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DIY BD1 Programming - Burn your own chips!

Not yet
Been stewing about this the last couple of days trying to figure out how this came about, well figured it out the night before last. I DID NOT DEVELOPE THESE FILES. I claim nothing on these files, If I did my name would have been put on them as the author. These files have been posted for years. I also said I don't use these files, but would help correct some of the errors ( There's even errors in the factory files, it happens ) I also said it would be easier and faster to correct these files for you all to use instead of building new ones. I new nothing about where they came from or the original author just that they were posted for Tuner Pro users. I want to apologize to westers for the misunderstanding and He has every right to be upset.

Now for the disassembly that I posted and had removed.
That is my disassembly no one elses. I did use the wording of the original disassembled file, and as a guide to make sure I was on the right track, that DALE did provide on his own willingly, because it was much better then what I had. I thanked dale repeatedly for posting it so I could complete my code, but I didn't tell dale or any body else for that matter was I had already found the tables, scalars and the DTC section years before, that was all I was after until I decided I was after something else in the code and started disassembling it. I have disassembled 3 files completely, this one I posted aggrevated me and I walked away for awhile.

Now for the from scratch files.
I think I will build them and post them when I'm done. They will be from me with my name on them, and the someones out there can be mad if they want I don't care, It is my work of old technology that I'm giving away for you all to use free of charge, not someone elses.

Now I said my piece the horse should be dead
later dudes
chris
 
So, I nominate you for the some kind of a slap on the back and we all appreciate you award. Thanks for being a help. As you know, your time and ability are valuable, and I appreciate your willingness to help others will no greater reward than appreciation. Guys like you are really the ones who make forums like this not only invaluable but fun. I hope you are treated with the respect you deserve as well as understand that those who accuse and malign don't speak for the rest.

Now for the from scratch files.
I think I will build them and post them when I'm done. They will be from me with my name on them, and the someones out there can be mad if they want I don't care, It is my work of old technology that I'm giving away for you all to use free of charge, not someone elses.

Now I said my piece the horse should be dead
later dudes
chris
 
Speaking of the dead horse, I'm hungry for some white castleburgers. Horse meat is once again legal for human consumption in the United States.
 
WOW! I'm off-line for a week (by choice, headed up to Pine Ridge to clear my head and re-center myself, it may be the poorest per-capita place in North America, but the scenery is stunning and there is so much "spirit" in the land up there) and the fecal matter hits the reciprocating airfoil at Mach 2! Well, I'll continue to follow this, and when the gearhead tunes are done, hopefully somebody will come up with a really decent OBD-I economy tune that'll work great with an essentially stock (except for intake and exhaust) '94 C&C with 4L80E and 3.42 gears, that'll get me from 18mpg HWY currently to 22-24, since diesel is headed back up to $5/gal and beyond. Someone developing the same for OBD-II for my '98 K2500 'Burb so I could get the same mileage would be outstanding.
 
Originally Posted by Pepperidgeyou did a great job on the custom tune for my Dmax...I think the 6.5 guys running ATT's will be glad to get your tunes burned...either by someone else or a DIY sort of thing...I'm sure they are going to be shocked at what they were missing/lacking...



I try. I find it fun so long as people don't want it on a deadline. Some tunes take me an hour, but others take me a few weeks to get sorted out(like yours where EVERY table had to be remapped for all 5 tunes). I see alot of potential here over a stock tune to help light off a bigger charger. The tuning is a bit crude compared to the OBD2 DURAMAX, but has alot of potential.



UNDERSTATMENT

Well haven't been around lately because I have been learning about real time tuning and tuning in general. First thanks to Rainstate and TheFermanator. There is a big and I MEAN BIG difference in the way a tune affects the turbo transience time and turbo performance period. That being said the tunes I was using were not the best tune, nor were they good at all for what I am doing. That being said, I have found through TheFermanator that the current idea on how tunes are supposed to be done and (I have looked at a few) > Most tunes are based on one pretense. Well that pretense seems to be incorrect.

I now have a truck that I can drive in fifth gear at 35 miles an hour and accelerate without smoking, And I have a basic smokeless tune that flat ROCKS, and it has power to pull hills like never before. I can also use gears going up hills that I could never do before even when I had the gm eight on there. When I get more hard data I will DYNO the truck and post the data. The truck rocks and pulls like a freight train on steroids. At 1350 I can keep .2 pound of boost steady now under a slight load and transience time is so quick it is not even the same animal. I have a manual trans and I can load it in any gear or go to the next highest gear and load it at low rpm and high fuel rates where most trucks will never stay in that situation long enough to matter. Now I pull in low rpm high torque loads where the gm eight would fall on its face. Still more tweaking but almost 70 percent there.

One side note the truck runs cooler egt's than it ever has even with the gm eight and the coolant temp stays at 188 to 190 with 195 stats in the dual thermostat housing. Runs cooler even under load and egts are lower across the board with power up. Typical example 2368 rpm flat road just cruising ambient temp 90 degree f going down the highway egt 625 degree boost 3.5 psi. Max egts never above 1100 up to 3800 rpm. Max boost 18 psi WOT at 3200 rpm. THERE ARE BIG GAINS to be made in how a tune affects your combination.

I may not know what I am doing, but I know how to put the puzzle pieces together, and the pieces currently needed rearranging to get the picture correct.
 
Rant mode on....
documented in my disassembly, you do not have to break a copyright. You know, I think doing a disassembly to the level of the one that I *gave away* so that someone else could make a from-scratch XDF file is being awful nice since that represents hundreds if not a thousand hours of work.

Many thanks to you for this...me stumbling across your page eventually led me to purchase a 6.5. I'm sure most of the current 6.5 tuning owes at least some gratitude to you. :bow::bow:
 
Originally Posted by Pepperidgeyou did a great job on the custom tune for my Dmax...I think the 6.5 guys running ATT's will be glad to get your tunes burned...either by someone else or a DIY sort of thing...I'm sure they are going to be shocked at what they were missing/lacking...










UNDERSTATMENT

Well haven't been around lately because I have been learning about real time tuning and tuning in general. First thanks to Rainstate and TheFermanator. There is a big and I MEAN BIG difference in the way a tune affects the turbo transience time and turbo performance period. That being said the tunes I was using were not the best tune, nor were they good at all for what I am doing. That being said, I have found through TheFermanator that the current idea on how tunes are supposed to be done and (I have looked at a few) > Most tunes are based on one pretense. Well that pretense seems to be incorrect.

I now have a truck that I can drive in fifth gear at 35 miles an hour and accelerate without smoking, And I have a basic smokeless tune that flat ROCKS, and it has power to pull hills like never before. I can also use gears going up hills that I could never do before even when I had the gm eight on there. When I get more hard data I will DYNO the truck and post the data. The truck rocks and pulls like a freight train on steroids. At 1350 I can keep .2 pound of boost steady now under a slight load and transience time is so quick it is not even the same animal. I have a manual trans and I can load it in any gear or go to the next highest gear and load it at low rpm and high fuel rates where most trucks will never stay in that situation long enough to matter. Now I pull in low rpm high torque loads where the gm eight would fall on its face. Still more tweaking but almost 70 percent there.

One side note the truck runs cooler egt's than it ever has even with the gm eight and the coolant temp stays at 188 to 190 with 195 stats in the dual thermostat housing. Runs cooler even under load and egts are lower across the board with power up. Typical example 2368 rpm flat road just cruising ambient temp 90 degree f going down the highway egt 625 degree boost 3.5 psi. Max egts never above 1100 up to 3800 rpm. Max boost 18 psi WOT at 3200 rpm. THERE ARE BIG GAINS to be made in how a tune affects your combination.

I may not know what I am doing, but I know how to put the puzzle pieces together, and the pieces currently needed rearranging to get the picture correct.

For sure. I just towed the toy hauler this weekend with my Heath tune. And it is a totally different truck. It tows so well now. Some smoke, but not bad. And boost comes in really quick. We need to figure out how to make this tuning work on OBD-II trucks. Really the only smoke is of the line or when I was in traffic and would coast to a red light and then hit the throttle because I didn't have to fully stop. I was climbing a decent hill and exhaust temps only got to 1050. I'm sure if it was longer it would have climbed more. But the truck ran and pulled sweet. Climbing the hill I was at 15 psi in 3rd gear and it was 95 degrees outside.
 
UNDERSTATMENT

Well haven't been around lately because I have been learning about real time tuning and tuning in general. First thanks to Rainstate and TheFermanator. There is a big and I MEAN BIG difference in the way a tune affects the turbo transience time and turbo performance period. That being said the tunes I was using were not the best tune, nor were they good at all for what I am doing. That being said, I have found through TheFermanator that the current idea on how tunes are supposed to be done and (I have looked at a few) > Most tunes are based on one pretense. Well that pretense seems to be incorrect.

I now have a truck that I can drive in fifth gear at 35 miles an hour and accelerate without smoking, And I have a basic smokeless tune that flat ROCKS, and it has power to pull hills like never before. I can also use gears going up hills that I could never do before even when I had the gm eight on there. When I get more hard data I will DYNO the truck and post the data. The truck rocks and pulls like a freight train on steroids. At 1350 I can keep .2 pound of boost steady now under a slight load and transience time is so quick it is not even the same animal. I have a manual trans and I can load it in any gear or go to the next highest gear and load it at low rpm and high fuel rates where most trucks will never stay in that situation long enough to matter. Now I pull in low rpm high torque loads where the gm eight would fall on its face. Still more tweaking but almost 70 percent there.

One side note the truck runs cooler egt's than it ever has even with the gm eight and the coolant temp stays at 188 to 190 with 195 stats in the dual thermostat housing. Runs cooler even under load and egts are lower across the board with power up. Typical example 2368 rpm flat road just cruising ambient temp 90 degree f going down the highway egt 625 degree boost 3.5 psi. Max egts never above 1100 up to 3800 rpm. Max boost 18 psi WOT at 3200 rpm. THERE ARE BIG GAINS to be made in how a tune affects your combination.

I may not know what I am doing, but I know how to put the puzzle pieces together, and the pieces currently needed rearranging to get the picture correct.

Great to see lower EGT's and better turbo spool response, that SHOULD translate into more efficient combustion and hence better fuel mileage (as long as one keeps their right foot out of the go pedal). Will be interesting to see some before/after MPG comparisons under fixed conditions with old/stock tunes and the new ones.
 
I will say one thing, going from looking at these OBD1 6.5 files back to the DURAMAX stuff will make your head spin. At first it looked simliar, but now I see just how different they are.
 
For sure. I just towed the toy hauler this weekend with my Heath tune. And it is a totally different truck. It tows so well now. Some smoke, but not bad. And boost comes in really quick. We need to figure out how to make this tuning work on OBD-II trucks. Really the only smoke is of the line or when I was in traffic and would coast to a red light and then hit the throttle because I didn't have to fully stop. I was climbing a decent hill and exhaust temps only got to 1050. I'm sure if it was longer it would have climbed more. But the truck ran and pulled sweet. Climbing the hill I was at 15 psi in 3rd gear and it was 95 degrees outside.

What kind of weight/load you pulling I pull all the time in 4th up hills which halps with the EGT 850-1000 is max I've seen on grade towing loaded trailers I'm still not running IC or WMI yet either, and if smoke on bottom end is really a nuisance for you Bill can tweak some of that out, usually only time I have that problem is if I stomp the pedal from stop and I get a healthy puff that clears up pretty quickly, in normal acceleration/takeoff I don't get that.

Out of curiosity if running 15psi boost in 3rd, what is your IAT and where is your IC located, I'm still towing without any IC or WMI max IAT runs maybe 180 unless I'm pushing hard but also being in 4th vs 3rd gear when towing keeping boost lower maybe 10-12 max psi and engine seems to like that in most cases than when I try to tow in 3rd.
 
What kind of weight/load you pulling I pull all the time in 4th up hills which halps with the EGT 850-1000 is max I've seen on grade towing loaded trailers I'm still not running IC or WMI yet either, and if smoke on bottom end is really a nuisance for you Bill can tweak some of that out, usually only time I have that problem is if I stomp the pedal from stop and I get a healthy puff that clears up pretty quickly, in normal acceleration/takeoff I don't get that.

Out of curiosity if running 15psi boost in 3rd, what is your IAT and where is your IC located, I'm still towing without any IC or WMI max IAT runs maybe 180 unless I'm pushing hard but also being in 4th vs 3rd gear when towing keeping boost lower maybe 10-12 max psi and engine seems to like that in most cases than when I try to tow in 3rd.

Yeah I only get smoke if I stomp on it and if I take off normal it doesn't smoke. I only had the golf cart in the toy hauler, so probably about 8000-8500. I wanted to check my IAT's but my Dad has my ultragauge and I didn't bring my scanner on this trip. I am going to order another ultragauge so I have it hooked up all the time. My intercooler is one hanging down below the front end. When I put the turbo on I figured if it didn't line up well to the intercooler I would just take it off. But the tube actually lined up better with the ATT than when I built it for the GM8. So I just left it. And I was actually going to take some IAT readings with it and then without it. But right after I got the ATT in march we took a trip to Walker River in Nevada and on the morning we were supposed to come home, my parents were leaving(from Walker River also) to start their trip back to PA to visit family, and my Dad's Powerstroke took forever to start. And then as it was warming up it would die. It stalled 3 times sitting there idling hooking up the trailer. So I gave him my ultrgauge so if his truck kept acting up he could at least pull codes. Needless to say I never got it back.
 
So I gave him my ultrgauge so if his truck kept acting up he could at least pull codes. Needless to say I never got it back.

And PARENTS complain about kids never putting things back or returning them when done!:errr::crazy:
 
And PARENTS complain about kids never putting things back or returning them when done!:errr::crazy:

I know. I think it's pay back. I remember getting yelled at for leaving the tv and lights on. He comes to my house now and doors are left open, tv is on and nobody is in the room, every light in the damn house is on. I think he does it just to piss me off.
 
Seeing the best running truck I have ever had, still tweaking but getting very very close to a smokeless tune that flat rocks. The truck is so smooth that it is almost hard to imagine that I have been driving it like it was for so long. Real time tuning takes a lot of time but the results are well worth it.
 
Maybe when you get your truck sorted out you can loan the real time stuff to other tuners. I've had 50+ chips in my truck at this point, and I think my tune from a month ago was the best I had.
 
Maybe when you get your truck sorted out you can loan the real time stuff to other tuners. I've had 50+ chips in my truck at this point, and I think my tune from a month ago was the best I had.
\

Best way I found is to number the tune, then I take a scanner and run the truck watch where it smokes write it down make modifications and then re run the truck to see if the mod works. So far it is working for me, have about 25 hours total drive and desk time into this tune. Real time tuning makes it much quicker, pull over make changes drive on. don't like go back to my original tune start over get something good keep it next version then all over again. It is time consuming but I have found that the one tune fits all does not work. Most tunes I have looked at only modify the timing and fuel table. Only one guy has done more that I have seen. I was at 3500 rpm today and smooth as glass, sucked the restrictor indicator down on my k47 air box with a large filter, now what do I do.
 
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