Bleeding Closed Clutch - 95 K2500 manual

[treegump]

I did a search of the forum and didn't find too much information on the closed clutch system and how best to bleed it.

Found this video that might help:

 

[MrMarty51]

I usually fill the reservoir then crack open the bleeder screw and let gravity take over.

 

[ak diesel driver]

I had to reverse bleed the one in my escort. Filled a pump oil can with brake fluid and then attached a hose from it to the bleeder screw and filled the reservoir

 

[Twisted Steel Performance]

When I put a braided steel line on mine the hose maker had the best way for these systems...

If you still have the steel line this will work on the truck as well, I did mine in a vise then mounted everything, in the truck it is best to remove the slave, make what ever you need to so the plunger rod doesn't come out then do as below...

Fill the clutch reservoir, then slowly push the slave rod all the way in making sure the slave is hanging down so air will go up and out the line, this is a somewhat slow process, do this several times until when you push the slave rod in you don't see bubbles in the reservoir..

Don't get in a hurry if it is in the truck, the fluid will be slow to travel and the air is also slow moving up.. I have the best smooth clutch after this, I tried everything and always had a petal that I didn't like, now, it's like a real clutch should be...

With the later internal slaves it may not work as good as with a external slave...

 

[Rockabillyrat]

When I put a braided steel line on mine the hose maker had the best way for these systems...

If you still have the steel line this will work on the truck as well, I did mine in a vise then mounted everything, in the truck it is best to remove the slave, make what ever you need to so the plunger rod doesn't come out then do as below...

Fill the clutch reservoir, then slowly push the slave rod all the way in making sure the slave is hanging down so air will go up and out the line, this is a somewhat slow process, do this several times until when you push the slave rod in you don't see bubbles in the reservoir..

Don't get in a hurry if it is in the truck, the fluid will be slow to travel and the air is also slow moving up.. I have the best smooth clutch after this, I tried everything and always had a petal that I didn't like, now, it's like a real clutch should be...

With the later internal slaves it may not work as good as with a external slave...

Thats exactly how I do them. Best method I've found yet.

 

[Will L.]

I friggin hate hydraulic clutches. Big, pivoting, metal bars. I want solid metal from my foot to the throw out bearing. I even prefer a cable over hydraulic.

 

[treegump]

Unless you're talking about the small hex screw that I think is rusted in, I couldn't find a bleeder screw. Is there another one I didn't see?

 

[MrMarty51]

OH MY, if there is not a bleeder device on the top side then, I believe that slave cylinder is about done in. Unless You can drill and easy out the screw, without messing up the seat.
I also think that the bleeder should be on the top, but, not sure if it really matters. Air bubbles usually tries to float upwards.

 

[ak diesel driver]

I'd look at a new one before drilling it. Might just be a manufacturing plug

 

[Twisted Steel Performance]

If that one isn't leaking I would still use it, if you follow my directions you can still bled it just fine, you just need to be quick removing it and reinstalling it.. but yes their should be a bled screw on the top..

 

[treegump]

I’ll check the top side the next time I’m able to. Thanks! I have no pressure now.

also, received Leroy’s PMD yesterday, so I’ll be checking that out also.