Compounds

[Rockabillyrat]

Have you ever tried a quick spool valve on the 18cm? The only advantage to running a twin scroll housing in a open system is you can close off half the turbine with a spool valve to help it spool in the lower rpms. Then the valve opens and allows for full flow through the turbine housing when you reach your set boost level.

 

[dixiepc]

I've got a brand new QSV setting on the shelf. Never could figure out how to control it to suit what I wanted it to do.

 

[Will L.]

Well yeah a qsv on 12cm is not needed. You said you had an 18, did you try the qsv with that?

I am hoping for the cash to do that same turbo that Chris ran- auto trans, but want bottom end just like needed between shifts
And I won’t tow often but aerodynamics of a hummer with a taller than normal roof is like a brick building going down the highway.-
Then the stupid angle of the radiator- yeah ... sometimes I miss square bodies...

 

[dixiepc]

I got it long before I had the 12cm2 housing. I have a 18 and a 21.

I've never used the QSV. Couldn't figure out a way to control it that suited me.

 

[dixiepc]

My turbo is pretty much a 35/40. I have an H1C with the Gillette 60mm wheel and compressor cover. I cut the v-band flange off the cover so it would mate up with the 6.5 upper manifold. When I started planning on a compound setup I realized that the v-band flange would be useful. So I got Gillette to send me another cover. It was a Holset H1E cover. I've been told that an H1E is just an older version of the HX40 and the H1C is the older version of the HX35.

 

[Twisted Steel Performance]

The vgts have already crossed my mind but I'm not willing to use any electronic controls.

Looks like you built something like what I want to do. 18:1, cac, and more fuel. Basically all I want to build is a strong dependable engine the will daily drive and tow maybe a camper and make around 300hp or so.

So how was your 35/40 sized and mounted?

A lot of info here, the pics are gone but the info is there as well as the turbo specs I sett;ed with... the thread on DP is much longer...

Another 6.5 build---- for towing

www.dieselplace.com

Yet another 6.5 build --- this one for towing

Alright, some of you know about my build already, so I will bring others up to speed on what I have done so far and what my planes are for this motor. First off, I bought a Military 6.5 N/A take out from Teds Trucks back 4 months ago. I planed to rebuild it 100% and have a strong motor for...

www.thetruckstop.us

 

[FellowTraveler]

Well yeah a qsv on 12cm is not needed. You said you had an 18, did you try the qsv with that?

I am hoping for the cash to do that same turbo that Chris ran- auto trans, but want bottom end just like needed between shifts
And I won’t tow often but aerodynamics of a hummer with a taller than normal roof is like a brick building going down the highway.-
Then the stupid angle of the radiator- yeah ... sometimes I miss square bodies...

The QSV with an 18cm2 will be 9cm2 closed...

 

[Will L.]

@FellowTraveler Yeah, thats why I was thinking that should have given some kind of descent results.
I was considering some kind of qsv on paper for my hummer because off roading I could just put it in a solid closed position witha switch/dial and then let the engine really breathe easy when getting on the freeway. Getting one to fit in there and the cost is why it never happened. If I could ring myself to chopping away enough floorboard for the down pipe and let the turbo sit back farther into the cabin then the space is solved. But a big turbo and qsv is to expensive an experiment to chop up the body for.

 

[dixiepc]

My QSV is only about 5/8" thick. My exhaust can be lifted that much without changing anything. I just couldn't figure out how to make it open for highway cruising.

 

[Will L.]

Yeah, the fuel solenoid for a 6bt cummins. You hit a switch and it pulls open and stays open. you could have it (or a second one) going the other way to to force it shut which was my thought.
I looked into those divided butterfly types. I just panicked because of seeing when the fail. So figured i need one that I could weld up the butterfly to the shaft.

 

[dixiepc]

Mine is welded.

I would like it to work with boost or drive pressure but still be able to open it wide for highway driving.

 

[FellowTraveler]

Mine is welded.

I would like it to work with boost or drive pressure but still be able to open it wide for highway driving.

A marine Morse type control cable with a lever in cab would make it all mechanical, I see these cables on the bay real cheap.
I know one guy who uses the same cable setup for his Cummins in case of a run away, yank that lever and no more runaway.

 

[Will L.]

Yeah, off drive pressure is the way I see most of them. Guys use the dial control on the dash so its a hose from turbo to the dial, back to turbo. And yeah- a cable would be super easy to manually open that could easily over ride without doing any damage. Cable is lower cost and better. I am stuck in thinking on my hummer and a cable to mine would be way more difficult because of the doghouse- great idea FT.
I am trying to remember who it was on here that uses the dial for controlling their turbo- @n8in8or is that you?

 

[Rockabillyrat]

I would control the QSV it with a manual boost controller. A drive pressure gauge is a really good idea too if your going to run it that way.

 

[n8in8or]

Yeah, off drive pressure is the way I see most of them. Guys use the dial control on the dash so its a hose from turbo to the dial, back to turbo. And yeah- a cable would be super easy to manually open that could easily over ride without doing any damage. Cable is lower cost and better. I am stuck in thinking on my hummer and a cable to mine would be way more difficult because of the doghouse- great idea FT.
I am trying to remember who it was on here that uses the dial for controlling their turbo- @n8in8or is that you?

I used a manual boost controller on my turbo’s wastegate to limit boost. That was mounted next to the turbo. I used a electronic boost controller in the cab to control the aneroid on my IP to control how much fuel it was putting out relative to boost pressure. I liked the electronic boost controller setup and plan to expand on that further in future builds.

 

[n8in8or]

Mine is welded.

I would like it to work with boost or drive pressure but still be able to open it wide for highway driving.

I always wanted to do that as well. The trick is finding a power source to power an actuator and then having something that would snap it back closed quickly if you were wanting your turbo to respond quickly, like if you needed to pass somebody...... or were just bored. The best idea I could come up with was to use engine oil pressure as a power source, but never tried it. Maybe some day. It’s really just something on the wish list and not a high priority item at the moment. I want to go faster first.

 

[FellowTraveler]

Yeah, off drive pressure is the way I see most of them. Guys use the dial control on the dash so its a hose from turbo to the dial, back to turbo. And yeah- a cable would be super easy to manually open that could easily over ride without doing any damage. Cable is lower cost and better. I am stuck in thinking on my hummer and a cable to mine would be way more difficult because of the doghouse- great idea FT.
I am trying to remember who it was on here that uses the dial for controlling their turbo- @n8in8or is that you?

Thanks Will...

 

[dixiepc]

After reading both of Chris's threads I think I'm gonna try and update my turbo with a 10 blade turbine wheel and a 6 blade 60/86 compressor wheel. Hopefully it'll breath better and be able to handle a higher pressure ratio.

 

[Will L.]

It really seems to be the perfect set up for a stick and an ip putting out a bit...

 

[Chewy1576]

If anyone wants to give a VGT setup a go, I will be removing mine in the near future. The turbo is leaking oil and needs a rebuild. Instead if fixing it, I'm going to go to an S364SXE/68/0.88T4.