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ATT and KOJO tune for my 97

Glad to hear it ran so nice with this unplanned modification.

You have now shown how much better the ATT works with the opened up exhaust. And how EGTs are impacted by your truck configuration versus others with different configuration, and how conclusive results are hard to draw from one truck's results. Exhaust upgrade beyond 3" straight pipe will also help, as the length of pipe increases backpressure, even if there is no restriction in that pipe. Bending it over the axle increases backpressure over just having the extra length. thats why a full 4" system helps.

I will say, if I cannot spool my ATT to 20psi I get disappointed :) My EGTs are also very low despite that much fuel input, using twin Aeroturbine mufflers, shortened pipe to before the axle and use of 5" pipe after x-members.
 
Terry, have you updated your air filter too? I have the SSD type and am ordering an Amsoil nanofiber and relocating the battery to put it there and block the fanwash at a minimum. The SSD type gets dirty really fast when sucking as much air as I boost, and although it was an improvement over my stock rectangle box, its not cutting it for over 15psi.
 
.......it was an improvement over my stock rectangle box, its not cutting it for over 15psi.
anything is better than the old square filter/intake

You don't think the round 97+ air filter/housing will work as good as the fake CAI just hanging off the air intake?
 
Ok, I finally got to finish reading the ENTIRE thread. Got delayed by the switch over to the new server. What I would like to know is how will the ATT work with heaths HP4 towing a 6,000 lb trailer. I rarely ever tow more than 3,000 miles year so don't know if it is worth buying the ATT if I need to see Bill Heath about a new ecm.
 
Ok, I finally got to finish reading the ENTIRE thread. Got delayed by the switch over to the new server. What I would like to know is how will the ATT work with heaths HP4 towing a 6,000 lb trailer. I rarely ever tow more than 3,000 miles year so don't know if it is worth buying the ATT if I need to see Bill Heath about a new ecm.

You should be good with your current tune Ed. The ATT helped out my Westers tune.
 
Ok, I finally got to finish reading the ENTIRE thread. Got delayed by the switch over to the new server. What I would like to know is how will the ATT work with heaths HP4 towing a 6,000 lb trailer. I rarely ever tow more than 3,000 miles year so don't know if it is worth buying the ATT if I need to see Bill Heath about a new ecm.

It works fine even with stock program just not as well, I ran HP4 with mine at 1st and it ran very well with that, the current ATT tunes coming out are refined to match the ATT characteristics better than ones put into the HP4 set to the GM turbo with TM.

That said shoot Bill a message he's added some refinements to HP4 that may make it worth your while to upgrade even if just keeping a GM turbo in play, my early vintage HP4 did not have the automatic TCC lock up & "other features" built into the program, my current tune does now and it's a very nice feature.

IIRC so long as you did not buy a Heath tune from somebody else that parted with their 6.5 he's very reasonable on a reprogram charge to existing customers, & case by case he'll deal with guy that has a Heath program acquired elsewhere, I just went through this with a friend needing help.

As a FYI on programs/PCMs bought "used but good" you gotta be careful with that the neighbor that was having problems with his 6.5 bought a Heath reflash from a guy in FL (see above comment on case by case) that originally came from AK when Bill tweaked it, it was off of a 99 4X4 3:73 burb, we were trying to make it work in a 98 4x2 dually with 4:10, for 2 years it hasn't worked right, partly because wrong programming.

As for my own swap experiences, I sent some cores to Bill a while back that I exchanged for some re-tune work bartering, tried them in my truck to make sure they were viable core 1st; they didn't work so well either they did start the truck, but driveability suffered with the mis-match.

Didn't mean to digress there Ed but I've seen several ebay sales of used but good PCMs and needed to throw out if it works you got lucky IIRC there are about 60 variations to the coreload on PCMs then add in truck specifics it's really incumbent for your tuner of choice to know the VIN to set up properly plug & play off of another vehicle is a "crap shoot" my neighbor paid 2x for his once 'at discount" and again paid some more to get it matched to his truck.

Ans to your OP Yes your HP4 will work with the ATT
 
No problems there Tim, IIRC ED drove right to Heaths for the ecm and more.
 
Ok, I finally got to finish reading the ENTIRE thread. Got delayed by the switch over to the new server. What I would like to know is how will the ATT work with heaths HP4 towing a 6,000 lb trailer. I rarely ever tow more than 3,000 miles year so don't know if it is worth buying the ATT if I need to see Bill Heath about a new ecm.

Just do it!
 
No problems there Tim, IIRC ED drove right to Heaths for the ecm and more.

I sort of remembered that as well Leo from past years so my note wasn't directed at Ed

My FYI was for others reading that bought "used but good" programs off ebay be it Heath, Kennedy, Wester, SSD or wherever that to get full potential you need to VIN match program to truck
 
From a lower down pure towing perspective is the ATT and appropriate tune, really substantially better than the GM8 turbomaster and heath tune as Ed has in his sig.

Point being is it in all reality worth the extra dough and hassle etc. My guess is that his truck works well as it is?

Sure I have been in Tim's truck empty and with the RPM's up it packs a punch etc, just wondering if in a case like Ed's if there is a point where you are spending money for little gain from a practicality standpoint?

Cheers
Nobby
 
Over the GMx, YES, its much better when loaded. Alternatively you can find new cheap knockoff HX-40s to try out, but no quality control there and no bolt on kit.

The comparison when running empty doesn't do it justice, unless youre sitting at 3500rpm doing 120+ mph. I have done these comparisons, and the larger turbo is by far superior. Most people dont do the 120mph comparison, but when towing its awesome too. If youre only pulling a 4k lb lawnmowing trailer around town might not be necessary. But a 6-10k lb travel camper thing that acts as sail too, you would want a larger turbo.
 
I did drive down to Yakima Washington, It's only 200 miles and Bill personally installed the ECM as well as gave me a free T/M since I had my home made version on it. Right now I have my turbo listed on craigslist for 350.00 including the T/M. Maybe someone will want to upgrade their gm-4. I did write the ad to say that if they put a deposit on my turbo then once the ATT arrives then we would complete the sale:thumbsup:. One further question I have is are people shortening their intake tube from the stock turbo. or is it a direct fit. Ed
 
You cut the stock upper intake plenum back about 6". A silicone hose is provided with the ATT but I and some others have used a couple hump silicone couplers and a piece of 2.5" pipe to connect them. Otherwise you can also find long 4 ply silicone hoses that would be more durable and smoother on the inside, but cost a little bit more.
 
Pictures of mine in post 67 and throughout this thread. It works equally well with a GM or ATT.
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/sh...her-project-or-two-and-finally-the-ATT./page5
The one 90 degree elbow is off a Cummins set up and it flares to match the Peninsular intake's 3" dia. opening. I purchased it from Diesel Depot, GA and it is manufactured with an 1/8 NPT opening on the top edge.

I was driving through Ellensburg and Bill retuned my GLE program to better suit the ATT, which is why I call it the GL4+.
 
so I see, seems to be 3 different hose setups. me thinks I prefer version 2.
turbo6.jpg

IMG_5433_grande.jpg

turbo4.jpg
 
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