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94 Chevy K2500 6.5 Multiple Codes Present

I tried the turbo master and was just not all that impressed with it so I bought a new Dorman vacuum pump and repaired what I had. system now works real nice and absolutely no black smoke whatsoever, even on a heavy pull with a loaded trailer.
 
If you have a good one, definitely put it in. If you are fighting for extra power- then using the manual waste gate to get it can help some. By the sound of what you have going on, I would start with installing what you have.

Long term, far better turbos are available and do the vac pump delete at that time.
 
First check the vacuum that the installed pump is obtaining. A vacuum gauge is a must when diagnosing the waste gate system on these trucks. I have a hand vac pump and a gauge, most times when switching between hand pump and gauge, I usually just use the gauge on the hand pump.
Last time I diagnosed the vac system on the truck I used the gauge on the hand pump and Td it to the vacuum pump right at the solenoid, then Td the other hose for the regular gauge. Made the hoses long enough to lock the gauges under the windshield wiper so that I could see them from the drivers seat, took the truck for a drive and discovered that after the pump got warmed up good it would fail to pull proper vacuum. replaced the pump and all has been fine since then.
By hooking a t to both sides of the solenoid I could verify that the pump was performing as it should and also the vac boost solenoid at the same time. LOL
 
Okay yeah I really wanna get more power. Just didn't feel like spending the $145 for the Turbomaster. Alot of people make their own but I'm not really mechanically inclined in that way so itd be difficult for me to do that. I'm gonna have to get a vacuum gauge and check my vacuum.
 
I checked @RockAutoLLC for vacuum gauge for testing. But all they have is dash mounted gauges, and one listed from Lisle- but the number doesn’t exist on Lisle’s website and rockauto has no pic of what it is.

Harbor freight has a really descent gauge for low cost.

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Check their in store flyer for the 20% off anything coupon too.
 
IdDieselGuy said:
She started up normally this morning, little bit of smoke but normal start. But when I started it, check engine light came on and stayed on for code 36. I'm assuming it'll probably go away after the truck is warmed up? After I replaced the relay yesterday, all I was getting was the normal code 12 all day yesterday. Any thoughts?
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Is the code 36 Gone now with the new relay?
 
The code 36 was gone all day Saturday after I replaced the relay but it appeared again yesterday morning on startup and again today and back to the usual rough starting. Intermittent ses on and off with code 36, etc.
 
View attachment 58393
IdDieselGuy said:
The code 36 was gone all day Saturday after I replaced the relay but it appeared again yesterday morning on startup and again today and back to the usual rough starting. Intermittent ses on and off with code 36, etc.
Click to expand...

My Bad! I was confused over codes. :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: Is the code 29 gone? Any other codes aside of 36?

DTC 29 - Glow Plug Relay Fault
DTC 36 - Injection Pulse Width Error (Time Long)

GP System Check1.jpg
 
You're good! Code 29 is gone. 36 is still present. By the way, did you get my message about the k47 airbox and other parts?
 
Started it up a little bit ago when I left work and rough start the gradually turned normal. Puffs of white smoke here and there after starting then nothing. Check engine light on solid for a good 2 minutes, then the usual on and off intermittently or at certain speeds or upon acceleration. Same code 36. Blowing lots of black smoke. My truck is getting a lot of fuel somehow, pretty high flow rate which I'm thinking is at least part of the cause of the black smoke. I replaced the wastegate solenoid and MAP/Boost sensor and it's not pulling codes for either of those but I am getting a slight lack of power upon acceleration at times with certain speeds or just in general. What could be causing this? I'm completely stumped!
 
Okay how do I do the test on those? I did meet another 6.5 owner locally this weekend in Boise at the junkyard of all places and he told me to try the optical sensor as well. From what I've read, it's somewhat of a difficult replacement and requires retiming the engine? Another 6.5 diesel owner I met recently in the area told me it could possibly be my crank position sensor. He said he was pulling a bunch of codes at once and one of them was code 36 and he had an intermittent check engine light. Replaced his crank sensor and it went away along with most of the codes including 36.
 
As far as the test goes..... to test the OS unplug the CPS and then try to start it. It will take extended cranking to the point you might think it isn't going to start, but that does vary. When it starts it will be in limp mode running solely on the OS. It should run smoothly without stumbling or any kind of a hiccup. If it won't start then the OS is toast, if it stumbles or any kind of a hiccup it needs replacing.
To test the CPS you do the same test but unplug the OS instead of the CPS. Same procedures as above
 
So i tried something I read about on another forum from a thread several years ago. Someone was having the same exact issue I am having. One person suggested to try 2 stroke oil in the fuel because there was a possible lack of lubrication within the IP and 2 stroke oil apparently helps with that. Well, I tried some in the fuel and the code is still there, no constant or intermittent ses light. It came on twice very quickly both times and then went off, basically just flashed and went away. The code is still there though but it seemed to be blowing a little bit less black smoke and seemed to have a little more get up and go. I am also missing the small filter screen in the FFM so I am going to replace that. Gonna check the pmd and stuff still just to make sure.
 
So I'm thinking its PMD related. Read another thread from awhile back on another forum and the guy had the exact same issues and code that I an having and his was pmd related. Found another thread where the guy had the same issues and also pmd related due to an Ebay pmd or harness. So I'm gonna replace the pmd with a good brand pmd and go from there. I believe mine is a flight systems from huckstorf diesel.
 
I installed the grey Stanadyne with the harness adapter, the resistor can be trimmed to fit from the old PMD.
Have not had any issues at all in over two or three years. I still do carry a spare new Dorman though.
 
Imo, order a new lifetime warranty pmd with the heatsink and harness from Leroy. Install and drive on it. Keep your old one as the spare for testing. If the new one fails, send it in for warranty and drive on the old one. New one comes in, swap to it and once again use your old as the spare.
Having a ds4 6.5 without a spare pmd is like not having a spare tire imo.

After you place the order & while waiting a day or two shipping- go do the os/cps test that was described above. It’s not hard. Takes no tools except maybe a pocket screwdriver to disconnect the clips. In 30 -40 minutes you’ll know if both parts are ok.
 
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