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Compounds

It most likely isn't genuine Holset, but for $40 I figured I can't lose. Can't justify spending $150+ for a billet wheel made in Taiwan with tooling marks/ ridges between the blades. Nitpicking and probably not noticeable in performance but I've read those ridges you see in all billet wheels increase drag and are weak spots in the material.

anywho...

Here's some pictures of the wheel compared to what came with the unit I purchased. 6 blade on the left, stock 7 on the rightIMG_0644[1].JPG

Underside, note no part numbers or machining marks on the mystery 6 blade compared to the 7

IMG_0645[1].JPG

Close up of part numbers/ letters/ identification on 7 blade
IMG_0647[1].JPG

Wish I had taken more measurements but it does seem to fit as it should. I could email the seller and see if he has any info on the wheel's origins. If only he had a 10 blade 70/60 turbine too! 🤣
 
We maybe getting the turbine soon. I'll let you know when I know for sure.

Please let us know if they have a brand.
 
I'll reach out to the seller and see what comes up...

Did you pre-order a turbine from prosource diesel? It now just says out of stock on the website, when I spoke to Daniel last week I got the same backorder 6-8 week story and that they took away the pre- order option since they have no idea when the next batch is coming. Any chance you pre- ordered 2 units? 😉
 
Where are you looking up your part numbers? I'd love to know what the actual part number is for a 6 blade 60/86 compressor wheel that fits the HX40!

this is the turbo I have, says in the description its a genuine Holset HX40 compressor


I installed the wheel yesterday, and it fits perfectly. Zero clearance issues. Think I got lucky for a change! I forgot to measure tip height on the 6 blade unit before installing, but may be able to do so with compressor cover off. I did take some pictures, will post soon.

Are you planning on installing this turbo and testing it any time soon with the new wheel?
 
I need to get my CAC (intercooler) installed first. Am also hoping to do a DB2 conversion at the same time as the turbo has to be removed to do injection lines anyways. Might get it all done by the end of the month, just very busy at the moment with things ramping up on the farm and lots of construction work keeping me away from home most days. I'll definitely keep ya posted though, happy to start another thread as I know this originally started as a compounds thread
 
I'm totally fine with how this thread has progressed. Lots of good information here. If you start a new thread please come here and let us know.
 
What kind of intercooler are you using? I pickup up a spare core support in the junk yard that I've fitted a second gen Dodge intercooler and a 2004 Duramax radiator in. Looks like it's gonna work pretty good.

You want regret doing the DB2 swap. I enjoy my truck so much more since I did my swap.
 
What kind of intercooler are you using? I pickup up a spare core support in the junk yard that I've fitted a second gen Dodge intercooler and a 2004 Duramax radiator in. Looks like it's gonna work pretty good.

You want regret doing the DB2 swap. I enjoy my truck so much more since I did my swap.

won't regret
 
I'm doing the CAC mounted between the frame rails. Chris @Twisted Steel Performance was kind enough to set me up with some heavy duty brackets for mounting in this location using the skid plate mounting holes, as well as a moose Jr DB2 on loan until I have the funds for a built DB2. Classic Diesel Designs in Texas seems like a quality source for pumps, but I'm also interested to see what @Rockabillyrat comes up with this summer with his built pumps too.

This is the intercooler I purchased for my application: https://www.ebay.com/itm/31-X11-75-...-Turbo-Intercooler-For-Chevrolet/310557258951

also purchased a general 3" intercooler piping system from ebay and will use @uniquediesel's upper intake plenum

I know you can fit the 2nd gen dodge CAC in the core support, but I thought the cooling stack was a weak point as is, especially for an IDI diesel. I'd much rather have the CAC in the core support, but since I do a lot of heavy towing in the summer I'd rather not tax the radiator any more than I have to. Not trying to discourage you, definitely try it out and let us know how she performs! I'll keep this thread updated with my swap, maybe there will be a miracle soon and the 10 blade turbine will show up too
 
I don't seem to have the same problem with cooling that other people have. It may be that I have a 2000 enhanced engine. And also I have a manual so I don't have to cool that hot transmission fluid. I tow also and never had a problem with the coolant temperature only the egt's.
 
I'm doing the CAC mounted between the frame rails. Chris @Twisted Steel Performance was kind enough to set me up with some heavy duty brackets for mounting in this location using the skid plate mounting holes, as well as a moose Jr DB2 on loan until I have the funds for a built DB2. Classic Diesel Designs in Texas seems like a quality source for pumps, but I'm also interested to see what @Rockabillyrat comes up with this summer with his built pumps too.

This is the intercooler I purchased for my application: https://www.ebay.com/itm/31-X11-75-...-Turbo-Intercooler-For-Chevrolet/310557258951

also purchased a general 3" intercooler piping system from ebay and will use @uniquediesel's upper intake plenum

I know you can fit the 2nd gen dodge CAC in the core support, but I thought the cooling stack was a weak point as is, especially for an IDI diesel. I'd much rather have the CAC in the core support, but since I do a lot of heavy towing in the summer I'd rather not tax the radiator any more than I have to. Not trying to discourage you, definitely try it out and let us know how she performs! I'll keep this thread updated with my swap, maybe there will be a miracle soon and the 10 blade turbine will show up too
The setup you are going for sounds very similar to mine. I don't have a 10 blade turbine, but I bored my exducer housing 2mm which probably has the same effect. Fun truck to drive and it tows well (10-14k).
 
Do You have a source for the pipe kit or is that something You put together yourself ?


Pics are gone but the info is still there...

Parts needed --

Use either 3” or 2.5” what ever you want. This list shows all 3” products.

1 - CAC - 27”x12”x3” -- cxracing part# - 1023107000034 - 123.00$
2 - 90* aluminum tubing - cxracing part# - 1005107000352 - 14.38$ ea
1 - 45* aluminum tubing - cxracing part# - 1005107000347 - 12.99$
1 - 75* aluminum tubing - cxracing part# - 1005107000348 - 13.89$
1 - straight aluminum tubing - I had in stock
12 - 3” SS T-bolts - cxracing- 30.00$ ( purchased as a pack of 12)
2 - 45* 3” silicone coupler - Siliconeintakes.com - 16.99 ea
5 - 3” silicone hump couplings - Siliconeintakes.com - 12.99$ ea (depends on size)

This parts list might need to be different for other year trucks but will be very close for all 88-98 GMT400 body trucks & subs.
 
@MrMarty51

I got a piping kit similar to this, but in black. One more thing taking up room in my barn at the moment


I also have to get a different wastegate actuator bracket for the 35/40, the one it came with is vertical and I foresee clearance issues. The bracket from a 40 is horizontal and can be found here

 
This what I have.
 

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Also what base timing are you running? The DB2 doesn't have a large timing curve. The pump is physically capable of 11-12* of camshaft advance. But due to the LLA armature is only sees 3-4*. Advancing your base timing will help lower EGTs and improve MPG. but it also increases cylinder pressure so be reasonable. I'm working on some parts to redesign the DB2 timing curve that should be in testing this summer.

So how is the fueling on these higher output DB2? Are they capable of getting good fuel mileage for normal driving and just put out more when you get into it?
 
This what I have.

Can you confirm that setup fits in the engine by and doesn't hit the air box? I also like the idea of a mechanical turbo master, but only visual proof I've seen of a holset working in place (not to say it doesn't exist or is possible elsewhere) is @n8in8or's CKO HX40 with the aforementioned horizontal actuator
 
So how is the fueling on these higher output DB2? Are they capable of getting good fuel mileage for normal driving and just put out more when you get into it?


The one downside to a mechanical rotary pump is when you increase fueling in the upper RPM it DRASTICLY increases low RPM fueling too. So they tend to be smokey under acceleration. The way to fix this is with a aneroid like hypermax smoke puff limiter. And if you want to dial it in even more you can control the aneroid with a boost controller. A simple mechanical boost control will do the job. If you really want to dial it in even more an electronic boost controller is the next step. Using one with RPM input will allow you to set your fueling at various RPM ranges. That will really help flatten the fuel curve and take the smoke out of the low end.

So to answer your question a modified DB2 will be fine in a daily driver if you use an aneroid to dial in the fuel curve. I will be running them on all my pumps.
 
The one downside to a mechanical rotary pump is when you increase fueling in the upper RPM it DRASTICLY increases low RPM fueling too. So they tend to be smokey under acceleration. The way to fix this is with a aneroid like hypermax smoke puff limiter. And if you want to dial it in even more you can control the aneroid with a boost controller. A simple mechanical boost control will do the job. If you really want to dial it in even more an electronic boost controller is the next step. Using one with RPM input will allow you to set your fueling at various RPM ranges. That will really help flatten the fuel curve and take the smoke out of the low end.

So to answer your question a modified DB2 will be fine in a daily driver if you use an aneroid to dial in the fuel curve. I will be running them on all my pumps.

Well you need to hurry up! 😜
 
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