'95 Engine build

[SnowDrift]

Months isn't going to work for me. I need years or decades. I have several feet of Tygon that I can use if needed at some point, as long as it doesn't get brittle after sitting on the shelf for long periods of time.

I think the loop would still get hot with heat soak from the engine at shutdown. Regardless, I replaced the Tygon with regular line that I won't need to worry about for a long time. I thought about the flared tube idea, but it's just another potential leak point and something else to rub the paint in the valley. Maybe if I route on top of the intake runners and secure with fasteners?

No more yellow line. Still insulated the same way with the silicone tube.

Here is a close-up.

 

[SnowDrift]

Front pump seal replaced. Just seems like a good idea since the torque convertor has been hanging there since last year and I'll never be closer - just took a few minutes anyhow.

 

[Twisted Steel Performance]

Make sure you hear 3 clicks when you put the converter back.

 

[SnowDrift]

There were distinct "clunks" when I slipped it on the shaft - no less than 3. When all the way in the distance from the mounting bolts on the torque convertor to the bell housing face was about 1/4" greater than the distance from the mounting surface on the flywheel to the bell housing. That said, when the torque convertor bolted up, it slid toward the engine about 1/4".

 

[SnowDrift]

Would anyone have a guess where these two eyelets should end up? I assume they're grounds, but the eyelets are too small to use on the manifold or block-off plate studs. I can't find a photo that shows them from before the old engine was pulled.

 

[dbrannon79]

what colors are the wires under the covering?

 

[MrMarty51]

Would anyone have a guess where these two eyelets should end up? I assume they're grounds, but the eyelets are too small to use on the manifold or block-off plate studs. I can't find a photo that shows them from before the old engine was pulled.
View attachment 84988

On My truck, there is a stud sticks out of the firewall that a bracket with the wires connector for the hood light attaches to.
One of those wires could be a ground wire that attaches to that stud then another ground wire from the hood was attached to that.
But be sure to thoroughly check all options before hooking any of those to a ground source.

 

[SnowDrift]

One is black and one is black with white stripe. I'm assuming both grounds, as one had about 3" of the sheathing worn through. No wires were damaged and it had been injected with preservative(grease off the original engine), so all shiny copper. I've wrapped it back up and will plan to ground to one of the studs from the bell housing.

 

[SnowDrift]

I found photos of the grounds that were in question. I had to stretch the holes to get them to fit over the studs, but they're home now.

 

[SnowDrift]

Trying to find bolt sizes and which go where in here - just for future reference:

Need more bolt sizes

I went to use the bolts from my original engine in my new one and realized the Optimizer has metric threads in it. In particular, can someone tell me bolt sizes for the following (or part numbers if available): 1) starter support bracket 2) motor mounts 3) starter bolts

www.thetruckstop.us

Trying to identify a bracket in here:

Need help identifying a bracket for intake

This was in a bag of hardware I had labeled for the intake manifold, but I can't identify the bracket or what it holds. Any ideas?

www.thetruckstop.us

 

[SnowDrift]

This is what I ended up with on the bolts at the crossover tube. I'll wait on installing the bracket for the oil supply tube so I get it in the right place.

 

[DieselAmateur]

Looks like you may want to swap the stud and bolt on the passenger side of the tstat crossover. In Glagulator's picture it looks like the bracket that holds the turbo oil feed line is bolted to the valve cover side/ outer side of the tstat as opposed to where it is now on the valley side

Engine is looking sweet, what color did you use for the intake and front brackets? I remember you did some high temp thing with the intake somewhere in this thread...

 

[SnowDrift]

In case anyone is wondering the bracket that holds the injector lines and this heat shield can be installed after the injectors and intake are in place, but I wouldn't recommend it. If you're sending parts to your builder, just be sure to send the correct ones. It was quite a chore to get it in position but two of us were able to manage without too many scuffs. It can be slipped in from the front if someone holds the injection lines up out of the way.

 

[SnowDrift]

Good call on the bolts - I can explain...

...but I won't.

Here is the stuff I used.

 

[Husker6.5]

Bill Hirsch Company has been making high quality coatings for decades. They've been used on 98+ point concours shown restored antique and classic vehicles at places like Pebble Beach and Hershey.

 

[SnowDrift]

What am I grounding here?

 

[jrsavoie]

What am I grounding here?
View attachment 85514

I don't recall ever having a ground there

 

[Paveltolz]

Wire loom mounting point (SRS etc.)? There’s a couple of looms attached at that location on my K1500. “Your results may vary.”

 

[Husker6.5]

I guess that's why taking pictures of everything before/during disassembly is so important to an efficient reassembly - knowing what goes where and how - especially if it's several months/year(s) between coming out and going back in.

 

[Glagulator]

The battery to starter cable is clamped there.