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Bye-bye Gov-Lock, Hello Tru Trac, plus gear swap and brakes

 
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If this doesn't work, I give up. I took screen shots and put them in a .pdf.
 

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I got the new carrier bearings installed.

015C70FC-AEB8-44F5-965A-7F3D8629D67D.jpeg

I tried 3 different carrier shims (besides the super thick shim). The first time I used a .010 shim and this gave me barely .001 of backlash. The second time I took that shim out and I had .008 of backlash (it’s supposed to be between .005 and .009 for a 9.5 14 bolt). But it the pattern was telling me I needed to reduce the backlash.

EDCBCD4A-1712-41BA-94E3-47DC6F522BF2.jpeg

So I found a .007 shim and installed that. That gave me .005 of backlash. The pattern is better, but still isn’t great. I need to take some pinion shim out.

40F8026B-F75D-4AAE-B668-770CAC07B815.jpeg

I took apart the pinion and I had a .015 and a .013 shim in there (for a total of .028). I’m not sure how much I should take out of that to try to optimize the pattern. Anyone with experience setting up gears have a recommendation? That will be my starting point tomorrow evening.
 
I've been using green 3M Scotchbritefor decades to scuff new rotors/shoes and drums/shoes.
BIG difference in brake break in time. More like one stop.
Also mentioned was rolling stops after heating them up. (Keeps the pads from crystalising the rotors in one spot, and the resulting pulsing stops) took /years to train Wifey to do this. Flush the fluid yearly, your calipers and wheel cylinders won't rust.
 
Tonight was pretty frustrating. First thing I did since I was pretty sure I’d have to do a few set ups was create a set of setup bearings. I ground the inside of the old pinion bearings so I could slide them off and on to change shims without using the bearing puller. That wasn’t a big deal.....well except for the dremel frying. Grrr. Luckily I have a cordless one for backup.

CFD7CA9F-5DBE-4A36-84B2-35F409B53F97.jpeg

So then I started setting up the gears again. I’m having a really hard time seeing the pattern on the gears. I read a thread today talking about making the marking compound the consistency of chocolate syrup by adding some gear oil. Nope, that didn’t help either. I’m starting to think it’s because the gears are used and worn in. Not sure yet if that’s going to be a problem or not. I tried a couple different pinion shims and the results are still inconclusive. I’ll try some more tomorrow.
 
n8in8or said:
Tonight was pretty frustrating. First thing I did since I was pretty sure I’d have to do a few set ups was create a set of setup bearings. I ground the inside of the old pinion bearings so I could slide them off and on to change shims without using the bearing puller. That wasn’t a big deal.....well except for the dremel frying. Grrr. Luckily I have a cordless one for backup.

View attachment 52690

So then I started setting up the gears again. I’m having a really hard time seeing the pattern on the gears. I read a thread today talking about making the marking compound the consistency of chocolate syrup by adding some gear oil. Nope, that didn’t help either. I’m starting to think it’s because the gears are used and worn in. Not sure yet if that’s going to be a problem or not. I tried a couple different pinion shims and the results are still inconclusive. I’ll try some more tomorrow.
Click to expand...

Is prussian blue something that would work here?

https://www.permatex.com/products/s...epair/rebuilders-aids/permatex-prussian-blue/
 
ak diesel driver said:
I wonder if less compound would be better
Click to expand...
I've tried more. I've tried less. I feel like what's going on here is that because these are used gears......with who knows how many miles......they are really worn into each other. Because of that, more of the face of the gears is contacting each other so it's wiping the compound off of pretty much the whole tooth. That's my theory. I can kind see a contact point, but it's really wiping almost all of the compound off. It isn't like when I set up the new gears 2 years ago.

I read in a thread I found yesterday that one guy only goes off the coast side of the tooth when setting up used gears because the drive side of the teeth were worn into each other already. So that kind of gives me the idea there. Unfortunately, I'm not even getting a good reading off of the coast side. It's pretty frustrating because I don't want to go through all of the work just to have them not be right and end up tearing it apart again. I think I'm going to look for a set of American Axle 3.42 gears. The factory is only a half hour from me, but I doubt they would sell direct..... Nor do they probably have them in stock.
 
I just looked at the earlier pics I posted and you can even see the problem there. You can almost see where the teeth are pretty much fully contacting each other and it's just pulling the compound right off. Yeah you can make out a main contact location, but the rest of the tooth shouldn't have that much compound removed from it. I wonder if they're so worn that they won't give me other problems too....
 
Here’s a pic of how the compound is mostly wiping off. This is after it sat all night so that’s why it looks dry, still you should get the idea.

31FF9EB2-1F38-4666-8C57-B5AD4AA09D42.jpeg

And this was with .005 of backlash, so it’s not like the gears are meshing so hard that they’re wiping the compound off. I think they’re just worn. They could probably be made to work, and may be just fine, but I’m not interested in taking that risk - part of the reason for the swap is to finally have quiet gears! So I bit the bullet and bought a set of AAM gears from a place in Missouri today. Hopefully I have them Monday or Tuesday. In the meantime I’ll work on the brakes.....
 
With used gears you need to loosen up your backlash to the .010-.013 range in my experience. I've also found with used gears it is best to use the set up tools, find your zero pinion depth with the depth guage, add or subtract the amount stamped on the pinion, put it together, set the backlash to .010-.012, and let it roll.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
With used gears you need to loosen up your backlash to the .010-.013 range in my experience. I've also found with used gears it is best to use the set up tools, find your zero pinion depth with the depth guage, add or subtract the amount stamped on the pinion, put it together, set the backlash to .010-.012, and let it roll.
Click to expand...
That makes sense. I wondered about that - needing more backlash to replicate how the gears would have worn. 2 problems: 1 - I don’t have the set up tools and 2 - the pinion isn’t stamped with any numbers....which seemed weird to me. Thanks for the info.
 
At a gear and driveline shop I went to years ago, a shop had a 240v motor that they hooked up to problem axles to run for noise testing. No clue how to
Deal with that gear problem other than write a check to a pro.
 
Will L. said:
At a gear and driveline shop I went to years ago, a shop had a 240v motor that they hooked up to problem axles to run for noise testing. No clue how to
Deal with that gear problem other than write a check to a pro.
Click to expand...
That’s cool! Would they run them with the cover open? If so, how did they keep them from burning up?
 
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