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'95 Engine build

I'm just posting this here so it's all tied together at some point. This is about O-ringing the block.
 
This guy has a setup for replacing his CDR, I assume, which uses the factory passenger side valve cover. I've been on the fence about what to do and seeing this makes it seem as if I can keep the factory cover and if I want to change from the tuna can to a different setup, it could be simpler.
1679148060000.png

As an update, I picked up my engine from the originally scheduled builder a few days back. Rather than badmouth the guy, I'll chalk it up to "miscommunication".

By this past Monday it had arrived in South Carolina in a crate of parts, ready for it's next (probably last) caretaker.
 
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This guy has a setup for replacing his CDR, I assume, which uses the factory passenger side valve cover. I've been on the fence about what to do and seeing this makes it seem as if I can keep the factory cover and if I want to change from the tuna can to a different setup, it could be simpler.
View attachment 80170

As an update, I picked up my engine from the originally scheduled builder a few days back. Rather than badmouth the guy, I'll chalk it up to "miscommunication".

By this past Monday it had arrived in South Carolina in a crate of parts, ready for it's next (probably last) caretaker.
What kind of a venting system does He have there, doesnt look to be a pro-vent.
 
Build update.... @SnowDrift

Block is at the machine shop in line for splayed caps, decking, final hot tank, expected turn around 2-3 weeks.

Pistons are back from cnc machining, I spent 6 hrs Saturday balancing pistons & rods after another round of cleaning.

I have balanced countless 6.x assemblies and I can say without a doubt this was the most out of balanced assembly I have ever seen...

From light to heavy is as follows...

rod small end - 13gr
rod big end - 23gr
pistons - 12gr

After several hours ALL the parts are balanced to a tolerance of .02gr

Crank is loaded with the gear, reluctor, and stock balancer & pulley is bolted on and crank & flexplate will be at the machine shop tomorrow.

Those that don't know I balance everything so my shop doesn't spend so much time doing what I am anal about, I take a balance sheet and they balance the crank per my specs and hold a tolerance I request.

ryan bal spec.jpg
 
I thought we had sand in the blast cabinet all these years, but it turns out it was glass. I was able to blast the lower intake and waterneck crossover pipe to prep for paint. Injector lines are next.View attachment 80577
I have always liked the bare aluminum look on engines and whatnot. if you can get your hands on some dip to prevent corrosion and protect it I would do that. when I worked at my grandmother's shop where they rebuild all kinds of small aircraft accessories, they would always dip the aluminum parts in some kind of water based solution for this. the one they had would turn it to a golden color. I am sure there's some that leaves the bare color around. I have no idea what chemical it was they used.
 
I like the bare aluminum also, but after some age, it doesn't look so good. If I knew of a reputable clear for aluminum, I might try it. This Eastwood product is out until late May.
I wonder if this joint would have something.

 
A little coating bloviating from personal experience:
Over the years I have tried powder coating, ceramic coating and anodizing the intakes.
Anodizing was done out of naivety. I had a machined aluminum part that came out fantastic but, not so much for the raw, cast aluminum of the intakes. The company rep cautioned me the raw aluminum would come out ‘a little darker’ than the natural aluminum. No kidding. Very VERY dark grey. Even he was surprised and I wasn’t charged. Good prep for powder coating though.

Ceramic coating doesn’t take a beating but withstands higher temps. Still, it certainly didn’t live up to advertising on the exhaust manifolds. I did have the bottom of a lower intake ceramic coated to better deal with engine valley heat although the other lower intake’s powder coating on the underside has done fine too.

Powder coating of the upper and lower intakes worked great as I did a lot of prep work with cleaners, brushes and media blasting. The coating cleans up easily for those bling moments and can handle the lower intake temperatures are within the tolerances powder coatings can deal with. I tried doing a clear powder coat over a sliver once but the clear pealed off in short order. Either a problem with the procedure or I got scammed (I had the whole unit redone by another coated who’s work has been honestly represented and fairly priced IMO.
A lessons learned…remember to remove the powder coating from the bolt holes so you have a good path to ground for the AIT sensor.
 
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