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Cold Air Intake

Yes you would need to diffuse flow off a leaf blower, was just brain storming at the time, but considering the alternative that ain't gonna happen, with my wife hanging out the window as I drive, "how's it look dear" trying to get her to watch the pennants, I might convince my 16 y/o son to hang his head out the "winder" jaws a flappin in the breeze like a bloodhound.

Also a shop vac set to blow & diffused if you have a big shop vac mite be an option, or maybe one of those high cfm pedistal mount shop fans.

Add in some dry ice smoke, or maybe a mosquito fogger and you'll be almost like a wind tunnel test, a redneck solution but should work; for wind speed data, get one of those indicators snow skiers use to measure wind set up in front of the fender.

Get some PVC pipe & visquene, bend the pipe in an arch shape add in fittings to support it all, & viola a DIY wind tunnel.
 
Tim -

I always admire when someone answers a question with hard facts and actual measured data.

I wonder whether putting insulation around the box would make much difference?

Perhaps I am reacting to the so-called CAI units, where they seem completely inadequate to me, at least in terms of thermal protection from engine compartment heat. Many of them seem worse than stock.

From what I understand, the actual size of the stock unit (esp. if you use a high-flow unit like Amsoil) is actually quite adequate for the max CFM draw, so if the thermal transfer problem could be solved, it would be fine to stay with what we have (with a little improvement).

Hmmm. I'll have to walk the hardware store aisles to see what can be used. Need to get a remote thermometer as well.. Hmmm.

-Rob :)

Thanks for the kudos Rod, Ashton (wercker) eluded earlier that I was working on a CAI, I am just taking time to do it right and address all pitfalls of such a unit and still be a KISS solution, I think insulation could help, maybe foil backed foam like in house ac duct work, but I think also a CAI that increases pulling flow that isolates air from engine bay is a plus also factory boxes are too restrictive & we know that, open top CAIs do not meet this requirement IMO to exclude underhood air.
 
IMO if you look at all the open area's behind the grill,there's plenty of airflow happening all ready. removing the snorkel and opening the air inlet in the fender wall some +boxing in the area in front of the batt from fender to rad and bottom to top rad support will give a true cold air intake. If you have a squire filter, changing to a round stockfilter will give the engine all the air it can handle.

my 2c
 
IMO if you look at all the open area's behind the grill,there's plenty of airflow happening all ready. removing the snorkel and opening the air inlet in the fender wall some +boxing in the area in front of the batt from fender to rad and bottom to top rad support will give a true cold air intake. If you have a squire filter, changing to a round stockfilter will give the engine all the air it can handle. Nunh unhh does not : :D

my 2c

96 was last year of snorkel IIRC, get a GM-8 spooled all out and the filter blocked indicator pops even on a new filter, I've not sucked in filter housing walls yet with my ATT but I wonder if I'm close at times,
 
96 was last year of snorkel IIRC, get a GM-8 spooled all out and the filter blocked indicator pops even on a new filter, I've not sucked in filter housing walls yet with my ATT but I wonder if I'm close at times,
Are you referring to the stock filter being inadequate?
Or the intake duct trough the fender?
 
The ducting through the filter stopped in 96 or so, and I think a lot of people pull it out anyway, mine was removed before I bought it.

I didnt realize the stock system was that restrictive that that stock turbo could make the low airflow indicator pop, although when I switched from the stock rectangle box to the SSDS kit the turbo spun up so much faster and whined so much louder.
 
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