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Ds4 fitting for fuel pressure gauge

iirc this fitting requires a male 6an to #4 male boss fitting to thread into the larger IP nut that is a filter screen. Then on the end of your fuel inlet hose will need the female 6an to barb to connect it all together.
 
OEM IP Inlet 7/16 ORB to 1/4" Barb and the aftermarket with the -6 AN.
IMG_2647.jpg

IP Fitting to -6AN Push Lock example.
IMG_2648.jpg


Realizing this thread was pretty much all about a fitting for a cleaner Fuel Pressure gauge set up, here's a couple of under $15 solutions for those using a Leroy type FTB kit using brass "T" blocks and 3/8" barbs.

1/4 NPT "T" fitting, 1/4" NPT - 3/8 barbs and a 1/4 - 1/8" NPT adaptor for the fuel pressure gauge sender (two shown for clarity).
IMG_2650.jpg

OR, 1/8" NPT "T" and 1/8" - 3/8" barbs which saves having to use the neckdown adaptors for the fuel pressure gauge sender.
IMG_2651.jpg

Caution, while the threaded end of the barb is 3/8" I.D., the barbed end on some will neck down. Easily drilled out I'm sure.
IMG_2652.jpg
 
That inline fitting that @Will L. is talking about will fit in between the two in the second pic above. but it will make everything taller. you will also need to build a riser to lift the FFM up so the fuel hose can run over the top of the intake and have clearance to connect to the FFM, not unless you relocate the FFM over to the fender. iirc Leroy sells a harness extension to relocate the FFM. That's what I have on my 93 other than I don't have the fitting tee on the IP. I have the brass one like pictured above that is inline on the hose as the hose leaves the engine and routes up on the firewall, the gauge is near the GP solenoid.
 
I'm just presenting options. How one makes things work is up to the individual. I mean, I guess one could try to stuff the T and the sender under the intake but, not recommended. Heat, clearances, access in the future etc. makes going under bad idea in my book.
Earlier, I'd remoted my FFM to the fender area. Didn't like the raised option via extended threaded rods as I'd seen other's do. I'd replaced the heating element and the replacement came with about 3-4 feet of wire. Figured it was a good time to try relocation. Fender was alright but, I went for home made bracket over the power steering pump.
1777945337549.jpeg
However, once the Air Dog set up went in, the FFM was out.
 
Paveltolz said:
I'm just presenting options. How one makes things work is up to the individual. I mean, I guess one could try to stuff the T and the sender under the intake but, not recommended. Heat, clearances, access in the future etc. makes going under bad idea in my book.
Earlier, I'd remoted my FFM to the fender area. Didn't like the raised option via extended threaded rods as I'd seen other's do. I'd replaced the heating element and the replacement came with about 3-4 feet of wire. Figured it was a good time to try relocation. Fender was alright but, I went for home made bracket over the power steering pump.
View attachment 99358
However, once the Air Dog set up went in, the FFM was out.
Click to expand...
Nice!

Yeah I wasn't thrilled about having those hoses under the intake ether!
 
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