• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

95 Yukon Rebuild Thread

Lift pump powered up with Leroy Diesel harness. Works great - especially the manual switch. Collected almost 2 quarts out of the top of the fuel manager before I got all the air out of the system. Would have been a real pain without the manual switch on the harness.
 
Unless I missed it, have seen attention given to all but the IP. Consider doing the 2K RPM test when the motor is warm (idle, slow increase to 2K, hold for a couple seconds, slow decrease to idle, repeat 10 times); if the RPM's do not match the throttle position, want to run-way, or results are inconsistent from each cycle, the IP is probably questionable.
 
Hate to say it, but I was thinking same as Jay. If it does not do well I the test, pour in he 2 stroke oil and it can extend the run time until a new ip is easier to do.
 
Installed a new accelerator pedal assembly this morning. I tried the 2K test, but I couldn't get a slow increase from idle to about 1,100-1,200 rpm no matter how gentle with the foot. Tried using just finger tips and the same thing I had a brand new accelerator assembly in the '94 (less than 2 weeks old) so I put it in. Big difference. Even with my size 15 foot I could get a slow increase from idle to 2K. Did a few tests and didn't notice anything unusual, then took a quick test drive. We'll see what happens on the drive to work tonight, and I'll do the 10 full tests tomorrow morning.
 
Had a pleasant Eau Du Diesel smell from under the hood after the drive home from work. Fuel dripping off bottom of Fuel Manager. At least I'm a little ahead of the game on this one. Bought a kit From Leroy's Diesel along with the Walbro pump. Pulled the Fuel Manager replaced all the O-rings. Ran the truck about 15 minutes, everything nice and dry. After lunch checked it again.... !%#*&!! fuel dripping again.

Pulled Fuel Manager out again and took a close look at everything. Looked like there was some fuel coming out of the grommet around the wiring pigtail on the heater. Couldn't use heater from the '94 - insulation worn and exposed wires on the pigtail. Luckily, the Fuel Manager I got from the Ferminator had a heater in it. Swapped that one in.

Drove to Easter with the family checked when we got home - everything dry. After a quick run to the hardware store this morning - fuel on the bottom of the Fuel Manager again. Took a short cut and re-used the fuel line to the injector and drain after trimming back the ends. I'm going to go ahead and pull the intake in the morning when I get home and replace the fuel lines and put in the non-egr intake manifold.

Is it me, or is the o-ring for the fuel heater on the wrong side of the housing. Pressurized fuel is on the inside of the housing, but the o-ring in captured on the top and INSIDE by the housing and the flat plate of the heater on the bottom. Won't fuel pressure on the o-ring from between the housing and flat plate of the heater tend to push the o-ring out instead of compressing it and making a tighter seal?
 
Any pics of how you installed it? I haven't had one in front of me for some time and can't remember how it looks.
 
Pulled the intake, replaced the fuel line and drain line, and installed the non-egr intake. The amount of oily sludge coating the inside of the egr manifold was shocking. I'm glad I'm not going to have that going into the engine anymore.

Intake manifold gaskets were from NAPA. They listed the same part number for egr and non-egr engines. The gaskets are ported for egr, and no metal inserts to block off the port.

On the test drive, finally got a code that applies to the lack of boost - wastegate solenoid fault. Swapped out the wastegate solenoid from the vin F '94, and had boost on the way into work tonight.
010.JPG
 
Zip ties are for the heater hose. Hard pipe from thermostat housing that's supposed to run along the head to the heater is missing. Zip ties are holding heater hose off turbo housing until I can pull the hard pipe off the '94.
 
This weekend was going to be a water pump upgrade to HO one. Started by flushing out the system. Engine up to temp and drained from radiator drain plug - bad idea. My '94 had a hole just below the drain that worked perfect - no hole with the Yukon Getting the plug out and not burning your fingers with hot coolant not possible, and what a mess. Good thing I had a big catch pan. Filled with distilled water and brought it up to tempo and drained again - this time from the lower radiator hose at the reservoir hose connection. Pulled heater return hose from the radiator and ran an extension into the catch pan and garden hose into reservoir and started flushing....and flushing.....and flushing.....

UH OH - I think I have a problem. 65 gallons later, I still didn't have clear water coming out. Started out with what looked like river flood water. Eventually drain started to clear up, but never got completely clear. Ran out of time and buckets/bottles. Put 2 gallons of coolant + a bottle of Red Line Water Wetter and topped it off with distilled water.

No leaks and temps looked good. Test drive up and down the highway and everything okay until I looked under the hood. Coolant from using the drain + grease/oil from underneath and I've got a nice oily coolant mess over the firewall and everything else. Aaargh!

Any suggestions on how to get the system clean before I put in the new water pump and hoses? Burped the system a few times when I filled in by squeezing the upper radiator hose, and you can definitely see cloudiness in the reservoir.

The pic with the lid off one of the buckets is AFTER it set all night and settled. The folks at the recycling center didn't really believe me when I told them I wasn't from a commercial shop.
003.JPG002.JPG
 
I have not tried it but was told it works.

Fill with distilled water and Calgon water softener and run it for about an hour. It is supposed to removed a lot of the rust and scale. Do at your own risk.;)
 
Depending on what type of coolant you use is what to flush it with. Thoroflush is a pretty good one. If you had any dexcool in it consider doing a cycle of water, thoroflush, water, then vinegar.

CLR mixture after water flush runs clear works well also.
 
It had dexcool before I started flushing. After all the flushing went with green Sierra, and that's what's in it right now + water wetter and distilled. I'll do a distilled cycle after I drain the current mix and see if I can track down some Thoroflush. What kind of dosage with vinegar?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top