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Best air filter set up on 6.5

Stoney

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Just to be clear....road draft= tube from top of pass side valve cover that runs down out the bottom of the truck..correct?? I'd love a better turbo just don't know how I'd come up with the cash...there over a grand arnt they?? I considered cutting out the door trap and muffler to give better flow...(I think there the originals). That 3inch pipe if I'm not mistaken..
 

Stoney

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Define lots?? No clue how to tell if blew the turbo seal...mainly cause I don't know what it is lol
 

Stoney

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That reminds me..what fuel aditive y'all use?? Been using Lucas...but here in upstate NY it's been getting down in the single digits teens. So I've just been putting Howes anti gel in it...is it safe to use both St same time??
 

Will L.

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Imo, you can keep running the filter you have now. Bulding a box that gets cold air instead of hot air from around the engine helps with power too.

On the cdr, you can run the hose down, but as mentioned it can cause oil seals to fail and create oil leaks. Like you, I dont like the idea of oil getting sucked into the turbo. I bought a Provent 200. It is an oil catch can, there are others out there and there is a diy thread on here for one low cost. I suggest you do a bit of reading about them before buying one. Cdr doesn’t cost you any power. If you have to add more than 1 qt of oil every 3,000 miles and it isn’t leaking on the street- the catch can might ease that up.

Yes, unfortunately a better turbo is the best improvement for power and a grand is kind of a good deal. A 4” exhaust helps even with factory turbo.

Getting a wicked wheel into your existing turbo will give it a little more umff, and is only couple hundred dollars. Also a homemade or bought turbo master. Some people think it is worth it, Imo save up for the better turbo.

A better tune can help you too, and so would wmi and or an inner cooler.

If you do a youtube video of it idling with the fill cap off and show fairly close of it, post the link here. We can tell you how bad blowby is. No need for anything above it to try catching oil mist- if will be visible.

Unfortunately, number 1 is pay to play when it comes to power. And doing so on an engine with that many miles is risky. Folks here aren’t saying you can’t do whatever ya want, just trying to give a heads up things can go wrong.
 

Stoney

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Appreciate the advise...Ill do the video tomorrow...I thought about fabricating a spiral tube off the CdR kind of like a moon shine still withe catch can off bottom of one of the loops...( Grandpa taught me well) lol...oil should fall into catch can ..(gotta love gravity) no matter what I got a good deal on the truck..only paid 2800 for it ..as I said earlier it was a old man's and his son didn't want it so he just threw it on Craigslist to get it out of the way.. I bought it five minutes after it posted.. awesome timing..since I'm going to cut the exhaust anyhow I might just run a 4in from in front of the trap to the back of the cab then come out right in front of the passenger side rear wheels...but that might be kinda loud..have to try and see...BTW. What is intercooler?
 

ak diesel driver

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intercooler is basically a radiator for the intake air to cool it down. You can buy a different PCM with better programming for more power. If you shop around you can actually get a complete 4" exhaust pretty cheap
 

Will L.

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Do yourself a favor and spend lots of hours reading on the forum. The spiral tube is a thought tried before, that doesn’t work well. Remember a still needs a creek of ice cold water to cool and condense the product. A tank with a baffle and coalesce filter is what works best. Then you can have the vacuuming hose hooked to the tank to keep from damaging seals and to help get rid of the crankcase pressure that fights power production.
https://m.youtube.com/results?search_query=provent+200+catch+can
You dont have to have the drain to Pan hose. You could just drain into a can and dump back in oil fill occasionally.

If you jump in making changes, without reading and learning, it will only cost you more money and time.
Bring up things you find that promise power or other gains. There is a lot of B.S. things for sale. Many things like lift pumps that normally sell for $35 with a relabel and sold as
High perf for $120. Or parts like injectors claiming 40 or more hp gains, that cant do anything if you don’t already have thousands in upgrades.

Imo, start with some monitoring items to see if you are loosing any power you should have.

A $5 hose& coamps from any hardware store. 6” long piece of 1/4” diameter clear tubing, and 2 new screw style clamps for it. Replace the ip return line with it. This is so you can observe if there are any bubbles flowing in the fuel through the ip. Diesel fuel lines get small “leaks” but because of the LP and ip, instead of leaking out fuel, it sucks in air causing loss in power, rough running, hard start, and wont even run. I doubt you have that problem, because you have none of the complaints. But having it on there is so cheap and easy to do, it’s best on day 1 before any issues can start.

Next I would get a fuel pressure gauge that you can see while driving. You should tee it in as close to the ip inlet as possible. If it is a dial/ needle gauge, get one that maxes around 25 psi. You should have 9-14 psi. Look into feed the beast mod- enlarging the 5/16 hose to 3/8 from filter to ip. Proper flow and pressure makes a noticeable difference climbing hills and towing. Also, low fuel pressure wears out the expensive ip quickly. Very cheap insurance.

Then consider things like boost and egt gauges. Your going to be adding boost and fuel to get more power. Too much will damage the engine, possibly beyond repair. You need to see it’s health before you hammer it.
 

FellowTraveler

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Only needs the vacuum if your worried about seals slobbering. I've never replaced a CDR, there's not much in them to go wrong If it gets really gunked up you can clean it. I tore one apart to see what is in it, and there's not much to it, a diaphram and a spring. I tested every chemical in my shop on it and couldn't hurt the diaphram. there is a vent hole on the back side you should avoid getting stuff into.
Several people have run what they call a road draft tube (no CDR and a hose down under the vehicle) won't pass emission testing tho.
I can't imagine the filter and piping giving you much if any HP increase
As a side note; that vent hole is tapped for the HMMWV fording kit when engaged (switched) it applies a slight pressure to the drive-train components which in turn prevents water ingress into all vented components.
 

FellowTraveler

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And I thought these smelled bad on the outside! Modern EPA oil for DPF diesels, you can't hardly get anything else, stinks especially after an oil change. We don't have an intercooler that oil would insulate so it really doesn't hurt to leave the CDR in place. I am considering putting a CDR on my road draft tube 2003 Cummins due to CJ4 oil stink at a stop light intercooler be dammed.
I like the Provent setup however; an angled cut tube welded into the down pipe then plumb the road drift tube into IMO it would pull pretty damn hard on any crankcase pressure and keep the intake tubing and CAC/IC from getting coated.....I've been considering this for the Cummins.

Then there are those who swear that the FTE spiral core resonator when placed just after the down-pipe creates a massive vacuum that helps pull the exhaust out and to the tail pipe, I suspect tapping just after this device would be even better for pulling crankcase pressure and fumes.
 
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