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94 Chevy K2500 6.5 Multiple Codes Present

It is normal for there to be an air bubble in the clear hose, bubble will most likely always be there when the engine is not running.
Is what You will be looking for is air bubbles rushing through the clear hose while the engine is fired up and running.
Do You know which fittings the clear hose is suppose to fit to ?
 
Yeah, that is polyvinyl. Your ok for diesel with ethanol in it. It will darken and harden over time. The perfectly clear stuff from hardware stores is pvc so it is easier to see through and the ethanol doesn’t eat it either but will harden quicker.

I didn’t read the entire link you posted, but saw where one person mentions “supposed to” use it pre ip not post. I say he/she never worked on diesels at a gm dealer like some of us did.
GM’s training, taken from Stanandyne is to 1st add the return line because it is quick and if there is air intrusion anywhere, it will show up there. If it shows up a quick inspection for cracking or loose connections, or rusty metal line happens. Then if nothing obvious, then remove and reinstall fuel filter. After that you install clear between the filter and ip. If bubbles not present before ip but present after, the ip is faulty and needs resealing.

His incorrect theory that only before ip is blown out of the water from this issue. Imagine ip sucking air, only trying pre ip and then ruling out air intrusion. Congrats, you will spend hours chasing non existent problems before replacing an ip that could have had a $10 gasket bad or just needing to tighten something.

The whole color of fuel thing is people not knowing fuel from different refineries. How it’s processed determines its color. Clear, white, yellow, blue, green all no biggie and no one is better than the other.

Glad you found part number- that was useful.

The line you are replacing with clear is out top front of ip next to the fuel shut off solenoid. Factory piece is about 4” to 5” in an upside down ‘U’ shape.
 
Thank You Will for posting the proper fuel hose position. I could not remember which one it is and I did not wanna go out in the rain to find out. LOL
 
I put on the clear piece of tubing. No bubbles. Noticed my glowplug relay connector was loose so I plugged it back in. Still getting intermittent code 36 and 29 is back. Still getting white smoke on startup but it's not constant white smoke all the time. Only for a few seconds or if I rev it a few times then it turns black.
 

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The glowplug relay seems pretty cheap and clicks really loud now when truck is turned on before starting. Just one click but its loud.
 
IdDieselGuy said:
The glowplug relay seems pretty cheap and clicks really loud now when truck is turned on before starting. Just one click but its loud.
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Main thing is if it is actually sending voltage to the GPs, can be tested with a probe/test light or a VOM at one of the GPs terminal ends.
White smoke on startup is normal as long as it clears up as the combustion chambers warms up.
 
I wouldn't say white smoke is normal but it's not unusual. I bet the advance piston in the IP is sticky. Black smoke is lack of air, dirty air filter, turbo not putting out properly, etc.
 
ak diesel driver said:
I wouldn't say white smoke is normal but it's not unusual. I bet the advance piston in the IP is sticky. Black smoke is lack of air, dirty air filter, turbo not putting out properly, etc.
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Guess I should clarify My statement slightly. LOL
Mine truck pufs out a fair cloud of white smoke on first startup of the morning when the temps has cooled down some, like now. Warm or Hot fireup, engine at or near operating temps, there is no smoke at all.
 
Mine while smoke at startup even when the truck is warmed and has been driven recently. Even when it's hot outside. It does it pretty much everytime now. Before it used to only do it after it would sit overnight or for several hours. And before that it didnt even do it at all.
 
No I have no idea. I'm now getting a constant code 36. Lots of whiteish blue smoke at startup. I can clear the codes but 36 comes back instantly. Pretty much at the point of giving up. Dont have alot of money to spend on fixing it either. It's making a weird clicking and whoosh sound now randomly while idling. All 3 6.5s I've owned have made this same noise except usually they will still out after making the noise. This one hasnt...yet. sounds like it's coming from somewhere in the front.
 
Whether or not the previous owner changed the injectors or glowplugs I have no clue. Would not at all be surprised if he never did.
 
IdDieselGuy said:
Whether or not the previous owner changed the injectors or glowplugs I have no clue. Would not at all be surprised if he never did.
Click to expand...
I was in the same dilemma with My truck so I exchanged injectors and installed new GPs and while I was at it, new timing chain and sprockets. Old units had very little stretch so I think the engine in My truck had been replaced fairly recently.
 
What brand or glowplugs did you use? I was thinking of going with the Bosch Duratherms because of how cold it gets here in Idaho.
 
IdDieselGuy said:
What brand or glowplugs did you use? I was thinking of going with the Bosch Duratherms because of how cold it gets here in Idaho.
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I went with the A/C Delco 60G, they were available locally.
I know some in here use the Bosch, just do not remember what the numbers are on the preferred units.
 
I recommend against bosch. I used to recomend either them or ac delco 60g, but there has been a descent amount of manufacturing errors in bosch recently.
Several people had the connection tabs breaking off. I WISH that had been my problem.

The electrode broke off and ruined a piston. I was amazingly lucky it didn’t score the cylinder or damage an head, or go through the turbo and eat it also.

I called bosch, spoke to several people and basically they won’t even look into anything. One person said they know their is a higher complaint level since they changed something in the mfr process but they aren’t changing back.

Stay away from bosch now.
Only plug is the AC Delco 60g.

I tried to attach a photo of toasted piston, but attach button isn’t working right at the moment.
 
IdDieselGuy said:
No I have no idea. I'm now getting a constant code 36. Lots of whiteish blue smoke at startup. I can clear the codes but 36 comes back instantly. Pretty much at the point of giving up. Dont have alot of money to spend on fixing it either. It's making a weird clicking and whoosh sound now randomly while idling. All 3 6.5s I've owned have made this same noise except usually they will still out after making the noise. This one hasnt...yet. sounds like it's coming from somewhere in the front.
Click to expand...

DTC 29 - Glow Plug Relay Fault
DTC 36 - Injection Pulse Width Error (Time Long)

You purchased a 25 year old vehicle for $750. Have you spent $2,000 on repairs yet? The $2,000 is a ballpark number most used vehicles need in repairs before the owner shitcans it for something else. Maybe you got a good deal that doesn't need $2,000.00 in repairs. And then that would be the other time sucking bastard: electrical problems.

"if I rev it a few times then it turns black."
The black smoke on rev-up is the turbo not caught up. Unless you have snap test emissions: KNOCK IT OFF! Revving the engine up without a load is a good way to turn things into hot oily scrap metal. Either you have a plugged air filter or you are giving it too much throttle revving up. I digress as you have other problems going from white to black smoke.

As I mentioned: Does the "Glow Plug" light come on? Yes/No/Intermittent?

If the light is "ON" the "DUMB" relay is getting the "on" signal from the ECM and providing power to the glow plugs (GP). The ECM "sense" and GP lamp are on the GP side of the harness: GP's have power = Lamp on and ECM sees GP relay "on". No volts to ECM from glow plug side of relay = Code 36. Note the ECM doesn't give a damn if every single glow plug is burned out "open". All it tests for is +12 from the GP side of the relay, period. Loose connector not powering the relay would do it. Bad contacts in the relay will do it. Bad wire to ECM will do it, but, white smoke is a clue you may not have working glow plugs.

"Lots of whiteish blue smoke at startup."

Generally the fire is out in a hole or two. Air in the fuel system, bad glow plug system, not enough RPM cranking, pissing worn injectors, injectors allowing air into the lines when off, loss of compression... You can add throttle to bring the RPM up so the other cylinders light off. This is not floor it, but, 1/2 throttle at most. The back of your sun visor has cold weather starting instructions you can use to help. Assume it's cold because: you have some problems.

DTC 36 - Injection Pulse Width Error (Time Long)

Page 12 of the 500 PDF linked below says why/when it sets. Other not printed ideas but common failures: air in fuel, PMD failure, PMD extension cable problems, filter harness on optical sensor, grounds, IP failure, lack of lube in fuel.

DTC's, Cal resistor range, DS 6.5, DB2, 5.7L, info online from Stanadyne!

Looking for the EID assembly elastomer insert drive info and what year it affected of the DB2 pumps to clarify a post of mine for "Ratman" I came across this goldmine. CMY: The Google search I used. :agreed: 1st result: Oldsmobile 1985 doc referencing EID governor here...
www.thetruckstop.us
 
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