92 completely dead

[probst55]

went to start, glow plug circuit lit up for about 2 seconds then nothing. no crank, no headlights taillights, etc. Both batteries completely charged, replaced 2 years ago. Is there a main fuse somewhere i'm missing. Where to start

 

[Will L.]

Start at battery connections. Load test batteries. If you haven’t replaced the crappy side mount cables for top mount yet, check the little puck that connects battery cables to each other. Check connections at starter and ground cable.

 

[probst55]

Start at battery connections. Load test batteries. If you haven’t replaced the crappy side mount cables for top mount yet, check the little puck that connects battery cables to each other. Check connections at starter and ground cable.

will do, thanks, went through the grounds, what general area would the fusible link be in if thats the problem

 

[ak diesel driver]

On a 92 there should be a wire that goes from the battery to the starter and then up to a power distribution block on the firewall kinda above the starter. I'd be checking that out.

 

[jrsavoie]

On a 92 there should be a wire that goes from the battery to the starter and then up to a power distribution block on the firewall kinda above the starter. I'd be checking that out.

And eventually replacing it with a bigger wire or augmenting it

 

[probst55]

On a 92 there should be a wire that goes from the battery to the starter and then up to a power distribution block on the firewall kinda above the starter. I'd be checking that out.

I'll be checking that also,thanks

 

[probst55]

On a 92 there should be a wire that goes from the battery to the starter and then up to a power distribution block on the firewall kinda above the starter. I'd be checking that out.

found it. It was the fusible link to the distribution block, replaced it and all is well. Thanks for your help

 

[ak diesel driver]

On my 94 I went directly from the battery to that distribution block with a 4 gauge wire. Battery voltage gauge is much more accurate now too. No fusible link either

 

[probst55]

On my 94 I went directly from the battery to that distribution block with a 4 gauge wire. Battery voltage gauge is much more accurate now too. No fusible link either

so is the wiring harness protected from an over amperage situation, or is it even needed?

 

[jrsavoie]

On my 94 I went directly from the battery to that distribution block with a 4 gauge wire. Battery voltage gauge is much more accurate now too. No fusible link either

On my 94 I went directly from the battery to that distribution block with a 4 gauge wire. Battery voltage gauge is much more accurate now too. No fusible link either

I did similar, but I have a breaker right off the battery.

I augmented the original wire. With the heavier wire.

I used this breaker

Amazon.com

 

[dbrannon79]

You can always install a 100 amp breaker similar to the ones used on car stereo amps. something that is re-settable and will mount on the firewall next to the distro block.

I second the notion to run a heavier gauge wire direct from the battery also. GM is known for using wires that are barley adequate. GM bean counters saving their cost anywhere they can!

 

[dbrannon79]

as far as it being protected. yes and no... every circuit in the cab is protected by a fuse, but some of the leads coming off that block go direct to other things like the alternator and whatnot. on most rigs of this age, it's always recommended to replace the battery cables with heavy cables to the starter and for the grounds too. including the wire off the back of the alternator. most from factory used between a 2 and 4 awg cables off the battery, going with 1/0 cable is the way to go with the 4 awg for the distro block and alternator. running a diesel with dual batteries, ultimately you need to switch to use top post and get away from the side post batteries. when I replaced cables, I had regular copper lugs soldered on both ends, you can run the side post batts until they die, then when going to top post, just get the bronze / copper marine terminals to connect. stay away from the lead terminals, they corrode and fail in a short time.

 

[jrsavoie]

This is what I used.

as far as it being protected. yes and no... every circuit in the cab is protected by a fuse, but some of the leads coming off that block go direct to other things like the alternator and whatnot. on most rigs of this age, it's always recommended to replace the battery cables with heavy cables to the starter and for the grounds too. including the wire off the back of the alternator. most from factory used between a 2 and 4 awg cables off the battery, going with 1/0 cable is the way to go with the 4 awg for the distro block and alternator. running a diesel with dual batteries, ultimately you need to switch to use top post and get away from the side post batteries. when I replaced cables, I had regular copper lugs soldered on both ends, you can run the side post batts until they die, then when going to top post, just get the bronze / copper marine terminals to connect. stay away from the lead terminals, they corrode and fail in a short time.

I've never had issues with the side posts after using the Allen screw for the battrry bolt upgrade

I always buy dual post. Group 34/78 DT

 

[dbrannon79]

the dual post is a good option too! using both on each battery is good for better connections!

 

[dbrannon79]

the main issue with side posts is corrosion that gets in there and you can't see it especially with the factory GM cables that have the boot over them. also with the little spacer that allows double cables. dis-similar metals cause a chemical reaction, that happens with happens as well with residential and commercial wiring too! always use dielectric grease to seal from the environment!

 

[Paveltolz]

Dielectric grease is good but, I prefer Noalox. Noalox works similarly in that it provides a good weather seal but, it is a contact / connectivity promoter and an Anti-Oxidant; improving the connection between the metal surfaces vs dielectric which prohibits connectivity (which is why you can put it across the positive and negative terminals on bulbs…bulb grease). That said, don’t use Noalox on your bulbs or in two or more weather packed connections. Bad things may happen.

Been using it on battery and ground connections for years. Drive on the salt flats, winter etc. and have never had any corrosion on the connections.

 

[MrMarty51]

Dielectric grease is good but, I prefer Noalox. Noalox works similarly in that it provides a good weather seal but, it is a contact / connectivity promoter and an Anti-Oxidant; improving the connection between the metal surfaces vs dielectric which prohibits connectivity (which is why you can put it across the positive and negative terminals on bulbs…bulb grease). That said, don’t use Noalox on your bulbs or in two or more weather packed connections. Bad things may happen.

Been using it on battery and ground connections for years. Drive on the salt flats, winter etc. and have never had any corrosion on the connections.

View attachment 95634

How about this stuff ? ? ? ?

It is like a fine/thin grease. Made for Truk-Lite, makers of many wehicle lighting products.
I was introduced into the use of this stuff when still working for the Montana DOT.

 

[ak diesel driver]

Probably bulb grease AKA dielectric grease