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95 Yukon Rebuild Thread

Use a hammer and a punch and knock a hole in the oil filter to drain it out before removal. Saves some of the mess. You are committed after putting a hole in the filter.

I don't know why you pulled the driveshaft as this isn't normal to change oil filters. Maybe the body lift? Normally you have to snake the new filter in, but, nothing too complex.
 
Do yourself a *HUGE* favor: drop the money on a remote oil filter kit, or better yet a dual remote filter kit.

The Burb's first two filter changes were just as nasty and painful as you went through. Actually, the first was worse as I had to wait for filter pliers to arrive and the Burb sat on ramps for a week; I sill have that filter as a reminder.

Now I never have to live that experience again and get filtration down to 2 microns which has already saved me. Only downside to the remote kit was that I had to buy an extra hose as my mount location was further than the length of hose that came with the kit.

If you are interested, PM me and I will go back through my invoices to find all the parts numbers.
 
I tried for about 30 minutes to find a way to get the filter in, it just would fit. Best I could get with rotating the driveshaft was about 1/16" -1/8" to tight. In fact, once I unbolted the du-joint, I used my spare filter. I didn't trust myself to get all of the grime and contaminants off the filter I was trying to squeeze in. The truck definitely needs a good degrease and pressure wash underneath.

I really like the remote filter idea - like warwagon said "that's an damn good idea" I'm going to try to send JayTheCPA a PM - this is my first PM so lets see if I get it right.

This is why I really like this site - for those non-members browsing this site I highly recommend you join this site. I'm a new member and there is a lot of good information here, and the members here are good, really good.
 
Changed my mind, rather than answer via PM, will make this for everybody to benefit.

Here are the AMSOIL parts:

BMK23-EA Dual Remote Mounting Kit
BK296-EA Spin On Adapter
EAO26-EA Absolute Efficiency Oil Filter
EABP100-EA Absolute Efficiency By-Pass Filter

Make sure to buy the spin on adapter and filters (as listed above) as they do *not* come with the generic kit (BMK23-EA) per the picture on AMSOIL's site.

In addition (and as mentioned earlier), I had to buy extra hydraulic hose as my kit was mounted well back from the motor. Do not remember the hose's specs, so if you need some, just give AMSOIL a call. Got the extra hose from a local Parker / Colliflower store and the nice rep talked me into buying a protective sleeve (that thing is tough) to put the hoses through and minimize damage from chafing.

Had the local shop do the work and they kept the 90* filter elbow. Not sure that this elbow is still necessary with the remote kit, but I decided to leave it alone.
 
I always loosened mine with the wrench from underneath and then unthreaded it and removed the filter through the wheel well. Then start the threads from the same vantage point and tighten fully from underneath.
 
NVW said:
Never had to remove the shaft either, it is tight though.
Click to expand...
I guess coming from a background of working on FWD cars and such, I didn't find it at all difficult, or even tight or tough to get to. Try doing plugs in a DODGE minivan with the 3.3L engine and no lift, now thats TIGHT(and if it's hot you get BURNED BAD!)!
 
Finished replacing all the vacuum lines starting at the riser hose off the vacuum pump and 100 miles since the repair. DTC 32,33,78 faults are history, and there is a definite seat of the pants improvement when cruising down the highway. Imagine that, actually getting some boost out of the turbocharger makes a turbo diesel run better............

Two gauges on order and one of them is the Autometer 0-15 printed to say "BOOST" Looking forward to getting it installed so I can see what the boost is like while driving. I'll post a picture of the gauge when it arrives.
 
Post a pic when it's mounted. Changing the oil every 3K I must admit the 4x4 filter isn't fun and always a mess. The extra oil hose is a concern to me, what's the temp rating on it?
 
Remote oil filter is on the list, and a bypass filter seems like a good idea. Thanks for the help and advice!

Still have a high flow water pump and fan to install, Leroy's Diesel walbro pump and harness, fuel pressure and boost pressure gauges, VSS buffer jumpers changed to match oversized tires, and VIN S to F conversion. Almost forgot, upper and lower radiator hoses with the water pump, heater hose from engine to firewall (regular heater hose is installed and its not doing to well with the heat,

I still have a pesky fishbite that shows up every once in a while at highway speeds.
 
Brand new optic sensor filter from the local GM dealership has already been installed

Boost gauge just arrived from Autometer with the custom face. This is an Autometer Z-Series gauge013.JPG
 
Dont mount that in the cab :) its says to mount outside vehicle only. Must have a PMD inside it? :)
 
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jrsavoie said:
I do not bother replacing optic sensor filter harnesses anymore. I have just been taking them out of the system and plugging directly into the IP
Click to expand...
It's main purpose was to filter out static for the AM radio reception. GM only used them for 94 and 95, and by 96 realized it wasn't needed and left it out.
 
Pretty sharp eye Burning Oil. The warning is an oops on my part. The guts of the gauge are a simple mechanical pressure gauge, but the standard product was intended to be a fuel pressure gauge. The warning is so people don't bring a fuel line inside a vehicle, and I think the rep I talked to at Autometer told me fuel in the cab was also NHRA rules violation.

When I placed the order, I forgot to have them delete the warning in addition to changing the label. I was kind of happy pretending the warning wasn't there and ignoring it, but now .........

First, the custom shop made the gauge exactly like I ordered. Then, diligent members of this forum do there best to protect me from myself. Man, I'm starting to think dumb and ignorant, BUT happy wasn't all that bad.
 
Kind of makes sense about the optic filter. Every wear part and problem area has always been easy to get the parts. The local NAPA usually has them on the shelf, and if they don't, it always a shuttle away with same day to the local store. Even the PMD resistor was on the shelf, and when the accelerator position sensor went out on the '94, they had one of those on the shelf.

When I went looking for the filter, they couldn't find anything on it - not a clue. The local GM truck dealer, who has a fleet guy in parts that's pretty good with 6.5's didn't now what I was talking about. He had to make calls to 3 other dealerships before he could track down a part number.

Putting the new filter in did improve the fishbite, but didn't eliminate the problem. That could just as easily be clean contacts - I did clean up the old connectors before I put the new filter in place.
 
Mileage update: First tank after I bought the Yukon 13.02 MPG. Last fill up 14.08. Only had a couple trips to work with the vacuum system repaired and the turbo providing boost, so I'm expecting even better results next week.

The highway to work has a couple overpasses that qualify as a hill down here in central Florida. Previously, at 70 mph cruise, the Yukon down shifted every time going both directions. With new injectors and air box restrions removed, it only downshifted west bound (the steep side. With vacuum system fixed - no down shifts at all.

Pulled the FFM out of the '94. I plan on doing the Feed The Beast mod this week, and then install it in the Yukon. Leroy's Diesel Walbro lift pump, relay wiring harness, and pre filter will go in at the same time. Decided to go with -AN fittings and hose.

Boost gauge install (the one with the ugly warning label :() didn't go so well. Fitting kit from Autometer was the wrong on. The gauge has an -AN fitting and the kit was for a NPT fitting.

Questions For Members:

Has anyone found a replacement for the water in fuel drain valve located at the thermostat housing? Mine is leaking and I had to cap the line off. I also want to install a similar valve on the FFM to make bleeding easier. with the cool fitting from Leroy's Diesel.

I'm quickly approaching the vin S to vin F conversion now that I've got necessary maintenance done and everything working correctly. One big question I have about the conversion is-What about the ABS brake system?. The '94 HD donor doesn't have ABS and the Yukon does.

A BIG THANKS TO ALL THE MEMBERS THAT HAVE BEEN FOLLOWING THIS PROJECT - I'M SURE THIS IS A PRETTY BORING PROJECT COMPARED TO THE OTHER REALLY COOL PROJECTS ON THIS SITE.

THANKS FOR STICKING WITH ME ON THIS - YOUR HELP AND ASSISTANCE IS GREATLY APPRECIATED !!!
 
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