ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
Sounds like the lining in your fuel tank coming off.
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Best air filter set up on 6.5
- Thread starter Stoney
- Start date
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
I'd check your tank sock and the lift pump to see if they're getting plugged too.
I may get rid of the fuel sock while I'm in there. Replaced it last year but was told they cause problems. Some one on here said to use a inline filter right before the lift pump instead but nobody ever said what kind to use... Any ideas?? What's weird is the truck will run like a champ at times..take off fast..lots of power..push the pedal and she's gone..then you can stop at a light or something and go to take off and she "feels like" she trying to take off in high gear..can barely get going. (Had tranny scanned and no codes) and it's actually shifting fine..that's just how it feels..and even once you get up to speed she still has little power. .. another weird thing (and this could just be my imagination) when it has that problem, it feels like the gas pedal pushes really hard.. but again might be my imagination.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
Sure sounds like tank sock is getting plugged. IIRC the advice is for a pretty coarse 30 micron filter before the LP. What ever style you want
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Fuel pressure gauge tapped at the ip would tell everything except if the ip screen is plugged. The only time I ever saw them plugged is when people remove the that little cylinder filter screen in the ffm. a lot of people install fuel pressure gauges but also use a snubber that stops the flutter of the gauge- Imo a mistake. A fluttering gauge can be valuable info.
clear ip return line.
i am sure we went over these before but don’t see it in signature.
debris in the fuel system will kill any diesel.
Drop the tank and clean or replace. Yes to remove sock and install pre filter. If you can’t source one local, Leroy sells one for $65.
clear ip return line.
i am sure we went over these before but don’t see it in signature.
debris in the fuel system will kill any diesel.
Drop the tank and clean or replace. Yes to remove sock and install pre filter. If you can’t source one local, Leroy sells one for $65.
Ok @Will L. My next question. Since I'm pretty sure that screen in the ffm got tossed during a filter change,( coincidentally when truck started acting up), I assume I should pull the inlet from the I.p. and clean that filter your talking about to.. BUT. If I do, do I need any the of seal or gasket or sealent when I put it back together? Never messed with a I.p. before and want to make sure I have everything I need before I start cause the truck is my only source of transportation. A have to be able to drive it to work every evening.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
Nothing needed but careful cleanliness, don't want gunk getting into the IP
Out of curiosity..cause I don't know how the fuel sucks through the filter ... Is it possible that the screen missing is causing a fueling issue? Like perhaps the space it usually fills is being blocked by the rubber at bottom of the big filter? Or the filter is shifting so to speak and obstructing fuel flow ??? Just a thought.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
In the fuel tank is the “sock”. It is a plastic mesh screen on the pick up tube. If it gets plugged nothing works right. Removing the tank and taking out the pickup tube fuel gauge assembly comes out and you have to clean out the tank or replace it.
The risks are Metal fuel lines could be rusty, get bent,etc. rubber lines should be replaced as you go. The fuel level sending unit that houses the pickup and return tubes can be rusty and not reusable once removed. Those are $60-$300 depending on brand. The tank straps rust and go bad sometimes but a 1” ratchet stap will get you buy a week or two until the real ones come in from rock auto and are on
from there metal fuel line, which in a bind could be replaced with all rubber hose, could be bad.
Then you have the lift pump which can plug up or go bad.
Then more metal line to a small piece of rubber line to the ffm.
that little screen in the ffm is $12 from Leroy.
Little more new rubber line to the ip then the ip screen- you might talk to Quadstar about that if replacement is needed. But honestly if that is torn or misshaped enough to need replacement then your ip ate something huge and probably wont survive it. Figure out just water can destroy an ip. A pinch of dirt (amount like a pinch of salt a cook uses on one egg) will destroy an ip.
So the lift pump sucks fuel from the tank and pumps it through the filter and to the injection pump. If the lift pump fails, the injection pump can suck fuel all the way from the tank, but it is super hard on it and wears out the injection pump quickly. It usually does damage to the head and rotor (the 2 expensive parts). This damage happens for both ds4 and db2 pumps- thats why I push for a pressure gauge so bad. Anything in the line anywhere restricting the fuel will create the problem.
My favorite picture to show why the fuel pressure gauge should be tapped via all metal on the ip is showing a rubber hose flap inside the rubber fuel line that attaches directly to the ip. The cable tie is pointing out the rubber flap that caused “ip failure” issue when the ip was actually ok. Even with a fuel pressure gauge anywhere else in the system it would have looked like fuel supplyis good when it was the cause. If a certain someone wants to fes up to ownership of this pic...ok. Otherwise I will just say thank you and keep using it as a teaching tool.
Someone out there will eventually make a ds4 FTB fitting with a 1/8” port for a gauge. Probably not until you ds4 guys keep asking for it and figure out it’s real value. The normal FTB fitting is like what $60? Spend $120 to get one with a 1/8” fitting. Db2 gets to just add a street tee.
Oh yeah, I forgot to say: If you tear into the system and remove the tank or have lines you can’t get replaced in time and have to go to work. You wouldn’t be the first person to use a 5 gallon jerry can tied down in the bed with 2 rubber fuel lines (one supply and one return) going straight to the ip and from return after ip meets injector returns back to the can. Just make sure the hoses seal off fairly well from road dirt in the can and both hoses go to the bottom of the can and it is PERFECTLY clean. Those boat fuel cans work good. A friend once used a 10 gallon one for a month while rebuilding his entire system waiting for new parts. They have 1 pickup tube but had to drill an undersized hole to force the return line in to the bottom and have it not come out.
The risks are Metal fuel lines could be rusty, get bent,etc. rubber lines should be replaced as you go. The fuel level sending unit that houses the pickup and return tubes can be rusty and not reusable once removed. Those are $60-$300 depending on brand. The tank straps rust and go bad sometimes but a 1” ratchet stap will get you buy a week or two until the real ones come in from rock auto and are on
from there metal fuel line, which in a bind could be replaced with all rubber hose, could be bad.
Then you have the lift pump which can plug up or go bad.
Then more metal line to a small piece of rubber line to the ffm.
that little screen in the ffm is $12 from Leroy.
Little more new rubber line to the ip then the ip screen- you might talk to Quadstar about that if replacement is needed. But honestly if that is torn or misshaped enough to need replacement then your ip ate something huge and probably wont survive it. Figure out just water can destroy an ip. A pinch of dirt (amount like a pinch of salt a cook uses on one egg) will destroy an ip.
So the lift pump sucks fuel from the tank and pumps it through the filter and to the injection pump. If the lift pump fails, the injection pump can suck fuel all the way from the tank, but it is super hard on it and wears out the injection pump quickly. It usually does damage to the head and rotor (the 2 expensive parts). This damage happens for both ds4 and db2 pumps- thats why I push for a pressure gauge so bad. Anything in the line anywhere restricting the fuel will create the problem.
My favorite picture to show why the fuel pressure gauge should be tapped via all metal on the ip is showing a rubber hose flap inside the rubber fuel line that attaches directly to the ip. The cable tie is pointing out the rubber flap that caused “ip failure” issue when the ip was actually ok. Even with a fuel pressure gauge anywhere else in the system it would have looked like fuel supplyis good when it was the cause. If a certain someone wants to fes up to ownership of this pic...ok. Otherwise I will just say thank you and keep using it as a teaching tool.
Someone out there will eventually make a ds4 FTB fitting with a 1/8” port for a gauge. Probably not until you ds4 guys keep asking for it and figure out it’s real value. The normal FTB fitting is like what $60? Spend $120 to get one with a 1/8” fitting. Db2 gets to just add a street tee.
Oh yeah, I forgot to say: If you tear into the system and remove the tank or have lines you can’t get replaced in time and have to go to work. You wouldn’t be the first person to use a 5 gallon jerry can tied down in the bed with 2 rubber fuel lines (one supply and one return) going straight to the ip and from return after ip meets injector returns back to the can. Just make sure the hoses seal off fairly well from road dirt in the can and both hoses go to the bottom of the can and it is PERFECTLY clean. Those boat fuel cans work good. A friend once used a 10 gallon one for a month while rebuilding his entire system waiting for new parts. They have 1 pickup tube but had to drill an undersized hole to force the return line in to the bottom and have it not come out.
Appreciate it @Will L. Gonna tackle some of this today. I have a Delco lift pump under warranty so had AutoZone order a new one. Will have it tomorrow.. honestly not sure if it's bad or not I change it frequently..but with the electrical problems I don't know if it's always running right or not..I've got a in line fuel filter I'm going to pipe in just before the lift pump. Not sure if it's exactly what y'all intend but gotta be better than the sock that can collapse which I'm gonna take out today. Kinda lucky, P.o. cut a hole in the bed to get to tank so easy access...pissed me off at first when I saw it (bed liner in truck when I bought it so I didn't know it was there). But now I'm kinda grateful..lol.. bed liner went to the dump..
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
we need pictures! lol
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Hole in the bed is a great move imo. You just need to finish the mod. Take a sawsall to another bed from a junkyard to make the cover plate and your there. The military made a kit for doing it to hmmwvs. 
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Just put the screw into the lower rib so it doesn’t get in the way of sliding anything over it. You could do threaded insersts, but really just Self tapper screws will do.
jrsavoie
Recruit
Stainless self tappers in the rust belt
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Oh yeah... rust... I forget that stuff exists.
jrsavoie
Recruit
Oil it up. That seems to have bought us a lot of time and miles in the rust belt