure gauge set up, here's a couple of under $15 solutions for those using a Leroy type FTB kit using brass "T" blocks and 3/8" barbs.
1/4 NPT "T" fitting, 1/4" NPT - 3/8 barbs and a 1/4 - 1/8" NPT adaptor for the fuel pressure gauge sender (two shown for clarity).
OR, 1/8" NPT "T" and 1/8" - 3/8" barbs which saves having to use the neckdown adaptors for the fuel pressure gauge sender.
Caution, while the threaded end of the barb is 3/8" I.D., the barbed end on some will neck down. Easily drilled out I'm sure.
IP Fitting to -6AN Push Lock example.
Realizing this thread was pretty much all about a fitting for a cleaner Fuel Pressure gauge set up, here's a couple of under $15 solutions for those using a Leroy type FTB kit using brass "T" blocks and 3/8" barbs.
1/4 NPT "T" fitting, 1/4" NPT - 3/8 barbs and a 1/4 - 1/8" NPT adaptor for the fuel pressure gauge sender (two shown for clarity).
OR, 1/8" NPT "T" and 1/8" - 3/8" barbs which saves having to use the neckdown adaptors for the fuel pressure gauge sender.
Caution, while the threaded end of the barb is 3/8" I.D., the barbed end on some will neck down. Easily drilled out I'm sure.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
That inline fitting that @Will L. is talking about will fit in between the two in the second pic above. but it will make everything taller. you will also need to build a riser to lift the FFM up so the fuel hose can run over the top of the intake and have clearance to connect to the FFM, not unless you relocate the FFM over to the fender. iirc Leroy sells a harness extension to relocate the FFM. That's what I have on my 93 other than I don't have the fitting tee on the IP. I have the brass one like pictured above that is inline on the hose as the hose leaves the engine and routes up on the firewall, the gauge is near the GP solenoid.
Paveltolz
Доверяй, но проверяй
I'm just presenting options. How one makes things work is up to the individual. I mean, I guess one could try to stuff the T and the sender under the intake but, not recommended. Heat, clearances, access in the future etc. makes going under bad idea in my book.
Earlier, I'd remoted my FFM to the fender area. Didn't like the raised option via extended threaded rods as I'd seen other's do. I'd replaced the heating element and the replacement came with about 3-4 feet of wire. Figured it was a good time to try relocation. Fender was alright but, I went for home made bracket over the power steering pump.
However, once the Air Dog set up went in, the FFM was out.
Earlier, I'd remoted my FFM to the fender area. Didn't like the raised option via extended threaded rods as I'd seen other's do. I'd replaced the heating element and the replacement came with about 3-4 feet of wire. Figured it was a good time to try relocation. Fender was alright but, I went for home made bracket over the power steering pump.
However, once the Air Dog set up went in, the FFM was out.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
I built a bracket that bolts to the FFM manifold mountings, and, also turned the Feed the Beast FFM 90* with the outlet ports facing towards the left side fender.
Now the hoses are run over the top of the intake manifold.
I also installed the Air Dog lift pump but kept the FFM intact.
I had the sender unit mounted on the AN fitting adapter but after having to pull the intake manifold three times to replace tge faulty glow shift sending unit I screwed a barb hose fitting into the AN adapter and remote mounted the sending unit to a more accessible location.
I know some say to not mount the sender to a hose but I was tired of pulling the IM to get to it.
IDK if other gauge company sending units is more dependable than the GS units but seems this is what I soent my money for and they have warranty replaced them on an as needed basis so guess this is what I’ll be running. I did buy a spare sending unit but since I did that this last warranty unit has not yet failed in a lot of miles.
Just be sure to buy a snubber to install between the T fitting and the sending unit.
Maybe thats why this sending unit has not failed, the hose might be absorbing some of the shock waves of the gear rotor pump.
Now the hoses are run over the top of the intake manifold.
I also installed the Air Dog lift pump but kept the FFM intact.
I had the sender unit mounted on the AN fitting adapter but after having to pull the intake manifold three times to replace tge faulty glow shift sending unit I screwed a barb hose fitting into the AN adapter and remote mounted the sending unit to a more accessible location.
I know some say to not mount the sender to a hose but I was tired of pulling the IM to get to it.
IDK if other gauge company sending units is more dependable than the GS units but seems this is what I soent my money for and they have warranty replaced them on an as needed basis so guess this is what I’ll be running. I did buy a spare sending unit but since I did that this last warranty unit has not yet failed in a lot of miles.
Just be sure to buy a snubber to install between the T fitting and the sending unit.
Maybe thats why this sending unit has not failed, the hose might be absorbing some of the shock waves of the gear rotor pump.